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Performance Modifications for the NG900 / Old 9-3 This forum contains PERFORMANCE related Q&A's for the NG900 and 9-3. This may also include suspension.

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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-28-2009 09:06 AM
nomadtw
Quote:
Originally Posted by booyakasha07 View Post
Slightly greater throttle response, but the car will fail emissions test and smell like ass. I would say the difference is only 1-2hp, nothing worth while until your stage 3+ prolly.
i have no emmissions to pass here, i could rip every bit of EGR and whatnot out of the engine and still be fine
07-28-2009 05:12 AM
8valvegrowl It's best to not mess with the wastegate actuator. You can turn it in/out and alter the base boost level, but your ecu determines all of it's boost control measures from the base boost setting (designed to be 6psi) and it you futz with it, you are playing with fire.

Buy someone with a BDM a 6-pack and get a Stage 1 tune.

I've been running without A/C for two years now....it really only sucks on days when it's pouring, but I just crack the rear windows a smidge and turn regular defrost on and it seems to manage keeping the windows pretty clear.

As you get closer to the Mason/Dixon line, A/C becomes more necessary, thanks to those hot, humid mid-atlantic summers.
07-27-2009 09:16 PM
booyakasha07
Quote:
Originally Posted by nomadtw View Post
what about gutting the cat?
how will that help the performance?
Slightly greater throttle response, but the car will fail emissions test and smell like ass. I would say the difference is only 1-2hp, nothing worth while until your stage 3+ prolly.
07-27-2009 08:21 PM
nomadtw what about gutting the cat?
how will that help the performance?
07-27-2009 10:35 AM
kingofkrunk
Quote:
Originally Posted by aireeca View Post
Yep. But, remember, when you lose your AC, you lose window defogging capabilities. It's nothing keeping an old T-shirt in the car can't handle, but it can be annoying.
my a/c pulley has been un plugged and free wheeling for 2 years now ... with no plumbing, itll be nice to finally remove it
07-27-2009 10:34 AM
aireeca Well, seeing as how AC works by taking moisture out of the air and all....

That said, I didn't have any problems with it in Ohio. In Connecticut, when I lived near the coast, yeah, it fogged quite a bit.
07-27-2009 10:32 AM
Straitup D i have yet to have a problume with mine
07-27-2009 10:30 AM
aireeca Yep. But, remember, when you lose your AC, you lose window defogging capabilities. It's nothing keeping an old T-shirt in the car can't handle, but it can be annoying.
07-27-2009 10:27 AM
kingofkrunk
Quote:
Originally Posted by Straitup D View Post
get the "short belt", it is the same as the 3.0 nissan maxima

https://www.saablink.net/forum/showthread.php?t=22406
i didnt know this could be done ... .score!!!! thanks!!!!
07-27-2009 10:17 AM
Straitup D
Quote:
Originally Posted by zingZACH View Post
Yes, it is still being turned by the engine's pulley system.
get the "short belt", it is the same as the 3.0 nissan maxima

https://www.saablink.net/forum/showthread.php?t=22406
07-27-2009 10:16 AM
nomadtw
Quote:
Originally Posted by zingZACH View Post
Yes, it is still being turned by the engine's pulley system.
i'm not removing my ac system, but a good thought... maybe if i ever get one to turn into a rediculous track car, but not on my, now, DD

we don't have anything as simple as a wastegate screw that can be tightened a smidge, like the 3kgt/stealth do we?

i've came up with some little things that need fixed that won't cost me anything,
and i am going to probably end up detailing the ever living hell out of it

i already took off years of faded paint all over the car it's back to it's beautiful red.

i found a replacement top, but it's the whole unit in one piece in the up position so i need to find a truck
07-27-2009 09:43 AM
J93O I think you're right about the fan. Most people say turn the heat on to cool the engine, because this will remove heat from the engine and direct it into the cabin, and in my "testing" doing this slightly lowers engine temps (which makes so much more sense), but turning on the A/C (no sense) greatly reduces the engine temp in all circumstances I've tested. Usually within 10 seconds. Highway driving is usually around 86-94 with A/C on drops to 81-85. When sitting as opposed to driving the temps immediately rise, but if A/C goes on they fall right off. who knows. I trust the gauge, and am keeping that A/C whether I use it to cool me off or not haha.

edit: "engine temp" referring to coolant temp and is read in Celsius.
07-27-2009 08:18 AM
Viggensegg
Quote:
Originally Posted by J93O View Post
But I have the Tech2 display from jzw's tune, and Ive noticed that when sitting in traffic in hot Denver this summer my engine temp can reach over 100C, but with A/C on its as low as 82C. I duno if that means anything but I use it in such instances to keep things cool.

That doesn't make sense. Turning the AC on should make engine temperatures go up, not down. The AC removes heat from air going to the passenger cabin and deposits it right next to your radiator.

Only way I could think of it getting cooler is if you were moving very slowly or not at all, and turning on the AC caused the radiator fan to kick on, but I'd have thought it would already be on...
07-27-2009 07:19 AM
zingZACH
Quote:
Originally Posted by J93O View Post
Makes sense. Is it still drawing from the engine when not in use? Obviously it is a huge draw when in use. And 15 pounds is 15 pounds. And the A/C made installing my ETS an enormous pain. But I have the Tech2 display from jzw's tune, and Ive noticed that when sitting in traffic in hot Denver this summer my engine temp can reach over 100C, but with A/C on its as low as 82C. I duno if that means anything but I use it in such instances to keep things cool.
Yes, it is still being turned by the engine's pulley system.
07-27-2009 07:17 AM
J93O Makes sense. Is it still drawing from the engine when not in use? Obviously it is a huge draw when in use. And 15 pounds is 15 pounds. And the A/C made installing my ETS an enormous pain. But I have the Tech2 display from jzw's tune, and Ive noticed that when sitting in traffic in hot Denver this summer my engine temp can reach over 100C, but with A/C on its as low as 82C. I duno if that means anything but I use it in such instances to keep things cool.

I've had the hood insulation and rubber strip off of my car for years now. I did notice an ever so slight increase in spool up sound and could imagine that at highway speeds it would allow more air to circulate, but doubt any real gains would come from it. Oh, and no negative side effects with the paint.
07-27-2009 07:09 AM
8valvegrowl Like Zach said. you remove ~15lbs of weight from the front of the car, reduce parasitic engine loss (minor, but hey), improve cooling to the radiator (I removed everything, condensor, compressor, drier, and lines) and make everything much easier to work on, especially if you change your intercooler. That, and I used my A/C about 3 days every year.
07-27-2009 06:56 AM
zingZACH
Quote:
Originally Posted by J93O View Post
8 valve, just curious...Why remove the A/C?
It is less draw off of the motors pulley system (slight power increase), and less weight. And in the case of a c900, 100000x easier to work on. Every c900 I have ever bought, the A/C is the first thing to go.
07-27-2009 06:56 AM
aireeca
Quote:
Originally Posted by 8valvegrowl View Post
Buy my MBC+A.

And I don't think any US market cars have heatplates. Only European market cars had them, to meet emissions standards.

Also, if you can stand to do it, remove your A/C.
I believe his is actually still working and has had some work done to it lately since the receiver drier is the new style.
07-27-2009 06:56 AM
Baz So who has removed their hood insulation?

Can you hear a noticeable difference in spool up noise?
07-27-2009 06:54 AM
J93O 8 valve, just curious...Why remove the A/C?
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