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Old 06-05-2010, 12:46 PM   #1
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Best Frankenstein Head Rebuild...???

I am in the process of rebuilding an extra head I have...

I am going with what John Williams suggested to me for a more robust head that can take a thrashing:

1995 9000 t5 head-will be pulling the int. and exh. valves and 16 new t5 guides will be used in a t7 head that will be freshly built by a trusted local machine shop using 7k+ capable Volvo springs.


The flying Dutch is talkin' about runnin' a 9k intake on a t5 head, so a t5 mani and a t5 head and then don't you have to go to t5 or Nira3+ in order to use the t5 cable operated throttle body???

ANy please educate me perhaps someone who has forgotten more about engine building than i will ever know will chime in.. John,Vigge???

I thought you had to... If not please tell me I am curious???

I just don't trust the head on there being as it had 100k miles and 50k was my driving,tuning,molestation of the car.With my current overheating issue,now is a good time to do a head job the right way no shortcuts....



I making a commitment to what way to build the head next week and open to any ideas, I have 1 complete t5 head, 2x sets of t5 cams, 2x t7& t5 manifolds off 94-98 9k/9-5, and a pile of t7 crappolla that gets bigger every day


I am fearful of having overheating issues and am going all out in case I freaked the head on the car now...

ANY IDEAS regarding a strong head ???


Cheers and Best Regards
Will Pressly
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Old 06-05-2010, 07:05 PM   #2
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YOu know I was thinking about the T5 valves but when I thoguht abot it you really dont need "stronger" vavles, you wnat thin ones to help flow. And what's the dif with "stronger" valves? If they hit a piston unless they are krytonite they are bent.

I would do the T7 R valves and Vovlo springs to keep em from floating.

The T7 Aero intake is pretty big no? don't know what you get form the t5?
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Old 06-05-2010, 07:45 PM   #3
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The T7 heads flow a fair amount more than T5 heads so you really shouldn't be looking to swap your heads for the T5 versions. The only thing listed that would help you is to install T5 cams but other than that, you are well set!
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Old 06-05-2010, 09:49 PM   #4
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More info if you would,

what is the rpm range you are aiming for?
what is the hp range you are aiming for?
How much are you willing to pay for the machining ect?
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Old 06-06-2010, 08:21 AM   #5
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What volvo do these sproings come out of?
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Old 06-07-2010, 01:20 PM   #6
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I have found a habit of listening to those who have offered wise advise in the past to me. I among others have had high EGT's ... I am shooting for pulls that begin at 36ish-7k=420whp Daily Driven (On most days) I am concerned more so about the melting of the exh valves...

t7 head shell t5 guides t5int&exh valves, super port JSP style:

http://saabnet.com/tsn/members/galle...=show&id=12635

http://saabnet.com/tsn/members/galle...=show&id=12695

http://saabnet.com/tsn/members/galle...=show&id=12696
...is pretty much what i'm aiming for

John (JZW) has suggested that I go this route... I have a habit of doing everything that man tells me and his wisdom hasn't been short of drops of gold in tuning knowledge

I propose this due to the creative mix going on across the pond with Dajazz's 9-5

I have found MANY t5 parts have been well suited to upgrade by reverting to t5 goodies...

Hell my 9-5 is just about a t6 by now
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Old 06-07-2010, 01:31 PM   #7
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Lekonna I think you know I will spend as little money as possible to get the desired result...

Not trying to break the bank either!

3600-7200rpm
Atleast 420whp


What are the advantages to going with a t5 head with t5 maniflange welded to t7 manifold like in DaJazz's Ride???!!????

Is that Air I hear flowing better in a t5 head???!!!???
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Old 06-07-2010, 01:32 PM   #8
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Boinngngnggn= springs

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Originally Posted by Tweek's Turbos View Post
What volvo do these sproings come out of?

Couldnt find out so I had to pay retail through GS
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Old 06-08-2010, 05:21 AM   #9
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So I thought it worked like this T7 heads flow better, The R head has the Sodium filled valves to handle high heat better, so you go T7 head, T5 Cams and R valves...

