|05-13-2013 10:20 PM|
haha! I've had a few stories like that. My '00 Aero the first winter after I got it, wasn't making enough heat, threw a check engine light, gauge drops to the bottom. I removed the charge air pipe from the intercooler to the throttle body to get enough access to replace the thermostat. After I kept popping the pipe down where it connects to the rubber elbow off the intercooler. Turns out the hose clamp was seized so I couldn't tighten it anymore, finally sheared off the screwhead trying to tighten it. Since a new host clamp, no more trouble.
I also managed to break the fitting on the radiator replacing the upper radiator hose, necessitating a new radiator...
|04-25-2013 08:34 AM|
Ok guys, I am embarrassed to have to post this, but I need to be honest! So I bought this car, and it had been in a fender bender with a doe eyed little deer! So hood and lights smashed. Bend rad support and ruined rad and charge air cooler.
So after all is replaced and straight again the car ran like crap. But I never had it run correct prior due to the damage. All that said, car was skipping. People suggested a bad coolant temp sensor, due to a scan tool reading that was weird. Turned out my scan tool was the issue. After that, still skipping and all, it was suggested that the DI cassette was bad. I took it off and took cover off it. Found heat cracks in resin. So I assume this is it. Replaced it, still runs like crap. Next item I tried just by pure chance, unplug the MAF and see how it runs. Runs good without it. So I had a tranny cooler line leak that I needed to fix after a test drive. Car ran good but seemed kind of sluggish. I assume due to MAF unplugged. Put car on ramps to verify i have fixed ATF leak on cooler line, and what do I find??? I forgot to clamp the hose from the air cooler tot he engine so when it boosted it popped off easily. Hooked it up, plugged MAF back in, runs awesome and a lot of power. A lot more than before. Boost goes right up, sounds great!! So all of this headache was caused by a simple clamp I didn't tighten!!! I had double checked everything on top, never checked that 1 clamp that had to be done from the bottom. Lesson learned!!! Thank you all for your help!!!!
|04-12-2013 07:46 AM|
|newsaabguy||No problem! looks like we posted at the same time, but thanks for the idea! I am pretty confident I have it narrowed down to the MAF. At least I get real results when I disconnect it. Hopefully a cleaning will help, and if not a replacement. The car was hit right at that corner so it could just be damaged internally. Funny it doesn't send a fault code though. It may just be filthy. I will inspect it good when I remove it for the cleaning. I will update after I clean it and go from there! If needed I can get used saab originals fairly cheap so I will go that route if cleaning doesn't fix it or I find a problem with it.|
|04-12-2013 06:58 AM|
|Drew in Houston||
It sounds like the T-body actually is in Limp Home Mode. There's a one-shot solenoid that connectes the throttle body directly to the throttle cable in the event of trouble. Once connected, the throttle body has to be manually reset after the code is cleared. While in warm up mode it will run okay.
Does it click and carry on when you turn the key?
To check, pull the plastic cover off the throttle body and move the throttle by hand (as if the cable is pulling it). You should NOT see the actual throttle move. If the throttle moves, that means it's in limp home mode. You will have to clear the codes and manually re-set the throttle body spring.
edit: you beat me with your last post. So much for that idea lol
|04-12-2013 06:58 AM|
UPDATE - I did some more "googling". Ran across a you-tube video of how to determine if the TB is in limp mode and how to reset. I pulled my cover off, car NOT in limp.
I also found an article on MAF sensor issues. It was suggested to unplug the MAF and see if that does anything. So I did. Car runs perfect. Plug it back in, start it up, runs good for 15-20 seconds and starts skipping. I unplugged it while it was misfiring, and whoolah! straightened right out. Actually runs great without it. So I guess my next mission will be to get some CRC and see if it does anything, and if needed get a new MAF
|04-12-2013 06:16 AM|
I didn't have the cash to buy the saab original. I bought a new unit on ebay, warrantied for a year. From what I read on these, the aftermarkets don't hold up well due to the heat so I took a chance. The saab one is from 2007, not sure how many miles are on it. The car is a 2001. I figured the one I bought won't last as long but would get me going. I really question whether the DIC is the issue. New new part has exactly the same result.
Something I failed to mention before, one more thing this car does. The few moments it runs correctly, the turbo seems correct. When it starts misfiring the boost gauge goes up about halfway or so just trying to keep it idling, give it throttle to get rpm up and the boost drops a little before going up. Any chance the MAF can give me these symptoms? Even if it isn't throwing codes?
The dash readout is saying service anti theft alarm. Any chance the car is putting itself into a limp home mode or something due to this? Just a thought.
|04-12-2013 05:51 AM|
did you replece the DI with only a OEM unit. Many respecatible parts palces ( like rock auto) are selling conterfiet units and don't realize it there are so many in the sales channels now.
Manufacturer must be SES
|04-12-2013 05:47 AM|
'01 9-5 running poorly,skipping etc
I got this car used, had hit a deer. Damage all ti hood, and right front. I replaced rad,inter-cooler,lights,grille,hood,etc.
So to fire it up when it is all together, runs terrible, skipping and smoking as if it is getting too much gas. Prior to putting things together it ran smoothly but surged, which I expected was due to the fact the air intake system had broken off the inter-cooler and there were some vacuum line issues. So once all fixed I expected a good runner. Not what I got. So engine code po1300, random misfire tells me little. With advice from others it seemed the DI cassette might be the culprit, and I removed and inspected it to find the resin inside that holds the electrics was cracked from heat, seemed like a logical thing to replace it. So I did and I get exactly the same result. Start the engine, runs smooth for a few seconds and then starts skipping, running rough, smoking a little black/gray smoke if you rev it up a bit(only a burst, once RPM is up no smoke), engine light flashing. So as my codes indicate basically nothing, I am thinking of replacing crank sensor next, not too tough or expensive to try. Anyone have any other suggestions? Oh , also, the car did have correct NGK's in it but I put a new set in and gapped them exact. It is getting air, I had pulled MAF off the air filter side to verify it is pulling good air, and it is, does the same thing when not hooked to filter housing. Could the MAF cause this? It was right in the impact zone. Doesn't look damaged?