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Thread: Tutorial: Removing Mesh from Air Sensor Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-09-2005 01:17 PM
ng900 Mine did the same, but it did it when I put in the intake system, before I had removed the mesh. It hasn't changed since I removed the mesh.
05-09-2005 01:11 PM
rcmdesign Ok. Update: Well, not sure if this is directly related to removing the mesh, but my MPG has dropped to 19.4, where it used to sit at 21 or 22 or so...
04-14-2005 06:12 AM
ng900 Makes you wish you could replace the AMM doesn't it?
04-14-2005 05:37 AM
rcmdesign Coming from a very reliable source I'd say they have proof somewhere or else wouldn't have said it
04-14-2005 04:48 AM
driver found Is there any proof at all of those numbers (half, quarter, etc.)?
04-13-2005 06:01 PM
rcmdesign Ok I found a web site talking about this mesh material.

It says: "a hot-wire airflow meter contains a very fine heated wire strung across the intake path. Immediately up and downstream of the hot-wire is a wire mesh screen, which serves to protect the hot-wire during servicing. From a flow point of view, these screens are a major hindrance. Depending on the diameter of the meter and the engine's power output, they can be responsible for about a quarter of the restriction through a factory intake; the screens typically cause half the restriction across the meter, and the meter itself is responsible for around half the overall intake restriction.

it does says: However, you need to realise that you are tampering with the device that measures intake air mass, so the meter's output may be altered a little. It's therefore a good idea to check mixtures before and after removing the screen(s).
04-13-2005 07:39 AM
ng900 Yeah, I do it to engine brake a bit, but the other reason is that I can wait to shift the car when I want, driving it into higher rpm zones while racing. Unfortunately, when I hit the sport button, which does the same thing, it has a tendency to let the rpms head into the red before shifting, which even I know isn't good for the engine. So I compromise. I start with sport mode on as I take off to get a little better initial kick (although I'm not sure if it makes a difference), and then as it passes 4000 rpm I hit the sport button off and take over shifting from there. It's worked pretty well, and several people I've talked to, including a couple mechanics, one who is a machinist, all said it shouldn't harm the trans. Besides, my mom destroyed the last trans (and engine with it) and she never dropped below drive on the shifter (takes a special breed of person to care so poorly for a car that even a Saab will stop working). It was so bad, if I tried to downshift, the check gearbox light would go on and the car would stall, every time. That cost me 6000 to replace the engine and trans. Actually, the place where I took it (they did an outstanding job), told me I actually have a 96 engine and trans in my 95 car, and even though my car is over 100k now, the engine and trans are only at about 80k.
04-13-2005 07:29 AM
abdukted1456 you probably will wear it down quicker. But the gears are there to use. mostly like going down hill you can drop into 3 or 2 depending on your speed to let the engine do some braking, so your brakes don't overheat on a steep downhill...
04-13-2005 07:05 AM
rcmdesign Wait you have an automatic, and you use the manual option on the shifter? I didn't that that was too safe for the tranny...
04-13-2005 07:00 AM
ng900 Mine has actually gone up just a bit, but that could be the result of any number of things, one of which is I'm shifting my auto like it's a manual, that seems to improve mpg, although I have no idea why. All I know is it jumped up over 1mpg when I started doing that.
04-13-2005 06:48 AM
rcmdesign I was worried about a drop in MPG also, I have been carefully watching my MPG meter since I removed it...I'll keep you posted...
04-13-2005 06:26 AM
DeLorean by "problems" the only problem that I would expect it to cause is maybe a SLIGHT drop in MPG or an intermittent CEL light- if anything at all. like I said, one of 3 things, but the most likely thing is that NOTHING at all will happen.
04-13-2005 06:13 AM
ng900 There's no way removing that mesh could mess up the AMM, it's not connected to anything, it just sits in the end of it. I've had mine out for at least a couple months now and I haven't had a single problem.
04-13-2005 05:43 AM
abdukted1456 I would rather safety or reliability than 0.6 HP.
04-13-2005 05:11 AM
driver found
Originally Posted by ng900
Makes sense, I think VW's use Bosch sensors just like Saabs.
It's quite nearly the same unit, but reads on a different scale.

BTW, my point was that this *wasn't* proof, since it was such a small number that it didn't really fall outside the variance you might expect on a series of dyno runs.
04-12-2005 01:32 PM
rcmdesign Well then there's proof, it's solved now, it's not bad for the engine or sensor and can actually increase HP!
04-12-2005 12:24 PM
ng900 Makes sense, I think VW's use Bosch sensors just like Saabs.
04-12-2005 12:11 PM
driver found FWIW, I witnessed back-to-back testing on a VW motor (a 1993 12 valve VR6) that might be of some interest.

We did three runs stock, then removed that screen (VR6's have a MAF with the same screen in it) and did three more runs. Took the average of each set of runs, and there was a 0.6 hp increase from removing the screen.

IMHO, that's *well* within the variation you might expect on dyno runs.
04-11-2005 03:46 PM
rcmdesign That's what I said, but a lot of turbo guys like to over-react about modifications to a Saab
04-11-2005 03:29 PM
ng900 I agree. That thick mesh had to be hampering air flow at least a little.
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