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Thread: T7 No Start After Dash Swap Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
09-30-2019 07:06 AM
SS929k
Quote:
Originally Posted by Troup View Post
Update on this issue.

I was able to get the car started! When we pulled the original dash, the stereo wiring got bundled up and pushed out of the way. Either my or my brother's shoddy wiring job with the aftermarket stereo adapter harness wasn't properly insulated and was shorting out. I cut out the harness and insulated the wires and communication among the BUS systems came back.

Such a silly issue that completely paralyzed the car for almost a year. (Although in the total time it was down, I spent about an hour actually trying to fix it).

Very happy to have it back on the road. Thanks for all the replys in trying to help fix it.
Very happy that we could help and a Saab gets to stay on the road.
12-04-2018 06:44 AM
Troup Update on this issue.

I was able to get the car started! When we pulled the original dash, the stereo wiring got bundled up and pushed out of the way. Either my or my brother's shoddy wiring job with the aftermarket stereo adapter harness wasn't properly insulated and was shorting out. I cut out the harness and insulated the wires and communication among the BUS systems came back.

Such a silly issue that completely paralyzed the car for almost a year. (Although in the total time it was down, I spent about an hour actually trying to fix it).

Very happy to have it back on the road. Thanks for all the replys in trying to help fix it.
09-13-2018 07:23 AM
SS929k
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrewP View Post
DICE needs the VIN number for the car programmed into it when you swap in a used one. You also have to make sure the body configuration matches (2-dr, 3-dr, etc.)
Any module within the cars functionality needs to be programmed in it seems. This makes sens for a car that is 2000 and up. A lot of new and exciting technology has been implemented in cars.
08-27-2018 12:24 PM
DrewP DICE needs the VIN number for the car programmed into it when you swap in a used one. You also have to make sure the body configuration matches (2-dr, 3-dr, etc.)
08-23-2018 07:32 PM
SS929k With GM being behind the wheel of these cars manufacturing process I would assume yes but I could be wrong. If you have a TechII there isn't any harm in trying but while you are looking for that I would still suggest to check that the plugs are in the correct slots and that there are not any broken or cut wires.
08-23-2018 09:35 AM
Troup
Quote:
Originally Posted by SS929k View Post
Hey,

Yesterday I had an issue with some modules not being read from a TechII yesterday after I had changed some sound system wires. I think your issue may be harness related of relay related based off of my experience.

When I brought my car to a mechanic yesterday to run a scan with his TechII he told me that some of my modules were not being read from his TechII.

Play with the wiring harness a bit and make sure that you don't have some of the plugs that clip into the bottom of the fuse box in the wring slots. Also make sure that some of the important fuses are not blown.
So you have an aftermarket stereo and fooled with the wiring which led to BUS communication issues?

This car has an aftermarket head unit with some iffy wiring.

What did you guys do to fix it?
08-23-2018 09:32 AM
Troup I'm looking for cheap DICE to try. Does it need to be married with the TechII?

My research says no.
08-22-2018 06:52 AM
SS929k Hey,

Yesterday I had an issue with some modules not being read from a TechII yesterday after I had changed some sound system wires. I think your issue may be harness related of relay related based off of my experience.

When I brought my car to a mechanic yesterday to run a scan with his TechII he told me that some of my modules were not being read from his TechII.

Play with the wiring harness a bit and make sure that you don't have some of the plugs that clip into the bottom of the fuse box in the wring slots. Also make sure that some of the important fuses are not blown.
08-16-2018 01:47 PM
DrewP I only ever had to replace a DICE module I think once, but it was for something like this, no communication with some modules, random driveability problems or no starts.

Since you can code the modules that's probably a good place to start before spending endless additional time without being able to rule those out.
08-16-2018 12:11 PM
Troup
Quote:
Originally Posted by g96nt View Post
re-reading your post, it sounds like it could be similar to what I just dealt with in my 900.

I hit a bump, and the car died. flat. ded. ECU read alive and well when "on", and fuel pump got voltage. I was watching the tach bounce, and all sensors read correctly, even while cranking, but no start. it would occasionally sputter for a second, but die out. I assumed it was a dead Fuel pump. after trying everything, including trying to jump the immobilizer (possible on T5), I got frustrated-enough to send 'er off to Harvey. It turned-out that my immobilizer/twice/whatever had a handful of cold solder joints, and after simply re-soldering the spots, all is well.

