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Thread: Having Trouble Getting the Viggen Started After the Rebuild Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-18-2014 04:25 PM
Tboy Congrats.
08-18-2014 12:00 PM
rl0089 Car is running! Loose grounds by fuel injector. Thank you all for the help!
08-15-2014 08:06 AM
rl0089 Took that pack out and began removing relays to see which were making the noise. Discovered two grey Bosch relays on the right hand side were responsible, one a loud buzz, the other a less loud clicking. Anyone know what these relays are for?
08-15-2014 07:39 AM
rl0089 I have no idea how to embed youtube videos, but here's the link to the buzz.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wmOCI...ature=youtu.be
08-15-2014 07:37 AM
srp
Quote:
Originally Posted by DC_SAAB View Post
I would not be surprised to find out you may have blown the DIC when reconnected after turning it over without it... My guess is that you probably plugged the DIC back in while the key was still in on position.. just enough to blow it.

I found out the hard way after buying a DIC and forgot to turn the key in the off position before plugging it back in. The DIC is pretty sensitive and with the key in the on position.. while plugging it back up, it blows the DIC every time.
Really? That would suck. This is the first time I've ever heard that.
08-15-2014 07:29 AM
rl0089
Quote:
Originally Posted by DC_SAAB View Post
I would not be surprised to find out you may have blown the DIC when reconnected after turning it over without it... My guess is that you probably plugged the DIC back in while the key was still in on position.. just enough to blow it.

I found out the hard way after buying a DIC and forgot to turn the key in the off position before plugging it back in. The DIC is pretty sensitive and with the key in the on position.. while plugging it back up, it blows the DIC every time.
Tried my back up DIC and same no start issue. Checked the plugs, gap and put plenty of dielectric grease on each.

On a separate but maybe related note, I have an on and off buzzing coming from behind the plastic panel below the steering wheel. It sounds and feels like (vibrations) it's coming from a pack of harness plugs right behind that cover. I'll try to put a pic or video up. Not sure if it's related by some electrical issue. Still stumped.
08-14-2014 07:54 PM
DC_SAAB I would not be surprised to find out you may have blown the DIC when reconnected after turning it over without it... My guess is that you probably plugged the DIC back in while the key was still in on position.. just enough to blow it.

I found out the hard way after buying a DIC and forgot to turn the key in the off position before plugging it back in. The DIC is pretty sensitive and with the key in the on position.. while plugging it back up, it blows the DIC every time.
08-14-2014 12:35 PM
oliversexpedition I build a test harness with the insulation stripped off at intervals so that I can wrap all 4 plugs at once and ground at one point.

ECU and twice unit, correct voltage thru ignition switch?

Quote:
Originally Posted by rl0089 View Post
So I have to ask because I have never checked for spark before. Do all 4 plugs need to be in and do all 4 need to be grounded or can I do one at a time? I tried with one in and I had no spark.

If spark is the issue, what would prevent spark from occurring? I have to find my back up DIC but the DIC in place is a brand new 2013 unit. The spark plugs are correct and brand new, just checked the gap before and are all perfect.

Any ideas?

Again, how do you check the cps? Thank you.
08-14-2014 11:21 AM
bergie check to make sure there are no pins in the DI connector plug pushed back or flattened/cut wires from the swap.

also that no oil or grime got into the connector.

checking cps is pulling di plug off and pulling fuel pump fuse and crank to see if your tach has a slight bounce to it.
08-14-2014 11:13 AM
rl0089 So I have to ask because I have never checked for spark before. Do all 4 plugs need to be in and do all 4 need to be grounded or can I do one at a time? I tried with one in and I had no spark.

If spark is the issue, what would prevent spark from occurring? I have to find my back up DIC but the DIC in place is a brand new 2013 unit. The spark plugs are correct and brand new, just checked the gap before and are all perfect.

Any ideas?

