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Old 06-02-2010, 12:40 AM   #1
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Project 95 flying dutchman

hello,

will start right away with many updates and pictures.
just realized i registrated ones on this forum and now want to show what i have done so far. More like a project page. (hope its in the correct subforum)

Have a 95 2.3LPT 1998


changed powerflex front and rear



engine will be changed later but have to clean now the oilpan as the car was anyway up in the lifter

usual problem but not bad.


cleaning


few days later i start working on my donor engine, which comes from a 1994 9000 CSE 2.3L.


old shit goes out...


my dirty garage


(meanwhile some wax on wax off process :P )


while i was waiting for my new engine parts from PFS.

JE pistons not from there

new wheels when it finally became summer



Next new engine build up...

Last edited by dajazzz; 07-23-2010 at 05:51 AM.
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Old 06-02-2010, 01:52 AM   #2
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Engine build up

as i mentioned earlier the engine comes from a 9000 1994 2.3 CSE.



as you can see its a T5 block, because the balance shaft holes are a lot smaller.
The T7 block is about 8kgs heavier.


Some T5/T7 pictures if anybody is planning the same.

T7 exhaust side:


T5 exhaust side:


T7 inlet side:


T5 inlet side:


Later i found out that the oil pressure sensor had to be moved because in the T5 block it is located where the oil catch can is located in the T7.
This is no problem as there is a plug where you can mount it. Just open the plug and put the T7 oil pressure sensor in there.

new crank bearings


2.3 T5 crank in place (see what i forgot here?)


new generation T7 rods on oversized T7 JE pistons



measuring piston ring gap

which was in standard limits as in WIS

Painting the block


And here i have forgotten to remove the metal oil tube that you can see! This gave me a lot of problems later, and still it is not good....
For anybody doing the same, please remove the tube at this point.

so here you see wrong location of oil pressure sensor and that damn oil tube.
This because the oil fill tube of a T7 goes in to the block, and now there is no way to get the original tube in....


next difference in T5 and T7 i found was the oil tube that goes from block to oil filter housing. Please use the T5 one as the T7 wont fit in the block.


pistons go in



next is building up the timing chain and balance shafts.




I bought a new oilpump (T7). Please make sure you put plenty off oil in the pump when closing it up.



in the rear you see Vigge´s engine (guess he is also active on this forum?)


For the T7 oilpan to fit on a T5 block you need to remove the guiding pin!


ready (only 2 bolts in head because that will be put on the engine when the block is in the car later)

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Old 06-02-2010, 02:32 AM   #3
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engine goes out!

I took 1 week holiday to change the engine at a friends place who has a bigger garage. Space for 2 cars so parked it diagonally.


some pictures how all the hoses and vacuum lines are going (could be usefull )



euh,,,


head comes off with inlet mani


loosening all mounting bolts, gear leverage, wire harness away and lift off


Same day my new clutch arrived from racestuff.se (very fast shipment!)


Old 2.3LPT pressure plate and disk


New 95 AERO pressure plate and sinter disk. Clearly seen that aero pressure plate is bigger.


flywheel to engine


Connecting gearbox, (used a metal pipe to make sure the clutch disk is centered)



lifting


its a tight fit but if you do it slowly and your not alone its not that complicated to lower the engine from the top.














connecting gear leverage (alignment in 4th gear)


connect hydraulics for clutch


and here is the damn tube i forgot to take out. (here i actually realized it...


T7 gasket is used


The head is a ported T5 1994 with enem 9,6 cams


The injectors do not align correct yet, but later i will change the inlet manifold to a better one that fits correct on the T7. For temporarily use, a normal 2000 T7 mani is installed. As the 95s from 98 and 99 have the air flushed injectors and the 2 piece manifold shown here


little bit adjusting fuelrail. And with RC engineering 750cc fuel injectors


head goes on


connecting hoses with the help of the pictures i made earlier (on my pc)



Fully custom adjustable cam-gear sprockets.



i noticed there was a new rubber for the chain guard in the valve cover in the kit i ordered. (never know this was a flexible rubber as those become hard and stiff over time)


Closing up



NGK7´s at 1.1mm







then it became time to get the oil pressure up.



but after many starts with the fuel fuse off, it did not want to go up....
So i connected the fuel fuse and hope for best...

luckly everything went fine and it gave a steady 7 bar

ready.


more updates soon.

Last edited by dajazzz; 06-02-2010 at 02:38 AM.
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Old 06-02-2010, 03:13 AM   #4
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Next day i drive some 20kms and find out the fuel is leaking where the fuelrail connects to the 3rd injector.
So remove the fuel rail and put a new rail in there with a new o-ring on the injector.
I think the adjusted fuelrail did not provide enough pressure on the injectors so i got a 2000 T7 fuelrail and installed that. (There is different fuel rail in 98 and 99)

That solved the problem concerning the fuel leaking.
At the same time adjusted to a newer base software and adjusted the fuel mapping so it would idle nicely.