Does this car have issues with the sunroof draining, or the elephant snout?
It's timing could just be coincidental.
I've had the same thought about this being a coincidence. Signs point to a bad TWICE or DICE module. But that would be a really annoying coincidence. I'd have a hard time accepting it.


The car actually had AC drain issues leading the rear footwell flooding. (similar to what happens with the sunroof drains). However, that was in 2015 ish and have put many miles on the car since then.


I have the tech2, so it may be worth a shot to try a new TWICE
08-16-2018 11:55 AM
g96nt re-reading your post, it sounds like it could be similar to what I just dealt with in my 900.

I hit a bump, and the car died. flat. ded. ECU read alive and well when "on", and fuel pump got voltage. I was watching the tach bounce, and all sensors read correctly, even while cranking, but no start. it would occasionally sputter for a second, but die out. I assumed it was a dead Fuel pump. after trying everything, including trying to jump the immobilizer (possible on T5), I got frustrated-enough to send 'er off to Harvey. It turned-out that my immobilizer/twice/whatever had a handful of cold solder joints, and after simply re-soldering the spots, all is well.

Does this car have issues with the sunroof draining, or the elephant snout?
It's timing could just be coincidental.
08-16-2018 10:47 AM
DrewP I believe the MIU is required for the car to run on T7 cars (definitely on T, it controls a lot of the CANBUS stuff. You need to have correctly programmed ECM, BCM, TWICE, and I think MIU. The VIN #'s in all of those need to match the VIN in BCM, and they all need to be communicating with each other (viewable in Tech2).
08-16-2018 10:04 AM
SS929k I would assume since the ECU doesn't see the immobilizer, a fail safe would be for the ECU to trigger a non start.
08-15-2018 10:45 AM
DrewP Do all the other CAN modules still show as missing? When you swap the DICE unit you will need to go into it and I think program the VIN number to match the car and the ECM, otherwise it'll immobilize the car too.
08-15-2018 09:18 AM
SS929k Theft device missing? I think that would cause the car not to start. Do you have the theft device? Is that married to the car? I thought everything needs to be married to the ECU.
08-14-2018 07:56 AM
Troup I had a chance to mess around with it again last week. I tried to reprogram the immobilizer without any luck.

I talked with a Saab shop about this issue and it seems like T7 should be able to start the car with all of the accessories (SID, Airbag, AC, etc.) disconnected. So even if I did disturb a connector or something like that, is that really going to keep it from starting? In my 9-5 wagon, I installed an aftermarket head unit, so the Radio / Infotainment BUS is missing on it, but doesn't cause any issues with T7.

I checked fuses once again as well verified that the grounds behind the dash are firmly attached. I think my next step is trying another DICE box.
03-31-2018 10:09 AM
avid0g Go back to all the electrical connectors you have *disturbed*, even if you didn't disconnect them. Check both male and female shells. Disconnect and inspect each end very closely. Borrow strong reading glasses.

Are any contacts retracted / bent / corroded / green / powdery? It is normal to find some tin colored and some copper colored

DON'T PINCH THE PINS WITH PLYERS! Some are hollow and will crush thinner, ruining their contact force. You may find such a crushed pin.

You should have an equal number in each mating pair. Any mismatch should be a retracted connector. When you find such, try pushing each wire in until the missing one snaps into place. If it doesn't retain, it will just get pushed out again. I have adjusted the snap tabs with a razor blade, but be gentle - just a slight bend out. Push the silicon plugs in with a blunt tool like curled cardboard.

Do any pins or receptacles move much more than the others when you push on them or push on individual wires? (pull on wires gently !)

Did any wires pull out of the crimp? Again gently. You are looking for an outlier, not trying to cause more damage.
01-10-2018 11:29 AM
DrewP It getting keyed on with some of the modules unplugged will sometimes do it, low battery voltage will sometimes do it.
01-10-2018 04:54 AM
Troup
Quote:
Originally Posted by seriks1 View Post
If you press "enter" on the tech2 a couple times you should be able to skip past the bus communication page. Try to access the TWICE and you should find an option to program immobilizer. There's a security ""wait" time (I think 4 minutes) and the programming takes a few more so make sure your battery still has a good charge
I went through some function that required a wait time. I don't even recall what it was. I'll have to play around with it some more.

What causes the car to become immobilized?
01-09-2018 04:25 PM
seriks1 If you press "enter" on the tech2 a couple times you should be able to skip past the bus communication page. Try to access the TWICE and you should find an option to program immobilizer. There's a security ""wait" time (I think 4 minutes) and the programming takes a few more so make sure your battery still has a good charge
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