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Performance Modifications for the 9-5 This forum contains PERFORMANCE related Q&A's for the 9-5. This may also include suspension.

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Old 09-15-2010, 08:23 AM   #1
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Swapping engines-need advice...

Hey everyone- I'm a new owner of a MY00 Aero wagon that had it's number three rod poked through the block. I have ordered an engine out of a MY99 that has 96k on it supposedly. It has been suggested that I replace the oil cooler as the original probably has bearing fragments in it. I was wondering about this Godspeed 19 row cooler on ebay. Cheaper than OEM but will it be an improvement?

Also should I go ahead replace bearings in the motor while it is out regardless of condition? Any other suggestions without going to extreme measures of financial distress? Thanks for all input! Much appreciated!

Rob
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Old 09-15-2010, 08:49 AM   #2
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Hey everyone- I'm a new owner of a MY00 Aero wagon that had it's number three rod poked through the block. I have ordered an engine out of a MY99 that has 96k on it supposedly. It has been suggested that I replace the oil cooler as the original probably has bearing fragments in it. I was wondering about this Godspeed 19 row cooler on ebay. Cheaper than OEM but will it be an improvement?

Also should I go ahead replace bearings in the motor while it is out regardless of condition? Any other suggestions without going to extreme measures of financial distress? Thanks for all input! Much appreciated!

Rob
welcom to the link!!!

how would bearing fragments get into the oil cooler it comes after the filter.

I did not do that and had catastrophic engine failure from bearings as well.

Make sure you usea all our parts form the later model ( the manifolds etc ) You will ned t plug the mecaincal vacuum hole on the back to the head too as you won't need that.

Stop by the new member section and introduce yourself too
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Old 09-15-2010, 09:10 AM   #3
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welcom to the link!!!

Thanks! I really look forward to hangin'...


how would bearing fragments get into the oil cooler it comes after the filter.

I heard that it would circulate until the oil thermostat opens...

plug the mecaincal vacuum hole on the back to the head too as you won't need that. Really? I thought I would need to swap that over...

Stop by the new member section and introduce yourself too
Will Do!
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Old 09-15-2010, 12:39 PM   #4
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Will Do!
Other way around the oil goes into the filter all the time and then when the thermostat opens adds the coller
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Old 09-15-2010, 01:23 PM   #5
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That of course makes perfect sense. I'll flush it and see what comes out. The really big question is why this thing lost the bearing in the first place... The pick up screen was hardly blocked... I'll put up some pics later... But PCV#6 hadn't been done to it. I'm looking for clues... Like an episode of CSI.
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Old 09-15-2010, 01:42 PM   #6
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IF YOU DON'T FIND THE PICKUP SCREEN CLOGGED, start looking for other reasons that you had bearing failure, it would be a good idea to pull the main pulley and the oil pump cover and make sure the oil pump passages aren't blocked, that the oil pressure relief valve in the timing cover isn't gummed open, and take the oil filter housing apart and make sure that the spring valve in there for the filter isn't gummed open.
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Old 09-15-2010, 02:55 PM   #7
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Thanks for the ideas... This is an autopsy only. Since the block and cylinder are holed I am doing this purely for cause of death. I intend to salvage anything I can for a future build but a lot of this external stuff will go on the donor B235E I have coming on Tuesday. It has 96k on it. What would you suggest I replace on this donor engine before I install it? I only have about 500 dollars to put into it at this stage... I was thinking bearings oil pump and timing chain if it is near limit.... Thanks again jsssaab!
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Old 09-16-2010, 02:49 PM   #8
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Yeah bearings for sure, chain you can do by rolling one in so not to worry, I would do only what you really can;t do or are a total pain in car. You may want to do thrust bearings as well. Sometimes you can get way with them just by turning them ( or at least the first on ) around so that the new surface is against the block where the clutch will press on it all day.

If the donor block is all clean and was just running and oild you are pretty OK but you may want to re-ring it, but if you are doing that you might want to re-hone . You can do it yourself if you are daring, but if you see all kinds of hatch marks i would leave it alone. \\

Check the balance shaft sprokets they break teath and if the balance chain falls you will lose pressure and = fail.

ANd of couse gaskets and seals ( front and rear mains use only Gennuine Saab rear and front, the aftermarkets, even good ones, seal more forward - at least the rear main does) of the sealing surface. It just looks as though those other ones won;t do a good job, ( and I had one go that I had to replace after installing my engine too) Not worth the 10 buck savings...