Again, how do you check the cps? Thank you.
08-13-2014 04:21 PM
rl0089 Tried using starter fluid. For a split second, the first time we tried starting the car it sounded like it would catch but still nothing. Going to check spark next when I have the time.
08-12-2014 12:23 PM
rl0089 So I replaced the CPS, still won't start. How much does the Tach move on start up? I can see it move maybe a millimeter or two. I checked my other car but its impossible to tell how much it should move when the car starts up immediately. I guess it could be a fuel issue but the pump was working before the rebuild. Frustrating!
08-11-2014 01:47 PM
rl0089
Quote:
Originally Posted by srp View Post
I believe its possible to to plug one of the O2 sensors into the CPS plug and vice versa.
That would prevent the engine from firing.

You could also wrap a rag by the fuel pressure test port on the fuel rail and press the valve with a small screw driver and see if any fuel sprays out, if it does that means your pressurized.
That will be the next thing I check. Makes sense since the tach isn't moving. Thank you!
08-11-2014 01:47 PM
rl0089
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tboy View Post
The tach not moving generally indicates a bad crank position sensor.

I'd double check timing, and I've mentioned this before, make sure you have the cams in the correct place. The exhaust cam is furthest forward in the engine, and it has a notch on then end where in past designs drove the distributor. My machinist swapped these once on me and we wasted a bunch of time trying to figure it out after a rebuild.

Check for fuel, do the plugs seen wet? If you can't hear the pump I'd pull a plug and look. You can also check for spark by setting the di up with plugs in and grounded with a wire.
Funny someone said the exact same thing on the other forum. I was pretty sure i had put them in correctly, then you reminded me of that notch and now I am 100% sure I did correctly, I remember the notch being on the forward cam.
08-11-2014 01:31 PM
srp I believe its possible to to plug one of the O2 sensors into the CPS plug and vice versa.
That would prevent the engine from firing.

You could also wrap a rag by the fuel pressure test port on the fuel rail and press the valve with a small screw driver and see if any fuel sprays out, if it does that means your pressurized.
08-11-2014 01:28 PM
Tboy The tach not moving generally indicates a bad crank position sensor.

I'd double check timing, and I've mentioned this before, make sure you have the cams in the correct place. The exhaust cam is furthest forward in the engine, and it has a notch on then end where in past designs drove the distributor. My machinist swapped these once on me and we wasted a bunch of time trying to figure it out after a rebuild.

Check for fuel, do the plugs seen wet? If you can't hear the pump I'd pull a plug and look. You can also check for spark by setting the di up with plugs in and grounded with a wire.
08-11-2014 01:23 PM
rl0089
Quote:
Originally Posted by srp View Post
Is the tach jumping when you crank?
Have you tested the DIC?
Do you hear the fuel pump prime if you turn the key to run and don't crank it?
Tach does not budge when attempting to start. What would that mean?

The DIC should be good, its brand new, but I'll check it tomorrow.

I try to listen for the fuel pump but I have that annoying acc fan making too much noise to hear anything. Something else behind the dash is also making an on and off buzzing noise that goes away with when the key goes to off. And the little fan never shuts off even after the key is out! But thats another issue! Just trying to get it started!
08-11-2014 11:17 AM
srp Is the tach jumping when you crank?
Have you tested the DIC?
Do you hear the fuel pump prime if you turn the key to run and don't crank it?
08-11-2014 09:57 AM
rl0089
Having Trouble Getting the Viggen Started After the Rebuild

So everything is finally in place with the Viggen rebuild.

I initially cranked it over a few times with the DIC off and the fuel pump fuse out. Now, I'm trying to start the motor with the DIC in and the fuel pump fuse back in place and all I get is continuous cranking of the engine. Everything sounds good, it will just not start!

A few things that I believe/believed could be the issue:

Timing Off - Just did a compression test and had great compression across all four cylinders so I am guessing this isn't it.

Compression Readings were: 1 - 210 psi, 2 - 220 psi, 3 - 220 psi, 4 - 210 psi

Battery - The battery light is on and the battery has been sitting since I bought the car over a year ago. However, after charging the battery the car cranks and all lights/fans go on. Could this be it?

Fuel - Was on Empty when I got the car and has been sitting like I said. Put 5 gallons of premium in the other day. Could it be bad gas in the lines?

Anything else? I'm looking over the entire engine bay each time I try to start it. I don't see any obvious vacuum leak anywhere. Could it be a loose or bad electrical connection somewhere? Maybe the fuel pump? The car would start without any issues when I got the car last July. Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated!

Rob

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