I too would like to know what the T5 head/T7 exhaust manifold gets you. My builder said he liked the flow on the T7 (and was not so impressed with my Cam doner T5 head)
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Old 06-08-2010, 08:24 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jssaab View Post
So I thought it worked like this T7 heads flow better, The R head has the Sodium filled valves to handle high heat better, so you go T7 head, T5 Cams and R valves...

I too would like to know what the T5 head/T7 exhaust manifold gets you. My builder said he liked the flow on the T7 (and was not so impressed with my Cam doner T5 head)
1) The R does not have sodium filled valves, they're Nimonic alloy valves. It's a very high nickel content, makes the valves extremely resilient to high temperatures.
2) The T7 manifold is going to be better than a T5 simply because it is a header design as opposed to a log.

As to why one would want T5 valves:
-T7 heads use thinner valve stems. This makes the valve lighter reducing momentum and friction which also allows a lighter spring to be used, reducing friction on the cams. The reason one would want T5 valves is if they opt for aggressive cams, like 276 or more. Cams like these require more aggressive valve springs to keep the valves under control, and these can be so strong as to break the stem.
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Old 06-08-2010, 01:47 PM   #11
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Quote:
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What volvo do these sproings come out of?
Quote:
Originally Posted by WPressly View Post
Couldnt find out so I had to pay retail through GS
i was told they off of the old 240's
(i had one towed out to a junkyard the day i was told which volvo they came out of)
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Old 06-09-2010, 09:44 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WPressly View Post
..........now is a good time to do a head job the right way no shortcuts....
Who is this??... I know it's not Will, I'll have to call him and let him know someone is using his user name...
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Old 06-09-2010, 01:41 PM   #13
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Ehhhhhhhhhhhhhhh......

Well were at $808 at the current number and that is with the quote from the head shop. and thats jsut with the quote #$....


We all know I have been cheap in the past and an extra $225 to wash and re-crosshatch the cyl. walls cost me another motor build...

I put a used head from goldwing on there and afer 500 miles it lets an intake valve go...

So trend is dont buy a used part from a junk yard and expect it to perform up to a stage 4+ to stage 7+ level...

To Quote John "Build it with the best parts available..."

Do it and Do it once!
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Old 06-10-2010, 09:32 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WPressly View Post

To Quote John "Build it with the best parts available..."

Do it and Do it once!
I hear ya, aftermarket Main seal cost me, bummer

Quote:
Originally Posted by Raven18940 View Post
1)


As to why one would want T5 valves:
-T7 heads use thinner valve stems. This makes the valve lighter reducing momentum and friction which also allows a lighter spring to be used, reducing friction on the cams. The reason one would want T5 valves is if they opt for aggressive cams, like 276 or more. Cams like these require more aggressive valve springs to keep the valves under control, and these can be so strong as to break the stem.
OK so T7 exhasut valves can take higher temps- good thing no matter what/how they made ( Will's concern) I don't think ( and the builder who did my head feels) that "stonger" valves are needed. It is "toughness" valves are more suceptable to heat than "breaking stems" due to stronger springs. Stronger srpings will keep them vavles from floating, if they flaot they will hit the piston, and nothing is gont to stop them from braking at that point.

So I really don't get this theory but keep trying...

Last edited by jssaab; 06-10-2010 at 09:42 AM.
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Old 06-10-2010, 03:30 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jssaab View Post
OK so T7 exhasut valves can take higher temps- good thing no matter what/how they made ( Will's concern) I don't think ( and the builder who did my head feels) that "stonger" valves are needed. It is "toughness" valves are more suceptable to heat than "breaking stems" due to stronger springs. Stronger srpings will keep them vavles from floating, if they flaot they will hit the piston, and nothing is gont to stop them from braking at that point.

So I really don't get this theory but keep trying...
Just FYI, everyone has this idea of floating valves rocketing off the cam and smashing into things. This rarely ever happens. What actually happens is the valve bounces on the seat with it closes. Still a great way to ruin valves and kill your power.
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