Do teh oil pump kit and use the best housing you have, inspect it for wear, they tend to grind into the housing and caused loss of oil pressure. Also, the older oil pumps were siad to ahve bad ( and I have seen) tollerances, and the newer are much better ( again genuine saab

thant is about it, 500 in parts there ( without the chain) good luck
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Old 09-16-2010, 04:22 PM   #9
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I would also upgrade the PCV system much easier while you have access...if its a manual trans...how is the clutch ? If I had the engine out I would replace all the chain guides and check the tensioner...I just replaced my Cam cover guide today and it was like chewing gum when I pulled it out of the cam cover...check the turbo make sure there is no shaft play...like JS said, pretty much anything that will be a huge PITA to get to after the engine is installed...it will make life much better down the road.
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Old 09-16-2010, 07:41 PM   #10
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Good idea the guides are cheap enough might still make it under the 500...

Saab used ot sell a chain kit but I dontl then they do anymore it was like 250 for all the arts and the balance chain stuff ,great great deal that was ( I only bought one and am kicking myself.
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Old 09-16-2010, 07:52 PM   #11
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It looks like the 3rd cylinder ran lean... the plug is white the injector is a bit different looking as well... engine hardly sludged by standards I have seen much worse. the boot after the MAF sensor was folded underneath maybe air leaking in there? MAF is a little dirty... some of the other rod bearings were looking dull almost gray like funk sort of like graphite paste on one of them. oil passages all seem clear. maybe the PO just ran it out of oil. i didn't measure how much oil came out when i drained it...doh. but there seemed like a couple of quarts anyway. so now i worry about lean conditions in the future...

I'd like to pop some of those fancy pistons in the "new" engine. but that will pop my budget...

Last edited by raab saabz; 09-16-2010 at 07:55 PM. Reason: ID-10T error
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Old 09-16-2010, 07:57 PM   #12
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Good idea the guides are cheap enough might still make it under the 500...

Saab used ot sell a chain kit but I dontl then they do anymore it was like 250 for all the arts and the balance chain stuff ,great great deal that was ( I only bought one and am kicking myself.
Yeah I searched for a kit and couldn't find one... what about plugging the balance shafts on the b235???
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Old 09-17-2010, 03:17 AM   #13
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All the guides can be found here...this way you can buy what you need only

http://www.thesaabsite.com/95/95engi...components.htm

You can delete the balance shaft chain...but most people do this if they don't want to change the chain, guides etc because of access... if you have to pay someone to replace the timing chain and balance shaft chain it is around 1200 USD...which is very expensive for these cars...I would keep it and check the guides, chain etc...

Delete
http://www.genuinesaab.com/catalog/images/9139130u.jpg
Kit
http://www.partsforsaabs.com/product...oducts_id=2671

Last edited by cking1975; 09-17-2010 at 03:21 AM.
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Old 09-17-2010, 04:53 AM   #14
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Yeah I searched for a kit and couldn't find one... what about plugging the balance shafts on the b235???
Neo Brothers in teh UK has a kit still lsited on thier site. Its actually a pretty good price even with shipping and teh conversion factor but you will need to see if they have them

Yes as CK mentions people will cut the chain but if they break you will loose oil pressure if it fills up your pick up area in teh front of the motor.

I would not block it if I was donig it, ( unless I balanced the entire rotating assembly.) these motors are pretty vibraiton prone as it is and I wodl nto want to remove any attemopt to make it refined ( unles I was going all power no cruise.
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Old 09-17-2010, 06:41 AM   #15
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This is going to be a cruiser... If I had time and more money to throw at it at this point I would love to have it balanced, but I want to be driving it ASAP so I can see if there are any other issues.
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Old 10-14-2010, 04:28 PM   #16
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Man this is taking forever... I am nitpicking everything. It's been apart for 5 weeks...
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Old 10-24-2010, 12:12 PM   #17
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update

So now the block is at the machine shop getting a bath and hone, polished crank and etc. New rings and bearings coming. I'm paraNOID.

Is the fact that this MY99 block doesn't have the beefy pistons and the head doesn't have the nimonic valves like the 2000 aero it is replacing a concern? I want to be able to run the engine hard...
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Old 11-11-2010, 05:56 PM   #18
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99 2.3 B235 & 2000 aero had the same T7 pistons.

There was a rumour that very very early 99 9-5 base ( manufactured in 9 used left over 9000 rods & pistons (stronger & heavier) until they started receiving the 9-5 pistons. I never have received credible confirmation of this so take it with a grain of salt.
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Old 11-12-2010, 09:03 AM   #19
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No one's 9-5 had beefy pistons from the factory. They're all light weight, low friction jobbies, even the Aeros.
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