Finely going to home and sleep was the plan but my car decided different.
While driving in the rain i was thinking that my new tires are picking up a lot of water and spraying it behind the car, but when I opened the window i noticed it was a bit to much smoke. Same time PLING PLONG "fill coolant liquid".
Stop on the side and the whole car boiled and all the water went out. A lot of smoke.


called towing company, wait 1h.


pick up some cash (220€)

next day calling my insurance company and they will pay it back, without any own risk.

I found 1 hose that came loose from the waterline to the turbo.



and i was hoping it solved the problem. But.....
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Old 06-02-2010, 03:19 AM   #5
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when i drove yesterday home via the city center of Tampere (Finland)
Again, PLING PLONG, and a lot of smoke... DAMMIT!

Stopped on the side, looked at the hose that came of earlier, but that was still ok. But there was about 4L of water under the car...
As it was only 3km to home, filled up the car and drove home.

Let the car cool down and fill it up,

- start car with coolant cap open and stays open
- interior heating on max
- keep coolant canister full by filling it when it sinks.
- car was started at 45 degrees C and some air bubbles come up.
- warms up to 80 C and hose between radiator and engine starts to get warm
- warms up to around 97 C and a big fountain goes out from the coolant canister.
- resulting in an empty coolant system and this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NixCEaqLo9U

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Old 06-02-2010, 03:28 AM   #6
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then i realized that i had some problems with the temperature sensor that i had to install.

A T7 car has a M12 temperature sensor.
The head i use is a 1994 T5 version that has 1/8NPT.
So I had to use an adapter.



When connected it looks like this



Now i am thinking, because the probe of the sensor is not really in the water flow but in a adapter. This adapter is installed in the wall of the head. Of course the heads wall is not as warm as the actual water temp, so could it be that the water temperature is a lot more warmer than the car actually says it is? Causing the fans to switch on too late and boiling the whole system....

So thanks to my workplaces prototype department.... i got the adapter made shorter and now it looks like this:


I fear it wont solve the problem i have but its a try anyway.
Otherwise i will remove the head this weekend and change the gasket to a T5 one. This one should not have so much risk when the deck surface is a little bit corroded around the water channels....
as this is a picture how the surface looks like.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8tXqdSrL-is/S9...0/P1130012.JPG

The coolant liquid does not have any visual oil.
The oil stick does not have any yellow goo.
The car smells like coolant but i think this is because the water channels in the head that go to a T7 manifold, what is not optimal. (During a cold start some white smoke pops up)
Turbo problems i dont mind as i have a Holset HX40 Super waiting for this car.

If there are any others who have similar problems with pressure being build up in the system,,, Any feedback is very welcome at this stage.

Last edited by dajazzz; 06-02-2010 at 03:43 AM.
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Old 06-02-2010, 04:17 AM   #7
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Great write up and pics. Think you're on the right track with the head gasket, sure seems like you're getting engine compression in the cooling system.
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Old 06-02-2010, 04:33 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by seriks1 View Post
Great write up and pics. Think you're on the right track with the head gasket, sure seems like you're getting engine compression in the cooling system.
Thanks for your reply seriks1

So you dont think the engine is having cooling problems?
Im just wondering why it only happens why the engine is hot. Is it because the thermostate blocks the high pressure or something?

what would happen if i remove the thermostate and see what happens then????

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Old 06-02-2010, 04:51 AM   #9
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Wow! Welcome to the link! Also thanks for the write up and so many really good pictures! Looking forward to following your project!
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Old 06-02-2010, 08:07 AM   #10
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hmm i opend the valve cover. everything looked clean and nice there. but when i took the torque wrench at 70nm some off the bolts did not say "click". so they were not 70nm.....

I loosened the center bolt and applied the 60nm plus an the extra 90 degrees. Then to the lower center bolt and the same thing. And completed the round as is written in the WIS.
After i put the torque wrench on 100nm and "feel" if they click. All bolts give a firm click now.

So how can those bolts come loose after 100kms of driving already? is there any reason why those come loose? i mean like compression problems or????

Feedback very welcome at this point. Thanks.
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Old 06-02-2010, 09:15 AM   #11
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Did you re-use head bolts or use new? The new styles are stretch "one time use" bolts - which can be used twice safely....

45Ft/LBS - then 60Ft/LBS (I think) and then the 90* turn.
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Old 06-02-2010, 02:04 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dajazzz View Post
then i realized that i had some problems with the temperature sensor that i had to install.

