|02-14-2013 09:42 AM|
When i first got back into thee cars I was all about tupperware. I have a set on my vert and a set sitting in the garage and truthfully I wanna sell both sets.
Very nice example a pure 900... Sweet!
|02-14-2013 09:29 AM|
Here is a picture from Swedish Car Day 12':
The front fender rust only shows through on the drivers side. The rest of the car still looks pretty good when its all cleaned up.
|02-14-2013 08:02 AM|
|9000Andrew||Nice work! I love welding and doing jobs like this. I wish more owners would go to this extent to save their c900's.|
|02-14-2013 07:51 AM|
impressive work.. this car looks like its gets lots of love. how does the whole thing look, curiouis to see...
Very nice work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
|02-14-2013 06:10 AM|
This car is now being driven by my younger brother, and at the beginning of January we took it down to Stafford CT for a SCCA rally. At stafford springs the rear drivers side shock blew through the upper mount where it had rusted out. So last week my brother made up a new piece to weld in and cut out most of the rust and cleaned the area up.
And then I helped weld it in while Marcel watched for fires inside the car.
We also got a set of Bilstein HD's for the car, and are also replacing the worn out Hawk HPS pads that are up front, and the rear brakes as well. I'll keep this updated as we work on other areas of the car that are showing some rust, including one front fender.
|02-12-2012 08:49 AM|
The wheel wells were originally white anyway, with no undercoating, and I just painted over what was already there. So even if the new paint comes off, the cars still protected. Plus thats the reason I did the whole wheel well was to see how it would hold up.
The area down around the control arm and inside the drive shaft tunnel did get some undercoating though.
|02-11-2012 06:35 PM|
|tuner4life||Looks great. Good Job! I'd probably undercoat those wheel wells though, the white paint looks great now, but will probably last a short while.|
|02-11-2012 03:35 PM|
Control arm rust repair
Something I did about a month ago an my Dads 92' turbo. This car has 260,000ish miles and climbing rapidly, but it still runs and drives nicely. The drivers side is still solid and the passenger side was just getting to the point where it would soon become an issue. I preferred doing it before the rust really took over as it meant less had to be replaced.
Anyway, the first step was to hit the area with a braided wire wheel and see what was rust and what was real metal. The wire wheel does a nice job busting through the rust and exposing where things are rotted away, while also cleaning the surrounding metal. After doing that I cut out all of the affected areas. I didn't do a good job remembering to take pics, so I don't have a good step by step of what I did. But here are a few to give an idea.
This is after cleaning the surrounding areas really well in preparation for welding, and cutting out the rust.
You can see I primed everything before welding the new metal in, obviously the welding burned off some of this, but with everything open like this it was easier to get into all the corners. I figured this would help me get the best coverage in the end. I also completely painted the wheel well. I used this paint in my hillcimb car and it has held up nicely, but I figured a car that does 600+ miles a week year round would be a good test of its durability.
Here you can see where the body had rusted away where it was connected to the frame rail. This was originally hidden by a mix of dirt, seam sealer. I noticed a pinhole of light shining through from my worklight, and after some digging found this. I'm glad I noticed it though as it was an easy fix at this point. After cleaning up the surrounding metal a nit more I made a piece of angle out of a strip of sheet and filled the gap.
After that I made five more pieces. The first piece filled the where I cut out part of the inner wheel well, plus another curved strip welded to that to mimic the ridge that is stamped around where the drive shaft comes through. The ridge adds a lot of strength to that area, and I didn't want to leave it out.
This bottom section is three pieces, the middle section that bends down and buts up against the rail is one. And then the curved sections where the control arms come out are the other two.