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Old 05-28-2013, 02:48 PM   #121
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hahah JUST watched that last night, too. Love MCM xD
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Old 05-28-2013, 06:42 PM   #122
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I watched that weeks ago, noobs MCM FTW.

No turbo, but I tinted my turn signals red.... close enough?

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Old 05-28-2013, 06:58 PM   #123
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I watched that weeks ago, noobs MCM FTW.

No turbo, but I tinted my turn signals red.... close enough?

Baller status achieved
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Old 05-31-2013, 10:45 AM   #124
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very nice
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Old 06-13-2013, 05:54 PM   #125
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Yeah, lots of people want stupid money for crappy Miatas... but good deals are out there.
Found a good deal, could be joining the club this weekend.
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Old 06-14-2013, 10:22 AM   #126
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i have one locally i could prolly get for 1500...but it has terrible non stock headlights.



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Old 06-18-2013, 11:53 AM   #127
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i have one locally i could prolly get for 1500...but it has terrible non stock headlights.
If you don't want, pass it on to me please.
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Old 08-18-2013, 03:39 PM   #128
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Still not much new to report. Replaced the tensioner for the water pump/alt belt because it completely disappeared from the car for the second time (wtf?). Got a couple more maintenance items coming up, maybe a fun thing or two but nothing too exciting.

A dirty roadster is an enjoyed roadster.





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Old 10-11-2013, 11:52 AM   #129
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And then there was 2...







'94 M Edition, drove it home for $800. Sweet.
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Old 10-11-2013, 11:55 AM   #130
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Ha, nice. What's it need?
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The only reason it took all day to install was because we couldn't keep our dicks out of each others mouths.
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Old 10-11-2013, 12:20 PM   #131
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Supposedly valve seals, 2nd gear synchro is very weak, true mileage unknown, and is generally beat Though aside from the grinding 2nd gear it actually drives pretty well.

The plan is just for it to donate its fun pieces (LSD) to the white car and then send it on its way when convertible season rolls around.
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'96 9000 Aero - Complicate and add torque steer

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Old 10-11-2013, 12:30 PM   #132
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The real stig would never drive a chick-mobile. And Clarkson would put this so high on the "seriously un-cool" side of the board; what more can I say?

One local guy has got his so pimped out, I have to take a picture, he has every chrome item on the car that he could buy or had it sent out. The wheel arches, chrome roll bar, tacky wheels, the list is endless.

The Lotus Elan was a sports car; the Mazda is, well, a Mazda. Now, the Sonett? OK, that was no ball of fire either.

I shouldn't toss stones and I'll come out of the automotive closet, having loved the ultimate Jap clone, the Honda S-300 and 600. Chain driven motorcycle engined pedal car (almost).

With the green one, I'd take it apart and piece by piece, put it in the crawl space or garage. Sounds wacky but one of my old buddies had over a dozen 914's, and another dozen 911 and 912's taken apart and "nested" neatly in the crawl of his house. You didn't ask him if he had a hood, you asked him if he had a red hood? You have a small fortune in just the dopey plastic items that will be sure to crack or something. What's the worst case? I understand the junk yard is giving about $500 if the motor starts and if you have the title.

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Old 10-11-2013, 12:34 PM   #133
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The real stig would never drive a chick-mobile. And Clarkson would put this so high on the "seriously un-cool" side of the board; what more can I say?

One local guy has got his so pimped out, I have to take a picture, he has every chrome item on the car that he could buy or had it sent out. The wheel arches, chrome roll bar, tacky wheels, the list is endless.

The Lotus Elan was a sports car; the Mazda is, well, a Mazda. Now, the Sonett? OK, that was no ball of fire either.
k
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Old 10-11-2013, 12:47 PM   #134
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What do the non-stock headlights look like? The car looks pretty clean the way it is, even better (the white one), when nose to nose without the badge.
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Old 10-12-2013, 03:45 PM   #135
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cool story bro.
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Old 10-13-2013, 10:03 AM   #136
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Some notes about the series one Miata.

*Early series one Miata (1600cc) needs to have the rear sub frame near the diff braced/closed to increase rigidity in that area of the chassis. Mazda did this on the later 1800cc cars.

*The chassis needs to be stiffened as much as possible. As delivered, it is more flexi flyer than predictable suspension platform. This is the prime problem in the Miata's chassis, lack of rigidity.

*The suspension corners on it's bump stops. Spring rates and damper rates have been selected by Mazda to deliver a softish ride, then limit body roll and increase effective spring rate by using the suspension bump stops. The Miata suspension works better once this designed in marketing trade-off has been eliminated by install any number of after market spring/damper kits available for the Miata. Do install the large after market anti-roll bar with rod ends, these make a significant difference in the overall suspension behavior of the Miata chassis..

