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Old 03-26-2013, 08:50 PM   #1
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A few issues, stage 3 tune..

So the car basically runs properly about 50 % of the pulls i do. It hits 15 psi in second gear and i have seen 18-20psi in fourth gear, but now my issue it it still has some miss fire and sometimes on a pull the car feels sluggish like power is not there and the car backs off, earlier i downshifted into second from third and was at about 4000 rpm i put it down i saw about 18 psi in second and it scared me lol..

Stuff i have changed / done

Vaccume lines / IC lines checked
3.5 bar fpr
bcp7es gaped to .9
pumping 91
3 inch downpipe cat deleted
fuel filter 1.5 years ago

Stuff i have been recommended to check

fuel pressure at wot..
replace the cone filter for a new one?
clean maf sensor?



Any idea would help thank you!

Last edited by Saab95Aero; 03-26-2013 at 08:59 PM.
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Old 03-27-2013, 03:52 AM   #2
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"misfire" is a pretty broad statement. usally when i here the word misfire, i go to the ignition system.

first thing to determan is which cylinder, if not all of them are misfiring. the first thing do when diagnosing these issues is try and figure out if it is a single cylinder, or multi cylinder issue, both issues have different sets of problems.
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Old 03-27-2013, 02:08 PM   #3
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Quote:
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"misfire" is a pretty broad statement. usally when i here the word misfire, i go to the ignition system.

first thing to determan is which cylinder, if not all of them are misfiring. the first thing do when diagnosing these issues is try and figure out if it is a single cylinder, or multi cylinder issue, both issues have different sets of problems.
okay so i basically mean i can hear a backfire while going WOT once in a while my open sid gets a crap load of MiFi's no cel or flashing cel
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Old 03-27-2013, 03:56 PM   #4
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What is .9 for a gap? I gap my plugs to .035-.038"
Buy some normal copper/nickle plugs and gap them tighter and give it another go.
be sure to slather the plug tops in dielectric grease when you do.

just... be careful. These engines CANNOT handle boost and misfires.
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Old 03-27-2013, 06:34 PM   #5
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What is .9 for a gap? I gap my plugs to .035-.038"
Buy some normal copper/nickle plugs and gap them tighter and give it another go.
be sure to slather the plug tops in dielectric grease when you do.

just... be careful. These engines CANNOT handle boost and misfires.
.9mm = 0.0354331'' i did not put the grease onto the dic but could that really be an issue?

What do you mean by normal plugs? they are NGK 5030's literally put them in 3 days ago..

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ngk-5030

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Old 03-27-2013, 07:42 PM   #6
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Is the tune meant to have a 3.5 BAR fuel pressure regulator?
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Old 03-27-2013, 07:59 PM   #7
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Is the tune meant to have a 3.5 BAR fuel pressure regulator?

yes john told me to get one
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Old 03-27-2013, 09:01 PM   #8
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Are the plugs BCPR7ES? or without the R
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Old 03-28-2013, 02:55 AM   #9
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Are the plugs BCPR7ES? or without the R
VERY good call, his summit link specifically says "non-resistor", he bought the BCP7ES's

You need to run the "R" plugs as the direct ignition system requires resistor plugs!
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Old 03-28-2013, 08:58 AM   #10
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p/n is NGK 6282. Gap to 1.0mm

I say put no miles on the car until the correct plugs get in.
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Old 03-28-2013, 09:23 AM   #11
 
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p/n is NGK 6282. Gap to 1.0mm

I say put no miles on the car until the correct plugs get in.
THIS. Plugs are seriously important on tuned engines, to the point of considering checking gaps and/or changing them every few oil changes.

Saab95Aero, if the plugs don't help, have a Saab tech with a Tech II test the DIC.

And then make sweet, sweet love to your T7 ECU for saving your engine.
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Old 03-28-2013, 01:51 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by mike saunders View Post
THIS. Plugs are seriously important on tuned engines, to the point of considering checking gaps and/or changing them every few oil changes.

Saab95Aero, if the plugs don't help, have a Saab tech with a Tech II test the DIC.

