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Performance Modifications for the NG900 / Old 9-3 This forum contains PERFORMANCE related Q&A's for the NG900 and 9-3. This may also include suspension.

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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-12-2013 08:03 AM
Ciscowned I'm looking to maybe get into the build with mine. I've had it paid-off for awhile and have really been thinking about selling it cheap. But I've been wanting to refresh/build with my dad.

A lot of good info is in YlwJet's build thread. From what I remember off-hand he did some great high-power reliability mods. One that stuck out was using a B234R oil pump by slapping the correct timing cover on and a P/S pump from a 9-5 (correct me if I'm mistaken).

Even if you aren't going that high, check it out.
08-08-2013 04:05 PM
mustardtiger 18 month bump. No use in starting a new thread...

At 193k, my timing chain has just about reached its max. I'm paranoid as shit, always let the car warm up to temp and drive more or less like a grandma. I figure once I sort out some stupid problems with my aero, I'll have that to drive all winter, so this would be an optimal time to pull the motor and take care of it.

Obviously, all new timing components. But I'm strongly considering doing an 18/19T upgrade (on both cars, ultimately), so I guess maybe the motor should just get the whole 9 all at once? Pistons, bearings, head refresh, etc. I'd like to think I'm more than competent enough to handle "advanced" mechanical work, so I plan on doing as much work myself as possible.

If anyone else has gone the DIY rebuild route to obtain ~300whp, any advice/figures is much appreciated. I should note, probably not aiming to go 18/19T at the time of rebuild. Just want to get the motor ready for it. I'd like to do a complete suspension overhaul beforehand, and unfortunately my pockets are only so deep.

TIA!
02-18-2012 06:12 AM
Drew in Houston Machine work pricing is sort of regional I think. 1st over, balanced-certified to 10k rpm on the rotating assembly, and the shop supplied the bearings, no head work at all, was around $750... of course, they didn't turn the crank for the mains and the clearancing showed at the top end on plasti-gauge but was actually over, so I had to pull everything apart and do a rebuild, but they got it right the second time.
02-18-2012 03:25 AM
viggenkid
Quote:
Originally Posted by friggin viggen View Post
i second this.

I cracked a stock piston on my vig and it tore up one of the cylinder walls. Took to a machine shop and bored out to 91mm (1mm over, you can do .5 just fine, i just went with 1) and got the JE forged 91mm pistons, replaced the oil squirter that was damaged, all the seals, many other internals, had the block acid washed, crank polished and all that jazz. works great and that was prob 60k ago maybe?
what was your bill? i think that was the point of this thread.
02-18-2012 12:05 AM
friggin viggen
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike saunders View Post
The most cost-effective route is just to remove the existing engine, bore out the cylinders .5mm and and replace the weaksauce stock pistons with forged JE or Wossner. If the engine was actually changed 30K miles ago, the timing and balance chains should be fine, and you probably don't need to touch the oil pump gears (although you should check them....) Add a 3" downpipe, intercooler, a cobra pipe and tuning and you should be very close to a SAFE 280-300 whp.

That should be just under the $2K level, depending on how much you do

i second this.

I cracked a stock piston on my vig and it tore up one of the cylinder walls. Took to a machine shop and bored out to 91mm (1mm over, you can do .5 just fine, i just went with 1) and got the JE forged 91mm pistons, replaced the oil squirter that was damaged, all the seals, many other internals, had the block acid washed, crank polished and all that jazz. works great and that was prob 60k ago maybe?
02-17-2012 05:26 PM
JAERO Thks mike I'll look at all the above mention
02-17-2012 06:11 AM
mike saunders
Quote:
Originally Posted by yllwJet View Post

all that was done internally were je pistons and new bearings. machine work was like 700$ plus new parts, chains, bearings, sprockets etc. so prob like 2,000$
This.

If there's no scoring on the bearings, then no need to touch the crank outside of a light deglazing with emery and solvent. Balance the rod/piston assemblies within factory specs; check sprockets, chains, guides and and oil gears for wear, then button it up.

I wouldn't even touch the head....
02-17-2012 05:55 AM
bergie if the body/paint/ bumper's/trans/leather are in good shape he might be able to get that, i wouldn't pay that..you can find 140k viggen's with good running motor's for near that? plus its a 5 door...it's just a waiting game, if you can wait for one to pop up grab one with a 150kish and a good motor, re seal it, maybe new pistons few misc. things and your ready to go.

these are getting harder to find, but id show up with $3000 cash..see if he let's you walk.
02-17-2012 05:47 AM
TurboGT Sorry.... forgot to put the mileage. 140k on the vehicle and the motor was replaced with new clutch at 102k.

The guy is asking $4000 for it, which I think is high.

Also with the motor going out so quickly again it makes me question if there is something else wrong, like a DI or MAF.
02-17-2012 05:39 AM
bergie tough to tell what condition the paint/body/interior is in from that picture, also what does it have for mileage.? that's really what it comes down to for resale. to me that's a $3000 dollar car..i paid $2k for a stock 72k black coupe w/ blown motor.. also w. the same wheels you have in 16in..but body wise in rough shape in my book.
02-17-2012 04:25 AM
byastremski that one is way cleaner than the one I bought 2 years ago... mine had 65k w/ a blown motor, black 5dr, bone stock and looked like it had never been washed a day in its life... i payed $2500 plus $900 to ship from colorado too NY... just for reference
02-16-2012 08:36 PM
TurboGT Thanks for the estimates guys!!!

