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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-19-2013 05:47 PM
NotAnotherSaabStory It's all in the attention to detail. Just slap the pistons in with a quick hone for the rings. If you ever decide to up the power your in a better/safer position to.then all u have to worry about is chassis flex .
03-15-2013 07:48 PM
Slow Joe
Quote:
Originally Posted by JAERO View Post
Hey Saab family I just did JE pistons from GS for my viggen I got the one over stock size I'm keeping the stock rods do I need to get it balance ??
Thank you!!
JONESY
Yes. Get it all balanced (rods and pistons), get the crank polished, new bearings, obviously have the block decked, bored .020, etc...
03-15-2013 05:48 PM
Legit Have the crank mic'd and polished at a shop. New bearings too, let them tell you what size to get. Make sure you do thrust bearings too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JAERO View Post
Hey Saab family I just did JE pistons from GS for my viggen I got the one over stock size I'm keeping the stock rods do I need to get it balance ??
Thank you!!
JONESY
03-15-2013 02:53 PM
JAERO Hey Saab family I just did JE pistons from GS for my viggen I got the one over stock size I'm keeping the stock rods do I need to get it balance ??
Thank you!!
JONESY
03-15-2013 08:17 AM
Snowcat77 wrong sub forum on this one?

lol i looked at the last post next to the n/a tuning forum and said please do not swap an na into a vigg, and if you are id love to do an even trade for my stock ng bumpers for the viggen ones
02-28-2013 10:43 AM
mvadenais I have had excellent luck with wossner pistons. Cold weather has given me zero issues. Not even cold piston clack that some people wit JE pistons have experienced. My cylinders were bored 1 over and honed. (my 9000 aero). My friends MCY viggen also has wossners bored 1 over and he's had no issues in 6 years. He drives the living shit out of it. Of course we both did nothing half ass when rebuilding our motors. If you plan on going to a gt30 I would definitely go with wossner or forged pistons. Good luck with your build
02-27-2013 08:26 PM
jssaab
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slow Joe View Post
I wouldn't "toss the pistons in" without at least a hone (so the rings seal correctly). I'd probably have the crank polished as well, and have everything balanced.

Better to do it right the first time, than to waste money and time having to do it again.

Just my opinion.
This is what the machine shop said but if the block has only 2K on it I would wonder why all this is needed. I could just use a ball hone ( but if the hone marks are still there doe sit need it) and I would not even pull the crank bearings just the rod, would it need to be polished...

ALso sorry this got stuck in the NA thread--- move if warranted...
02-27-2013 07:13 PM
Legit I'm in the same boat as you. I was originally planning on replacing a damaged piston with a new one on my 02 Viggen Vert. I ended up going to 90.5mm Wossners with a bore / hone, de-carboned valves, decked head, and polished crank. More $$ but well worth it in my opinion. New clutch, timing kit, and PCV system as well
02-27-2013 06:48 PM
mike saunders
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevbd View Post
Everyone talks about the strength and durability of forged pistons but then you see a bunch of info saying they suck in daily driving and the engine actually needs to be rebuilt a whole lot sooner than with standard cast. I've got a Viggen I bought nearly new, 165K miles on a basic stage 3-ish tune and the thing just goes - cold weather, commuting, occasional track day, whatever. Burns no oil and asks nothing of me. Can you expect that from forged pistons?
Yes.
02-27-2013 06:15 PM
stevbd Everyone talks about the strength and durability of forged pistons but then you see a bunch of info saying they suck in daily driving and the engine actually needs to be rebuilt a whole lot sooner than with standard cast. I've got a Viggen I bought nearly new, 165K miles on a basic stage 3-ish tune and the thing just goes - cold weather, commuting, occasional track day, whatever. Burns no oil and asks nothing of me. Can you expect that from forged pistons?
02-27-2013 01:30 PM
Slow Joe
Quote:
Originally Posted by jssaab View Post
Yes short block replacement due to sludge Car was only driven 1000 per year after replacement.