A T7 car has a M12 temperature sensor.
The head i use is a 1994 T5 version that has 1/8NPT.
So I had to use an adapter.



When connected it looks like this



Now i am thinking, because the probe of the sensor is not really in the water flow but in a adapter. This adapter is installed in the wall of the head. Of course the heads wall is not as warm as the actual water temp, so could it be that the water temperature is a lot more warmer than the car actually says it is? Causing the fans to switch on too late and boiling the whole system....

So thanks to my workplaces prototype department.... i got the adapter made shorter and now it looks like this:


I fear it wont solve the problem i have but its a try anyway.
Otherwise i will remove the head this weekend and change the gasket to a T5 one. This one should not have so much risk when the deck surface is a little bit corroded around the water channels....
as this is a picture how the surface looks like.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8tXqdSrL-is/S9...0/P1130012.JPG

The coolant liquid does not have any visual oil.
The oil stick does not have any yellow goo.
The car smells like coolant but i think this is because the water channels in the head that go to a T7 manifold, what is not optimal. (During a cold start some white smoke pops up)
Turbo problems i dont mind as i have a Holset HX40 Super waiting for this car.

If there are any others who have similar problems with pressure being build up in the system,,, Any feedback is very welcome at this stage.
I was going to say, with t7 head on t5 motor, t5 head gasket must be used!

good luck,

John
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Old 06-02-2010, 02:35 PM   #13
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thought he used t5 head.... anyways are you sure you installed the thermostate correctly, you may not be bleeding the system fully if the bleeder on the thermostat is upside down
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Old 06-02-2010, 10:21 PM   #14
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I was going to say, with t7 head on t5 motor, t5 head gasket must be used!

good luck,

John
The motor is not with T5 internals, rods are original B235's and JE's for a B235.
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Old 06-03-2010, 05:11 AM   #15
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Wow! Greetings to my favorite Finland (land of the most sexy women in Europe)!! Welcome to the link buddy. Looks like you're in the right place. Great project and excellent writing. I hope you'll enjoy your car.
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Old 06-03-2010, 05:42 AM   #16
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There's just nothing to those t7 metal head gaskets. As pointed out, there's some pitting etc. around water jackets on the head, my feeling is that the gasket just can't seal around the imperfections. Basically I think you've got more of a sealing problem than a cooling problem, especially with the "fountain" effect you're seeing. I would try the t5 head gasket just because there's actually some meat to it and would be able to seal up the minor imperfections. You could plane the head, but depending how much comes off, you may have some interference issues using a t7 gasket anyway.
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Old 06-03-2010, 06:14 AM   #17
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Headbolts loosening up

I had a similiar problem after build number 2 of my motor....

Two headbolts became loose... i think 9 and 10 in the tightening order... It was because I did not oil the bolts before torquing them down... After I oiled them the tightened they have not loosened up on me- still looking at the ARP route though

I am confused are you running a t7 or a t5 head,

Vigge say 235 motor and JE's for a 235

So can you clarify what combo you have on your car???
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Old 06-03-2010, 06:59 AM   #18
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Any high output B2x5 should have the deck and head surfaced for the gasket to work.. Using the thick onld style 2x4 gasket is not the way to fix a pitted deck.

Also the JE pistons do not use the same ring gap as stock. Maybe the larger end of stock for some applications but thats a pretty big range.
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2.0 GOOSE 500whp + 8500rpm = 11.06 @125 E85
Viggen 439whp / 447tq 12.43 @114 on Gt2871.64, (Now 511whp Gt3076)
Nordic E85 9-3 SS Aero 320hp / 350ftlbs
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Old 06-03-2010, 07:16 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by WPressly View Post
I had a similiar problem after build number 2 of my motor....

Two headbolts became loose... i think 9 and 10 in the tightening order... It was because I did not oil the bolts before torquing them down... After I oiled them the tightened they have not loosened up on me- still looking at the ARP route though

I am confused are you running a t7 or a t5 head,

Vigge say 235 motor and JE's for a 235

So can you clarify what combo you have on your car???
Yes the block is a 1994 T5. decked and over-sized.
the head is a 1994 T5 Ported and well known working (vigge´s old head he had on his viggen) Cleaned and new valve / valve seals.

The pistons are JE T7 and the rods are also T7
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Old 06-03-2010, 07:21 AM   #20
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Yesteray i also checked the plugs. and made some more pics




Here i found that 70nm was on some bolts was loose


Car has driven 120kms now
plug #1


plug #2 (has some minor black area)


plug #3 (first i was thinking it was wet, but there is water in the plug hole)



plug #4


today i will do more inspection. and let you know,

Ps. thanks for the warm welcome and great feedback!

Last edited by dajazzz; 06-03-2010 at 07:32 AM.
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