What do you think a clean 2000 Viggen with a bad motor is worth?
Car has custom dash and grill, GS Open air intake, Abbott Rescue Kit, Cross Drilled Rotors, 18 Borbet rims with new Continentals. The car looks clean but does have a dent or two on the body and the drivers seat has some wear.

02-16-2012 12:58 PM
yllwJet also anyone looking for an engine build/re-build and not up for doing it themselves, me and harvey are most certainly up for the job
02-16-2012 12:54 PM
yllwJet
Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboGT View Post
Thats the thing.....he was suggesting I go that route. If i get this I will keep the stock block if it is machinable otherwise I will look into the b234 block.

yllwJet, how much did you have into your Viggen motor (not the turbo setup) before you bent the rod?
if your get a b234 block it doesnt matter. its the pistons that make the difference. make sure you get t7 pistons and either b234 or b235 will be fine.

all that was done internally were je pistons and new bearings. machine work was like 700$ plus new parts, chains, bearings, sprockets etc. so prob like 2,000$


Quote:
Originally Posted by JAERO View Post
Hi yellow Jet
I just rebuild my Viggen engine
Whit JE piston everything in there
Is new excepts the rods and crank
New timing cover kit I replace everything
New water pump, head gasket oil pressure switch
Head was rebuild too
It's like a new engine but I'm having a oil pressure
And lifter problems any suggestion I pull the engine
Three times already Trying to find the problem The
Car idle good for a hour then the lifter starts too make
Noise and the oil light come's on. HELP
i had oil pressure issues too. it depends on your bearing clearances, should be .020 you can pop in some washers into the oil pressure valve to increase the pressure and use a thicker oil.
02-16-2012 11:33 AM
Harvey's Autohaus I've been trying to Gestimate this all week also.

Machining is usually around $800.00 for a normal build, Minus balence, Includes Grind 16 valves, Bore block, Polish crank etc. can be over a grand if you want all the parts Balenced together as an assembly.


Water pump T. Stat $150.00

Gaskets $300 ish

Pistons $600.oo or so

Bearings Figure $220 ish for aftermarket.

Chains can add up to a grand almost some times.

Labor? Depends on Retail, TSLr or other. $1000.-2000. Also Depends on if installed in the car or not. Prices may vary
02-16-2012 08:14 AM
TurboGT
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike saunders View Post
A Viggen only weighs about 3,050, so either the Saab is light or the Fiero needs to go on Atkins.
2800 is with my 200 lb ass and a half tank of gas, but it could definitely be lighter (what do you expect the car was built from the existing parts bin GM had laying around )..... guess thats what happens with 15 years difference between manufacturing.

Mike, Thanks for the suggestions on the Viggen rebuild
02-16-2012 06:18 AM
mike saunders A Viggen only weighs about 3,050, so either the Saab is light or the Fiero needs to go on Atkins.

The most cost-effective route is just to remove the existing engine, bore out the cylinders .5mm and and replace the weaksauce stock pistons with forged JE or Wossner. If the engine was actually changed 30K miles ago, the timing and balance chains should be fine, and you probably don't need to touch the oil pump gears (although you should check them....) Add a 3" downpipe, intercooler, a cobra pipe and tuning and you should be very close to a SAFE 280-300 whp.

That should be just under the $2K level, depending on how much you do yourself.

Once you get the car back on the road, you can start thinking about a turbo upgrade. With an 18 or 19T, or GTX3071 the car's everyday drivability will be very close to stock but you'll have in the range of 320-350 WHP and 350-400 WTQ, depending on tune. (A Holset might also work for you; there are a couple of small-frame ones in the HY series that could work, but I'm not that familiar with them.) That's pretty much the reasonable limit for an all-weather daily driver.

A rewheel of the 15T to an 18T would be maybe $400ish and would include a rebuild and balancing. A Holset would be MUCH cheaper than a GT series and could be rebuilt if anything went wrong. The ball-bearing GT or GTX series needs a whole new CHRA, but Garrett giver you a credit if bought at an authorized retailer.
02-16-2012 05:34 AM
TurboGT
Quote:
Originally Posted by JAERO View Post
Hi yellow Jet
I just rebuild my Viggen engine
Whit JE piston everything in there
Is new excepts the rods and crank
New timing cover kit I replace everything
New water pump, head gasket oil pressure switch
Head was rebuild too
It's like a new engine but I'm having a oil pressure
And lifter problems any suggestion I pull the engine
Three times already Trying to find the problem The
Car idle good for a hour then the lifter starts too make
Noise and the oil light come's on. HELP
Hey JAREO,

I will let you hijack my thread if you post up a cost breakdown of how much you spent to rebuild the motor

Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew in Houston
Nice Fiero btw! What engine is that; have any dyno sheets?
The engine is a 3400 out of a 2002 Pontiac Grand AM. Dyno sheets are coming this spring but it should put down 300+ whp and ~350 ft-lb's of torque. The car only weighs 2800 lbs so it gets up and goes with only 10 psi of boost (launch control is setup and I can hit 5psi off the line).

Anyone else have any input of $$$ to rebuild this engine?
What would you suggest doing given different price levels???
Lets say I spend $2k on the rebuild.... where would that get me?
what about $3k?
How about $4k?
02-15-2012 08:43 PM
JAERO Drew
Yes everything new I'm going
To pull the crank out and replace and
See what happen will let you know
Thanks for the reply !!
02-15-2012 06:53 PM
Drew in Houston Nice Fiero btw! What engine is that; have any dyno sheets?

I had the worst kind back in the day, '84, automatic, Iron Duke. I think it had about 35 hp.
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