It is a brand new bottom end. The guy that does my machine work is anal and would want to the bores and polish the crank.

I guess I can talk to the mechanic and see if he thinks just tossing in the positions would be okay.
I wouldn't "toss the pistons in" without at least a hone (so the rings seal correctly). I'd probably have the crank polished as well, and have everything balanced.

Better to do it right the first time, than to waste money and time having to do it again.

Just my opinion.
02-27-2013 11:08 AM
jssaab Yes short block replacement due to sludge Car was only driven 1000 per year after replacement.

It is a brand new bottom end. The guy that does my machine work is anal and would want to the bores and polish the crank.

I guess I can talk to the mechanic and see if he thinks just tossing in the positions would be okay.
02-27-2013 09:12 AM
mike saunders
Quote:
Originally Posted by jssaab View Post
Edit>>> talked to the machine shop, he said run it, not worth tearing it down if it truly has only 2000 miles. So I will do a light upgrade, conservative tune ( and put in an AFR gauge)
Why would it have been replaced under warranty if nothing was wrong? The sludge warranty only covered replacements?

Was the block replaced, and then there's only 2000 miles on that?
02-27-2013 08:11 AM
gm Like stated flexy chassis thus to much power would be scary I would think.

My viggen uses stock internals, -18t, t5 cams and a mild tune and its a great setup. Of coarse I would love more power and if my engine was out and I had the funds w/o a doubt I would yank the oem pistons, I would of done that 90k miles ago if I could. I worry all the time about killing a piston, similar worry back when I had a c900..... Except it was the Trans I was worried about with that car.

-if you have the funds I would swap pistons then nothing to worry about with the engine!
02-27-2013 08:00 AM
grkguy89 If it was already balanced then no need to balance again with the wossners.
02-27-2013 06:42 AM
jssaab
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike saunders View Post
If you're super positive about keeping the power under or around 300, then you're probably OK with the stock slugs.

But if you were just changing pistons, then you wouldn't need to rebalance, just weigh piston assemblies and keep the existing rods in the same bores
Yeah but man they got the 9-5 so close to perfect it humms, its so smooth.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tweek's Turbos View Post
I like the fresh engine with the wossners plan.
I am going to call the shop and see what the machist says, if he doesn't have to do much except swap the pistons, could be pretty cheap.

Edit>>> talked to the machine shop, he said run it, not worth tearing it down if it truly has only 2000 miles. So I will do a light upgrade, conservative tune ( and put in an AFR gauge)
02-27-2013 06:18 AM
Tweek's Turbos I like the fresh engine with the wossners plan.
02-27-2013 06:10 AM
mike saunders If you're super positive about keeping the power under or around 300, then you're probably OK with the stock slugs.

But if you were just changing pistons, then you wouldn't need to rebalance, just weigh piston assemblies and keep the existing rods in the same bores
02-27-2013 05:41 AM
srp Remember, the vert is an even more flexy chassis then the 3 and 5 door.
The big question is, will you be satisfied with stock power levels?
02-27-2013 05:29 AM
jssaab
Opinions on Viggen Vert project

So I am starting to work on Drew's old 2000 LB Viggen Vert. I was orignally going to scrounge parts and build a 235 with some old Wossners, T5 cams and whatever else I had hanging around.

ANyhoo, then I found an engine that had the short block replaced under the sludge warranty that only has 2000 miles on it. I am tempted just to swap as is ( but rebuild the turbo that has 100K on it) Suince its so light on the miles the engine will need no machine work excpet to swap out pistons and I am not sure its worth the added expense to pull it apart to balance (i think)

Since the motor is out will take a look at the clutch and change easy to reach sensors and other parts, but is it worth busting into the block to swap out teh pistons, or should I just maybe add the cams, rebuild to a 18t or 19t turbo and keep the build just under 300 HP? Remember its a lightning blue vert, kinda rare.

I am tryig to pull the trigger soon on whether to send it off the machine shop or not.

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