*Do not over lower the Miata, about 1" is it. The suspension has about 2" of predictable suspension travel, it becomes non linear and weird once this amount of wheel travel has been exceeded.

*Wheels no wider than 7". Little to be gained and there will be rubbing on the fenders unless the body work is altered. Larger tires does not increase tire contact area, it changes the tire contact patch shape. a 205 wide tire is plenty. If you're after more grip, go to a 'R' compound or get a second set of wheels and tires with soft compound race slicks for track day duty. Use the lowest weight wheels possible to reduce un sprung weight as much as possible. Same apples to tires.

*If there is rear tire spin coming out of a turn, up grade the suspension/wheels/tires first before installing a LSD. A open diff car is easier to drive than one with a LSD.

*A-arm bushings wear out about 70,000 miles and will need to be replaced. Easy enough to do. The difficult part is setting the alignment. Eccentrics are used to set alignment and are fussy to get the required precision.

*The rear suspension of the Miata is designed to induce toe in on bump to enhance rear end stability. It's OK to give the driver a sense of cornering stability, but it is not the fastest way around a track.

*The CG is at the steering wheel instead of the hip.. for me, this is one of the most annoying features of the Miata

*Manual steering has better feel than the power steering.

*The engine cooling system is wrong as delivered. This engine was originally designed for a transverse FWD econo car, not a performance car. Mazda blocked off the original/as designed coolant exit at the end of the cylinder head.. Instead, Mazda took the coolant return near the front of the block which causes the rear of the engine (cylinders# 3 &4) to run no less than 30 degrees F hotter than cylinders# 1 & 2. Cooling of cylinders# 3 & 4 relies on the heater core. I have yet to meet a Spec Miata racer that has not popped a head gasket at Cylinders# 3 & 4 without a far oversized radiator. Even with the far oversized radiator, the proper fix is to install the coolant bypass which restores the originally designed coolant flow for this engine. Adding to this problem, the temp gauge does not indicate true coolant temperature, it is merely a fancy idiot light with a needle, same apples to the oil pressure gauge.

*Hydraulic lifters tend to fill and retain old oil resulting in goo inside the lifter causing them to rattle. The fix is to remove them, take them apart and give them a good cleaning out. Non OEM lifters are often junk. Same part is used in Kia & Ford econo cars that share this same engine. Mazda eventually gave up on Hydraulic lifters due to this problem and went to solid tappets.

*Cam angle sensors are known to die resulting in no ignition. The O-ring at the base of the CAS is a common source of oil leaks. Replace this with a Viton O-ring to improve service life.

*Coil packs can die resulting in no or weak spark on one pair of cylinders.

*If this engine is turbocharged.. the modified cooling system is a must and the max output should be limited to no more than 200 Bhp. Yes, it can produce far more than this, but it will grenade sooner than later. Proven by Eye Sore Racing at 24 Hours Of LeMons. Adding a turbo is the best way to get more power from this engine, as the con rods are too short and stroke too long to make a good NA engine. This is also why it runs more like a blender than a Made in Sweden Atlas Copco nut runner.

*Diffs are known to fail once power goes up..

*Do service the rear axle CV joints and boots as required.

*The idea of a V8 powered Miata is sort of OK.. if you're into that kind of thing. IMO, the chassis is far less than ideal for this due to it's lack of rigidity.


Here are some videos we did on the Miata.
Miya Gets Fixed - YouTube


Bernice

Last edited by Rupunzell; 10-13-2013 at 10:15 AM.
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Old 10-13-2013, 10:32 AM   #137
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Before installing a LSD.. read this technical doc from Taylor Racing:

"Understanding Differentials"

Hewland Gearbox | Jerico Transmissions | Quaife Transmission | Tilton Clutch | Racing Driveline


Bernice
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Old 10-14-2013, 06:09 AM   #138
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Well the chick-mobile went back to SLMP this weekend. As usual making the 400+ mile round trip plus two good days of track time without missing a beat. Unusual was successfully chasing down some much more serious machinery (S2000).

Interestingly in the spring, on Dunlop Direzza Z1's and Z2's, I was running 1:03-ish lap times and this time I was seeing low 1:02's. The only difference with the car being that it's currently on 205/50 Dunlop Z2's on the front and 185/65 Nankang shit-tastic all seasons on the rear. Quite a bit more lively and fun this way

Snagged a friedns GoPro for a couple runs, will post those and any pics I find ASAP.
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Old 10-18-2013, 05:16 PM   #139
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Got the polished door sills swapped out of the M:



And then checked out the underside of the M.



Guess that answers the question of whether or not I'm going to try saving that one
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Old 11-17-2013, 07:56 AM   #140
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Went for one last drive...


Swapped on the super fashionable winter wheels:


Started the M:


Last look:


Is it spring yet?
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