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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-30-2018 12:13 AM
Stiiiiiv That's a great tip. I'll have to think about it.

Actually, since it only has summer tires, I can't drive it for a couple of months anyway. I've got a used compressor on the way (should arrive tomorrow or the next day) and I downloaded Saab's WIS (a version that works with 64-bit operating systems) so I have a basic idea of what to do. After removing the old compressor, I plan on filling up the new (used) compressor with the correct amount of oil (if I can desifer the chart in WIS). Then I'll install it, all except for the electrical connection so it doesn't engage.

I'll do a cost analysis of whether it's worth doing the rest of the work done by a qualified mechanic or if It's worth it buying a vacuum pump and all the other equipment I need to test for leaks, repair them, and refill the refrigeration gas.
01-29-2018 09:33 AM
DrewP You can install the "short" belt that came on cars that did not have A/C from the factory since you won't need it until summer to get the car running. It bypasses the A/C compressor entirely. You're correct, replacing the compressor is a bit of a pain.

9-3 SE Short Belt With A/C Delete - SaabCentral Forums
01-29-2018 03:40 AM
Stiiiiiv Replacing the compressor is no fun. From what I've read, there's a ton of things that can go wrong when you do it yourself. I'm just going to remove the old one, empty the oil from the used replacement (if there is any oil in it), install it WITHOUT reconnecting the electricity, so the clutch won't engage (It's winter in Sweden so little risk that the ac will come on, but beter safe than sorry). Then I'll take it to a workshop that can test it for leaks then refill the oil and coolant.
01-28-2018 01:52 AM
Stiiiiiv I was wrong about the compressor. the clutch just turns part way before it too gets stuck, so I guess I'll be ordering a used compressor, but I can get one for about as cheap as bearings would cost. Now I just have to research how to remove the darn thing without breaking anything I'll need later.
01-27-2018 09:59 AM
Stiiiiiv I tried all your recommended checks today. Everything seemed to check out fine, but still it wouldn't turn over.

I'd just installed a new starter, which I knew worked, and I'd checked out the old one with booster cables and it worked too, so I connected up the old (working) starter in parallell and lay it beside the car. When I turned the key, the old starter did its thing to perfection. So that meant something was physically keeping the motor from turning over, and it wasn't the starter or any of the car's electronics.

I removed the passenger side front wheel and the plastic cover in the wheel well. Then I tried to turn the motor manually from the crankshaft pulley, but it was real sluggish. After removing the drive belt the crankshaft moved much easier, and when I turned the ignition it cranked and started right up. Next I checked all the pulleys the belt turns and discovered the one at the bottom front didn't budge, not even a smidgeon.

I'm pretty sure it's the ac compressor. The clutch still turned, so I take it that means I don't have to replace the whole compressor, just the bearings for the pulley. I'm hoping to find a way to remove the clutch and the pulley without removing the compressor.

Any idea where I can find the right sized bearings on line, preferably in Europe or the UK (I live in Sweden)?
01-26-2018 12:18 PM
Stiiiiiv Thank you for your prompt reply.

There were no new messages from the SID display on the dash, just an old reminder that the windshield washer fluid was low. I did plug the trim ring back in, but I'll recheck it when I continue this adventure tomorrow morning. Is it likely the ring could have been damaged when I removed it and then reassembled the center console? Are they very sensitive? If it's bad can it just be replaced or does it need to be coded for my key?

I'll check the voltage at the places you suggest as well tomorrow and post the results.

Thanks again for your helpful advice.

01-26-2018 11:29 AM
DrewP Do you get ant messages on the SID display on the dash?

Did you remember to plug the trim ring that goes around the ignition key back in? That is the antenna that reads the chip in the key to unlock the immobilizer. If it's immobilized or the chip is not being read correctly then the car doesn't let the starter run.

Can you measure the voltage at the large lug on the starter while you try to crank it? When you turn and hold the key, if the voltage drops down to 8-9v when you hold the key to "start" then the starter is either bad, seized, or something in the engine is seizing, or the ground connection from the battery to the engine block is disconnected or bad.

If you see steady 12v at the starter and hear nothing happen, then probe on the smaller diameter (I think it's yellow) wire. That's the switch that turns the starter on. When you turn and hold the key that lug should receive +12v. If you get 12v at the starter solenoid lug and it doesn't turn, then the starter is bad. If you get 0v then the neutral safety switch isn't correctly bypassed, or the car is immobilized and isn't powering the starter, or it's possible the ignition switch is bad. If you get 8-9v then (as above) something is likely seized or the starter is failing and is jammed up.
01-26-2018 09:33 AM
2004 saab 9-5 combi won't crank


Just bought a fixer-upper 2004 Saab 9-5 automatic combi as a first car for my daughter who is taking her driver's license.

The car had a broken multi-belt and a dead battery when I bought it. Replaced the belt, charged the battery and drove the car home.

Then I proceeded to clean the pet-and-cigarette-smoke damaged interior, shampooing and vacuuming/washing the upholstery and removing much of the center consol to clean it (I removed the outer plastic casing around the ignition switch).

When I put it all together again, the weather had gotten real cold, and the car wouldn't start. Tried recharging the battery and even replacing it. Didn't help. All I got when I turned the key, both before and after the battery change, was a whirr and click for about a half second from under the driver's side of the hood (transmission?? or starter?? but not the engine).

After many attempts I finally got it to start, once. I kept it running while I removed the clogged interior cabin air filter in -10C weather. Then I accidentally bumped the key. The engine cut out and I couldn't restart it.

I've since tried repeatedly locking and unlocking with the key's remote buttons before starting. I've read this resets the anti-theft, if that was the problem. It didn't help.

The gear shift keeps locking up in "Park" and I have to push in the button beside it with a screwdriver to unlock it, since I wanted to try to start it in "Neutral" instead of "Park". Perhaps it's supposed to lock until the motor is running (I don't know, it's ages since I drove an automatic). It doesn't start in "Neutral".

I then tried bypassing the Neutral Safety Switch. When I try to start it with the bypass, the dash lights light up, but there's no whirr and click from under the hood. There's no sound at all from under the hood. Next I bought a cheap used starter and am in the process of replacing the old one, but stopped for the night. I'm not convinced the problem is with the starter, but it was dirt cheap, and I'm grasping at straws here.

Any ideas what my problem might be? Could it be the starter, or the ignition switch, or some other sensor? I really want to give this car to my daughter, but right now, it's just a dead pile of metal, plastic, glass and paint. Any suggestions would be most helpful.

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