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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-01-2018 06:43 AM
ChangeAgent I like to share the tool I made to remove the lid. They are 4 pieces of wood of which two fit in the holes in the black ring. I keep them put together by two glue clamps. This allows you to exactly adjust to the right size. One is longer to have leverage. Works a dream.

And since picture tell more than a 1000 words…

Saab petrol gauge removal tool Pictures, Saab petrol gauge removal tool Images, Saab petrol gauge removal tool Photos, Saab petrol gauge removal tool Videos - Image - TinyPic - Free Image Hosting, Photo Sharing & Video Hosting
08-21-2017 02:08 AM
ChangeAgent
forgot to tick email notification box

sorry.
08-18-2017 11:06 AM
ChangeAgent
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrewP View Post
You do not need to do anything when you replace the pump. Be careful not to break the retaining clips that hold the fuel lines into the top of the pump housing.

The retaining ring has right-hand (regular) threads, turn counter-clockwise to remove.
Ta Drew, very helpful.
08-18-2017 10:31 AM
DrewP You do not need to do anything when you replace the pump. Be careful not to break the retaining clips that hold the fuel lines into the top of the pump housing.

The retaining ring has right-hand (regular) threads, turn counter-clockwise to remove.
08-17-2017 11:06 PM
ChangeAgent Does anybody you know this?

do you need to do something in the computer when you change the pump (I found a post about a diesel Saab where they say you need too, but could just be a diesel).

Secondly I read once somewhere (I am surfing the www looking for information) that the retaining ring is left handed. I only found this refernce once. Can anybody tell me if it is indeed left-handed thread? I could not see any reason for it, but eh in Sweden things are different.

Thanks.
08-17-2017 10:54 PM
ChangeAgent
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trionic3000 View Post
It looks like you're looking for

Tank Empty: 50 +- 1.5 Ohms
Tank Full: 425 +- 6.5 Ohms
Thanks Trionic3000

I suppose it is the thinner red thread in the connector block? correct?
08-17-2017 10:51 PM
ChangeAgent
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrewP View Post
There is a 4 pin connector going into the pump housing. The two larger gauge wires power the pump, and the two thinner small gauge wires are from the level sensor. The level sensor puts out a variable resistance as the fuel level changes. Unplug the connector and put an ohm meter across the two small wires for the level sender and measure the resistance. If it is either zero or very high (or infinity, the meter will show "OL" for "overload") then the level sender is bad.

The level sender is built into the pump housing so you will need a new one if you have to replace it. I don't think they sell the level sender individually, you have the buy the complete pump housing.
Thanks Drew, and sorry for the slow reply somehow I do not get an email when someone posts.
08-17-2017 05:44 PM
Trionic3000 It looks like you're looking for

Tank Empty: 50 +- 1.5 Ohms
Tank Full: 425 +- 6.5 Ohms

08-17-2017 10:44 AM
DrewP There is a 4 pin connector going into the pump housing. The two larger gauge wires power the pump, and the two thinner small gauge wires are from the level sensor. The level sensor puts out a variable resistance as the fuel level changes. Unplug the connector and put an ohm meter across the two small wires for the level sender and measure the resistance. If it is either zero or very high (or infinity, the meter will show "OL" for "overload") then the level sender is bad.

The level sender is built into the pump housing so you will need a new one if you have to replace it. I don't think they sell the level sender individually, you have the buy the complete pump housing.
08-16-2017 11:48 PM
ChangeAgent Thanks adidas 007 good info! Especially the link.

Do you know this part of my question?

"Is there a way to check if it is the float/sensor in the tank? Because, if that is faulty, it is not the indicator in the dashboard."

And do you know if you need to do something in the computer when you change the pump (I found a post about a diesel Saab where they say you need too, but could just be a diesel).

Thanks.
08-16-2017 07:07 PM
adidas_007 yes yes & yes, you can make a removal tool. I made one from a piece of pvc that was the same size and notched it to match the black ring. if you internet it you'll find repair guides. Fuel Pump Replacement - Step 1

What I did was remove the fuse for the fuel pump, then run the engine till it stops, to get as much fuel out of the system as possible.

I don't if there is a fix for the fuel sending level, but you can fix/ upgrade the fuel pump cylinder its self with a new fuel pump.
08-16-2017 07:20 AM
ChangeAgent
Fuel gauge problems

I have a in the EU registered Saab 9.5 Turbo (petrol, 1985cc) that was first registered in 2004.

My fuel indictor has failed. It shows full all times. Now in my humble opinion it is either the indicator on the dashboard or the float/sensor in the tank.

Is there a way to check if it is the float/sensor in the tank? Because, if that is faulty, it is not the indicator in the dashboard.

Next has anybody have any experience in changing it? It looks like one can do it from the top (no need to drop the exhaust and tank) through the hole under the backseat.

There is a big plastic black ring there which I suppose holds down the pump and float/sensor assembly. Correct? I suspect it has a type of screw fitting, in other words one can turn it to remove the float/sensor and the pump. Correct? And if it does turn does one need a special tool to get it out? Or how does one do this?

Are the float/sensor and the pump one unit? In other words do you need to change both at the same time or are they separately changeable?

Any other tips or suggestions?

A good place to source the parts needed?

Many thanks for engaging.

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