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Old 05-25-2010, 06:45 AM   #1
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Question HELP...Well... here we go again.... HELP HELP

Radiator and heat issues led to a cracked radiator....

so in went a Alum. core rad that is 3x as thick

The lower hose has no kinks and flows well as well as the upper rad hose

I drove for a month with the new rad in and my cruising temps dropped from around 105 C to 112C down to 76 C to 86 C constantly always after huge new alum rad install

Last weekend I went down to help Moose put in the trans that would sheer 5th on the way to carlisle....

And dreadfully on the way home... at 80mph red triangle, batt light lit, 11.3v on volt meter.... NO SERP BELT!

So I went on cruising babying the temp gauge trying to get home.... she began to get warm 118-119C temp gauge would rise and to the shoulder I went to assess the situation....


It looked like shredded exhaust wrap thrown all over the serp belt side...thats all that was left of the belt..

So new belt went on...once she got home...

Still overheating after 1/4 mile she spikes up to 120C

and I cut car off and coast home

Checked flow of upper pipe after cooled...

Pipe gets hot when thermostat opens at 84-86C saw that running back and forth between pipe and SIDI

As she heats up I can feel the pipe expand and when I rev the engine up it seems there is flow with rising RPM's

So I swapped the Thermostat with a new one from autozone

HELP HELP HELP

She still overheats after a 1/4 mile and get to 120C

I have ordered a new pump again...the one on the car now has 10-12k miles on it so I am hoping it is good.. but have new one on on the way just in case

ANY ONE HAVE ANY DAMN CLUE WHAT HURTS MY BABY NOW???!????!??!??

Sincerely thanks all,
Will
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Old 05-25-2010, 09:54 AM   #2
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Is the thermostat mounted up the right way?



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Old 05-25-2010, 04:26 PM   #3
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Is the thermostat mounted up the right way?
I was thinking that too, or jsut a bad one
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Old 05-25-2010, 07:56 PM   #4
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i wouldnt use an autozone thermostat.



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Old 05-25-2010, 09:59 PM   #5
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I've had quite a few heating problems with my holset setup. Now finally it seems that i've got them figured out. Its the damn holset that is causing the problems, the solid lump of n-hundred degrees iron just next to the radiator is doing its damage on the engine temps.

So bought one of those turbo insulating hoods for the turbine housing and it seems to work pretty well.
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Old 05-26-2010, 07:08 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WPressly View Post
Radiator and heat issues led to a cracked radiator....

so in went a Alum. core rad that is 3x as thick

The lower hose has no kinks and flows well as well as the upper rad hose

I drove for a month with the new rad in and my cruising temps dropped from around 105 C to 112C down to 76 C to 86 C constantly always after huge new alum rad install

Last weekend I went down to help Moose put in the trans that would sheer 5th on the way to carlisle....

And dreadfully on the way home... at 80mph red triangle, batt light lit, 11.3v on volt meter.... NO SERP BELT!

So I went on cruising babying the temp gauge trying to get home.... she began to get warm 118-119C temp gauge would rise and to the shoulder I went to assess the situation....


It looked like shredded exhaust wrap thrown all over the serp belt side...thats all that was left of the belt..

So new belt went on...once she got home...

Still overheating after 1/4 mile she spikes up to 120C

and I cut car off and coast home

Checked flow of upper pipe after cooled...

Pipe gets hot when thermostat opens at 84-86C saw that running back and forth between pipe and SIDI

As she heats up I can feel the pipe expand and when I rev the engine up it seems there is flow with rising RPM's

So I swapped the Thermostat with a new one from autozone

HELP HELP HELP

She still overheats after a 1/4 mile and get to 120C

I have ordered a new pump again...the one on the car now has 10-12k miles on it so I am hoping it is good.. but have new one on on the way just in case

ANY ONE HAVE ANY DAMN CLUE WHAT HURTS MY BABY NOW???!????!??!??

Sincerely thanks all,
Will
Aluminum heads are easy to warp, you may have let it get too hot and have either a head gasket issue or warped head or even cracked head and that might be leading to the overheating issue,

John
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Old 05-26-2010, 07:35 AM   #7
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Aluminum heads are easy to warp, you may have let it get too hot and have either a head gasket issue or warped head or even cracked head and that might be leading to the overheating issue,

John
I'm on the same train of throught.

Driving the car without the belt probably caused this issue. Keep in mind, the temp gauge will only read the temp of the cooant where the gauge is probed into. If you have no water pump, you aren't circulating water around the head, block and the rest of the cooling system.

People will run into similar "temp gauge was reading OK" failures when they boil out much of the water from the cooling system...as those temp sensors aren't going to give an acurate temp if there is no coolant in the system where they are probed in.
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Old 05-27-2010, 07:21 AM   #8
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Angry

doesn't sound good bro......
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Old 05-27-2010, 07:35 AM   #9
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Thermostats can be damaged too, gut it out and let the coolant flow free all the time and then see if its still over-heating. If it is, that would mean either the wp is damaged and or a bad head or head gasket,

John
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Old 05-30-2010, 09:36 AM   #10
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Well, I think it is time to go ahead and rebuild that spare head...

Well I've come to the conclusion is to rip the thermostat out like John suggests and go with a an ol' moosefuc*er idea with a garden hose to blow back any obstructions that is present or attempt too...

I will attempt this prob tonight after lil man passes out bout 8.30p

I really appreciate all your imput and i may have F'd her real bad and do fear the worst...

If it is the HD/Head then I am just wondaring why there is no weapage of coolant into oil/ oil into coolant... I am just use to the milk choc. on the stick and the combustion smell in the overflow tank...


But I can still see the light...

I planned on rebuilding the t7 head I have with the internals from my t5 head I have in the garage with volvo springs...

I get a wholesale at the parts counter at saab/volvo of charlotte

Does any one know what make model springs in need to run in my head...

what car/motor/ year range????

Thanks all..be on the moto til she is up again!

Cheers
WIll
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Old 05-30-2010, 09:55 AM   #11
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try a new coolant cap also....

i had an issue similar to this with my 9k....i had a cap that would hold to much pressure.... and it would boil over then i stuck another cap on that would not build any pressure and it overheated all the time....

Make sure your cap is good
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Old 06-01-2010, 12:42 PM   #12
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try a new coolant cap also....

i had an issue similar to this with my 9k....i had a cap that would hold to much pressure.... and it would boil over then i stuck another cap on that would not build any pressure and it overheated all the time....

Make sure your cap is good
What Pound pressure are you running now mike???

I have a 7lb in there now and it is not doing Stix!!!

I am going to just take the t5 head for parts along with the t7head to rebuild to the machine shop tmrw...

The head on the car now has 100K+ on it and 50k+ was beyond stage 3 so it is probably time...

New head, hg job, thermostat, and wp and If that doesnt cure its fickle freaky behavior i will just let it melt itself...

But for real what springs for 7k rpm limit

Mike what cap you runing???
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