|09-20-2009 02:36 PM|
Found the little beast. In the FRONT part of the inner fender (I had opened the rear).
I removed the Li batteries. Soldered wires in their place, remoted the alarm to the radiator bracket, and connected an external battery to it. I used an AGM 6V battery that I got at a GREAT deal from Batteries Plus. Note that they had the CR37335SE batteries there, but after doing much reading on the web, the SE batteries do not have the surge current that the original CR37335 batteries had. The ones that come next closest are a CR123A. I figured with an ext. battery, I can do what I want now.
I looked at the demand on the battery while connected, and I see 0.0000024 A. That's 2.4 micro-Amps. [EDIT: I had a better meter connected to it tonight--my previous readings were incrrect.] I started the car, and did not see the battery being charged, so I may have to come up with a charging circuit for it. Probably a 2K resistor connected to something while the car is running. That will yield about 3mA. I also since verified that the (-) neg. side of the 2 Li batteries is common with the 12V car battery negative (they're connected together), so that will simplify a charging circuit.
I've attached a file I found posted regarding the specs on the Li batts.
Look at the SE battery and note that it cannot provide a surge current like the other 2. I believe the SE battery is designed for computer memory, and things that have very low demand/draw.
BTW, I paid $6.00 for the AGM battery at BatteriesPlus. I think it was marked $12, but he wanted to get rid of them because they use to be used in pay-phones, and there's not a demand for them anymore. It was about the smallest 6V Pb AGM battery that they had.
Oh, my AGM 6V battery is about 6.6V at min. or no load. And I tried it on a 12V 55W halogen bulb for a load, and it lit it, so it seems like it can push a good amount of current when needed. I think it's a 1.3Ahr battery, so not as much capacity as before, but I'm sure it can handle the demand load.
|09-20-2009 12:11 PM|
|BLK4DR||yea i fixed the turn signals. it was a wire from my fog lights that was grounded out and shorting the circuit.|
|09-20-2009 12:01 PM|
Sorry you're having so many elect. probs. I can tell you one thing about the rear brake, running, back-up, and turn indicators: The Saab bulb sockets SUCK. They suck so bad, that even when the dealer replaced the sockets at my request about 2 years ago, THEY STILL SUCKED. They were intermittent, until you touched or wiggled one of the bulbs. Many, many SID faults for brake lites, or others. Car came "certified" used, so that warranty worked out in OUR favor, many times over!
I proceeded to install new light bulbs that I re-touched with some solder close to the small posts on the bulb bases, and the problems are GONE. I believe that the sockets were "pre-plated" and then sheared when they're manufctrd. And that leaves a raw edge of steel which induces lousy connections.
I'm digging around in here for my 2000 9-5 alarm box. I have the left inner fender pried back, removed the sound-proofing, AND I CAN'T FIND THE DARN BOX. What gives?
|09-07-2009 04:25 PM|
|BLK4DR||oh yea and I forgot to ask have any of you guys had a problem with the lights on the overhead control pannel not working? like the light comes on when you open the door. but the little airplane light doesnt work nor does the switch to turn it on at night and the light in the glove box doesnt come on anymore.|
|09-07-2009 03:28 PM|
|BLK4DR||ok so do i access it from the trunk or the rear seat?|
|09-07-2009 01:41 PM|
|mike9000aero||i think on the drivers side, inside the plastic "protector" where the wiring comes into the trunk|
|09-07-2009 01:03 PM|
|BLK4DR||So now my turn signls are both gone but my flashers still work. And so far I havnt found a break in the wires in the trunk. Where do the wires usually break in the trunk?|
|08-14-2009 10:34 AM|
|BLK4DR||whats the turn around time on their stuff? and all their prices are in pounds.|
|08-14-2009 06:15 AM|
|08-14-2009 05:07 AM|
There is an alarm module box inside the drivers fender wheel in front of the wheel. Remove a few screws and pry the fender liner back and out of your way and you'll see the little black box. Remove that and send it off to BBA to be re manufactured. Same for your SID.
BBA is a good company. I bought one of there SID's and it has a lifetime warranty on it. So far I've only had to send it back once for a new one. I'll be having to do it again soon but that was the point to get it with the lifetime warranty. The SID's are always going to go bad.
|08-13-2009 09:39 PM|
|BLK4DR||whats bba? and what box?|
|08-13-2009 04:32 PM|
|Kad||send your box to bba its like 14$ and shipping its free|
|08-13-2009 02:06 PM|
|BLK4DR||Do you mean the batteries inside the black box?|
|08-13-2009 01:57 PM|
|Tweek's Turbos||Remove the battery that opperates the alarm.|
|08-12-2009 07:47 PM|
|BLK4DR||can the SID be fixed if the ribbon has been disconnected from the circuit board?|
|08-12-2009 07:02 PM|
In my 9-5 Aero the brights wouldnt work so I replaced the relay and that fixed it. Try doing that with your turn signal thingy.
About the SID, go to BBA remanufacturing. I just sent mine there, a refurbished one is $90
|08-12-2009 06:59 PM|
|BLK4DR||ok so tonight, i locked my car and the flashers started going off like 10mins. later. I went outside and clicked the unlock button and they stopped. Idk whats going on. I really need to get a new SID asap. Anyone have an idea of why it would go off and stop when i unlock the car? like its not the case where the alarm keeps going after you try to unlock/disarm it.|
|08-11-2009 07:23 PM|
|08-11-2009 05:35 PM|
|08-11-2009 05:13 PM|
|BLK4DR||Ok thanks for your input guys.|
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