And then make sweet, sweet love to your T7 ECU for saving your engine.
Fuck i might have bought the wrong plugs :S i will double check tomorrow, i have my old plugs that are the BCPR7E-11 ( NGK number 1267 ) but they still did not work correctly after i re gapped them... i will throw my old ones in ( 2 months old ) for a temp fix until i get a hold of the correct model can someone post the exact model i need? thank you.

SO my main question now what is the difference between the

NGK 1267 and the NGK 6282


Thank you guys!


I got my friend to order a set of 6282 just now so i will be waiting and going to drop these in soon, they came out cheaper then the other ones. How could i have missed typing the r :s

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Old 03-29-2013, 05:29 AM   #13
 
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Ignore the model numbers, only look for the specific plug number: BCPR7ES-11

You need the resistor plugs with the standard electrode depth. Each of those numbers and letters is important. This will tell you the breakdown. http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/docs/te...bols_plugs.pdf
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Old 03-29-2013, 06:49 AM   #14
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Buy NGK Nickel Spark Plug (BCPR7ES-11) 1095 at Advance Auto Parts

1095

Buy NGK Nickel Spark Plug (BCPR7ES) 6282 at Advance Auto Parts

6282

Both are the same plug, the -11 are gapped to .044", and will need to be re-gapped for sure. Advance usually has the -11 in-stock locally since they're a Honda/Nissan plug.
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Old 03-29-2013, 06:56 AM   #15
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Also, your 1267 part # is for the V-power plugs with the V-cut electrode end.
I'm like 90% sure that the V-power plugs are a big part of what did my 9-5 in last time. I'm pretty sure that T7 does NOT like them, and cannot detect knock appropriately with them. Not beng able to detect knock correctly on an aggressive tune will be the end of your moder.

ONLY buy the 2 plugs I linked to above. your engine will be happiest with them and a .035-.038" Gap
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Old 03-29-2013, 07:02 AM   #16
 
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Buy NGK Nickel Spark Plug (BCPR7ES-11) 1095 at Advance Auto Parts

1095

Buy NGK Nickel Spark Plug (BCPR7ES) 6282 at Advance Auto Parts

6282

Both are the same plug, the -11 are gapped to .044", and will need to be re-gapped for sure. Advance usually has the -11 in-stock locally since they're a Honda/Nissan plug.
They're basically the same plug except for the tip. One is solid and the other has the removable tip. They only differ in an extremely small way that has no impact on our cars....http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/TB-...20Bulletin.pdf

And double ditto on the -11s being the ones to get because they're super easy to find. I've only found the -9s once (!) in five years of looking.
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Old 03-29-2013, 08:51 AM   #17
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okay guys thanks a lot waiting for these plugs to come in now
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Old 04-02-2013, 01:28 PM   #18
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got the plugs in they all came with the gap of .86 just barley Not being able to fit so what should the gap be?


So i put the plugs in drove about 80km's tonight on the ride home ( 40 kms ) i had about 600 MiFi's by the end of the night, The car drives better i still have a random miss fire one or twice while giving it a wot pull in third.


This little event in the video still happens also when for example i try to give it a pull in fourth gear at like 3000~ rpm



any ideas? my shitty narrow band shows that its steady for most of the pull but then when the car hesitates its going into the lean portion.. a wide band is on the way but in the summer..

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Old 04-18-2013, 12:01 PM   #19
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For some reason its been getting worse i use to be able to hit 15 psi and then the car would lean out, now its at the point that if i was in fifth gear and i accelerated the car would just buck and miss fire.. i took out the ecu put the stock back in and it ran perfect hit 15 psi and running rich any ideas?

it does not seem like a fuel issue because with the stock tune i have no issue, could it be a maf?

Correct plugs have been put in the ones mentioned in this post also..
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Old 04-19-2013, 03:22 AM   #20
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checked the MAF? it might need replacing/cleaning.

sounds like you had several problems going on. Plugs were one of them and now fixed. the next part may be something else.
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