|06-05-2008 07:12 AM|
I think this is the motivation to start looking at installing a boost gauge in my 9-5 light switch position. Might have to buy one off eBay to get the nerve to start cutting. The install on a 9-5 is a little more involved than a 9-3, but using the 9-3 fog light switch for headlights is going to be the same. What did you use to connect the wiring from the harness to the new switch? Male/Female disconnects? Also, any tips on which pins are what for either 9-3 light switch or fog switch?
Also, just to add, that the OnStar button is similar to the Euro leveling switch in that it operates on Ohms. I use it as mute for hard wired V1.
|06-02-2008 01:18 PM|
For anyone wanting one of those Headlight Leveling switch, there is one up for sale on eBay UK (it actually comes with a number of switches (Fog, Dimmer, Headlight and Leveler) for 8 pounds or $15. You'll want to contact the guy first and make sure he'll ship to the US...all are normally willing:
Just found another....Leveler by itself:
|06-02-2008 10:24 AM|
|06-02-2008 09:18 AM|
|perkj||if you're concerned with the AMPs, you may want to put an in-line fuse going from the hot line into the switch, this way you'll blow the fuse before melting the switch internals.|
|06-02-2008 08:34 AM|
I figured out the pin out for passing signal.
Was having a hard time getting the light to come one. My real concern was AMPs...
|06-01-2008 09:11 PM|
|06-01-2008 05:27 PM|
|PoisonBeef||still wondering on those switch pin outs.... I have guessed, and may be right...|
|06-01-2008 04:27 PM|
|perkj||Exactly as NahumCC said|
|06-01-2008 03:35 PM|
Your welcome. When you do it go a little at a time as you can leave a little bit of the lip to hold it tight in place. Thats what I did instead of using the brace bar that comes with the gauges.
|06-01-2008 03:25 PM|
|06-01-2008 03:20 PM|
|06-01-2008 01:32 PM|
|jk88||was the boost gauge a perfect fit in the hole left by the headlight switch?|
|05-31-2008 12:41 PM|
|PoisonBeef||Wondering what the stock gauges that you reused had for pin outs. Any idea on how many amps they can/I should run through them?|
|05-31-2008 07:12 AM|
looks like 200-205 is about operating under normal driving. Seen it hit 210 under a couple WOT runs. Keep in mind I'm pulling the oil temp from a sandwich plate at the oil filter vs a tap into the oil pan which is a bit more accurate
|05-30-2008 01:39 PM|
|sleet||ahhhhh i gotcha.|
|05-30-2008 01:25 PM|
To further clarify, the zSeries have the "around the dial" lighting which means the green light is shined on the outside of the dial and then the light is reflexed off the numbers where as the GS Series has "thru the dial" lighting which the green light shines from behind through the numbers.
So when I say the GS Series is more Factory like is because the stock gauge panel is "thru the dial lighting", where as say in my old VWs the "around the dial" was the better match
...its an attention to detail thing
|05-30-2008 09:24 AM|
not the best picture but you can see the boost gauge up in the left side and the two down in the ash tray area. the 2 in the ash tray were brand new and after a while it will slightly darken like the boost gauge and looks almost identical to stock lighting.
|05-30-2008 08:19 AM|
Man even after rebate those aren't cheap. I was thinking about with how nice they looked about replacing my ultra lite series with these.....but damn.
|05-30-2008 08:02 AM|
On those zSeries, what I meant was that it doesn't have green backlight thru the numbers like the factory gauges.
Again awesome job on the pod!
|05-29-2008 08:15 PM|
|codesplice||Very clean installs - nice work! Love the switches too|
|This thread has more than 20 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|