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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-25-2016 11:21 AM
turbojohnny I went out to look at my car on my lunch break and inspected the slave cylinder/throwout bearing. There is a little bit of room to push the bearing closer to the trans, but it looks like it's just about maxed out.

I was planning to have my flywheel machined anyway, so I'm not really concerned about having them shave off a little more.
05-25-2016 06:06 AM
turbojohnny I guess one way to tell would be to open up the top inspection cover on the trans in my 900 and see if I can push the throwout bearing back any more than it already is.
05-25-2016 05:46 AM
Drew in Houston Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the Pp pushes back against the bearing face, compressing the cylinder and there's light contact continously on the stock setup, just not loaded--the slave cylinder is spring loaded and presses against the Pp fingers full time, there's no air gap normall I don't think. That's based on the fact that hydraulic fluid squishes out when a transmission is bolted to an engine.

I guess the question is whether there's enough slop there in the slave cylinder travel for things to act normally--but we never explicitly measured that clearance. I.e. as long as the slave cylinder isn't bottomed out with the additional 0.05, then I think all should act as normal with respect to t-out bearing wear. Btw, Fastenal sells hardened precision shim washers.
05-24-2016 07:04 PM
turbojohnny what about the fingers on the pressure plate coming into contact with the throwout bearing?
won't the shims bring the fingers further out possibly causing premature disengagement/incomplete engagement of the clutch?
05-24-2016 06:54 PM
Drew in Houston Another option, you could consider shimming the PP out instead of getting it machined. Less pain and then when it wears you can try removing the shims--or adjust things to suit how you want it to feel. Something to think about anyway.

It takes a little time but you can remove/add shims with the transmission installed through where the access cover fits.
05-24-2016 04:59 PM
turbojohnny I brought both discs home with me. the Spec disc is indeed 5 hundredths (.050")of an inch thicker than factory. So tomorrow I'll try to drop off a flywheel at the local napa machine shop to have it machined down.
05-24-2016 04:40 AM
turbojohnny I'm not sure if it was earlier in this thread or in a different thread elsewhere, but I had read about someone having issues with not being able to disengage the clutch.

The guy at Spec very specifically mentioned that I would need to machine .050" off the face of my flywheel to accommodate the thicker clutch disc. I didn't bring my caliper to work with me today. I'll try to remember to morrow to measure the thickness of the stock disc vs. the SPEC disc.
05-24-2016 04:35 AM
g96nt looks strangely familiar to the disc I pulled from the 9000.
I haven't pulled the plastic back on the 3+ for the 9-3, though.

I hope not.. that thing was super pain in the ass.
05-24-2016 03:46 AM
bogan yeowwwww...

Looks good...You will love it..
05-23-2016 08:59 AM
turbojohnny here it is. the 3+ disc
It is definitely heavier than, and thicker than a factory disc.

05-20-2016 04:57 PM
Drew in Houston
Originally Posted by turbojohnny View Post
seeing that eEuro sells a brand new viggen clutch disc for $200 I don't think that $300 for a spec 3+ disc is all that bad.

Genuine SAAB Clutch Disc 5174933 - Free Shipping
Yeah for sure. If they're really upgrading the PP, then I'm excited, it's worth it. If they're painting it a different color and claiming something that isn't true than not so much.

If they have a kit with legitimate upgraded clamping force and a mildly aggressive disk that doesn't clank around or wear out in 10k miles I'll buy one..

I think if the pedal pressure doesn't require more effort, and they're not moving the pivot ring or modifying that, then they're full of it. What you wrote here makes me hopeful, but the experience I had before with SPEC was that their customer service engineer was an absolute flaming asshole when there was clearly problems with their bogus product.
05-17-2016 10:51 AM
turbojohnny seeing that eEuro sells a brand new viggen clutch disc for $200 I don't think that $300 for a spec 3+ disc is all that bad.

Genuine SAAB Clutch Disc 5174933 - Free Shipping
05-17-2016 10:41 AM
g96nt $300 for a disc isn't really a deal.... but whatever.
It's not $860 like I paid for the 3+.
That being said, I got a brand-new PP, disc, and slave cyl.
Not sure what their markup on a slave cyl is, but eeuro's better brand is $122.
Their Sachs Viggen PP is only $113!!!
So, new slave, new PP, and new disc for ~$550 isn't terrible.
05-17-2016 10:29 AM
turbojohnny I'm going to forgo the local clutch shop. $299 for a stage 3+ disc seems like a fair deal.

this and a Viggen PP is what I will run.
05-17-2016 10:22 AM
turbojohnny and...

The st2 is not good for an aggressively driven Viggen at that power level. Stage 2+, 3 and 3+ are great, the 3+ being the flagship. With a good, strong Viggen plate and our disc, you should be within your output. Just keep in mind our discs are thicker than stock, so you would have to machine an extra .050 off the disc surface of the flywheel if you do not buy our kit with pressure plate.
this guy has been rather helpful
05-17-2016 08:56 AM
turbojohnny response

I see. It is not, as ours is modified for quite a bit extra load. Years ago, we were only about 200-300 psi stronger than the SACHS. Now our unit is 800 psi stronger, with an option of 1300 extra (over the SE/Hot factory unit). When comparing to the stock Viggen, we are 400 psi stronger standard. How much tq are you trying to hold ?
to which I replied

wow, that is good to hear. I'm not going to be running a lot of torque out of this engine. but it should be pushing upwards of 400-450 or so ft./lbs. of torque

I've heard great things about the stage 3+ clutch discs, but not such great things about the stage 2 discs.

what would you advise?
05-17-2016 08:16 AM
Drew in Houston Hmm, it would be cool if they really do have an uprated PP. The thickness would be different if they had thicker springs and didn't remove friction surface, it's not likely they're moving the pivot due to safety concerns--although possible I guess. Anxiously waiting.
05-17-2016 07:24 AM
turbojohnny well I sent an email to spec last night.

Obviously I don't have a viggen, but I didn't want to confuse the guy.

Comment clutch disc

Name: John

Email: johndudek****@*****.com

I have a 1999 saab 9-3 Viggen. I would like to purchase the stage 3+ clutch disc. I do not need a new pressure plate. where can I buy just the disc?
His response...

Certainly. would the disc be used with our pressure plate or a stocker ? (need to know b/c the thickness is different, but can make it either way).



From: Spec Clutch Web Site [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Monday, May 16, 2016 8:17 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Spec Contact Form
So in response to this I told him that I initially was not interested in the spec PP because I was under the impression that it was just a painted factory unit.
I also asked him what the difference was between their plate and the oem plate.

We shall see what he says.
05-17-2016 03:20 AM
g96nt 6 is fine, as long as it's sprung.

Losing surface area of the friction disc is really the best way to up torque limit if you want a stock feel. When you get into these fancy friction materials you tend to really lose drivability.

The stage-3 in the 9000 was pretty rough. It had what felt like a metal friction disc.
05-17-2016 02:27 AM
turbojohnny I will run a Viggen PP, I'm pretty sure between my friend and I we have one or two kicking around.

I do not want a 6 puck disc, I would prefer to use more of an oem type configuration. I've heard a lot of bad things about puck clutches, mostly on tsl ans sc.
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