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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-18-2013 08:50 PM
oliversexpedition Great news! Glad you were about to figure it out. Not an easy one to reason out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BusJunky View Post
After making this post I found that the car had sat for 4 years prior to the person I bought it off of. Apparently mice had several nest in the engine bay. All of which were cleaned up before I got it. I began going thru all the wiring and found the problem in the fuel pump compartment. Even tho the pump itself was still functioning, there was a small white wire with a black stripe that had been chewed threw. It was past the visable part down into where the harness was factory tapped. The car runs great now!!
08-18-2013 08:35 PM
BusJunky After making this post I found that the car had sat for 4 years prior to the person I bought it off of. Apparently mice had several nest in the engine bay. All of which were cleaned up before I got it. I began going thru all the wiring and found the problem in the fuel pump compartment. Even tho the pump itself was still functioning, there was a small white wire with a black stripe that had been chewed threw. It was past the visable part down into where the harness was factory tapped. The car runs great now!!
08-16-2013 08:58 AM
Saabeh Where are you located?
08-16-2013 08:26 AM
tapper If that's the case I know on my 1999 audi a4. When I had a bad throttle and changed it it required a vagcom adaptation in order to fully reset everything.. I'm not sure if tech2 has a capability like that or not but on the audi not even pulling the battery and fuses for a day would help.. If wiring is good and its an immediate response in the on position that to me is the ecu remembering there is a problem
08-16-2013 08:04 AM
tapper When you turn the key to the ON position it switches to lhm before even cranking it?
08-16-2013 07:10 AM
BusJunky The only codes now are p1230 p1231
08-16-2013 06:17 AM
BusJunky The moment I clear the codes at the obd2 port(which the key has to be on in order to link) the moment the codes clear the engine begins to click and sure enough it's already back in limp mode before I can even try to start it. Like I said, man. I'm losing my mind lol.
08-16-2013 05:14 AM
ninehundredt
Quote:
Originally Posted by BusJunky View Post
Yeah that's a diverter valve I thought. Mine blew the intake tube right off the throttle body lol. I had to go back and give it a few more crank downs haha. Problem is the moment I clear the codes or turn the key it clicks it into limp mode. There's no chance of even starting it outside of limp mode.
It's going into LHM during crank? It might help if you post the diagnostic codes here.
08-15-2013 09:27 PM
BusJunky Yeah that's a diverter valve I thought. Mine blew the intake tube right off the throttle body lol. I had to go back and give it a few more crank downs haha. Problem is the moment I clear the codes or turn the key it clicks it into limp mode. There's no chance of even starting it outside of limp mode.
08-15-2013 07:17 PM
ninehundredt I've had similar symptoms from my charge bypass valve popping loose from the intake tube, but that was fairly obvious. Someone a little more knowledgeable will probably chime in. Welcome to the link!
08-15-2013 06:45 PM
BusJunky
Limp home blues..

Ok i picked up a very nice 95 2.3t for my wife. It's a 2000 and I believe the engine code to be b235e. Initially it had a bad turbo and would throw itself into lhm the moment the turbo began to spool. Having had the same issue with some of my other cars at times, I thought nothing of it. Ordered a gt17 rebuild kit and rebuilt and balanced the turbo. Installed it and BAM!! Like 10 codes. Well I eliminated a handful of them and kept getting the p1230 and p1231 codes. So I started reading up on them. Pretty much read every single thread on this site about lhm. I've manually reset my tb about 40 times now. I've tried clearing the codes ahead of time. Tried clearing them after I reset it. Tried removing the battery positive cable and resetting. Tried fuse #17 and resetting. Tried all of the above options in every possible order, whether it was pulling the fuse, clearing the code, unhooking the battery first, and THEN restting the tb or resetting the tb then unhooking fuses battery's or code clearing.. Ugh. So I deemed my throttle body to be bad at that point. So I find one on the good ol' Internet and make my way outta town to go buy it. I get there and it's a rear end collision car. I was able to start it up, rev it up some hear that turbo spool and blah blah blah. Point is it was a great running car, and at that point I'm excited to make my hour drive home to my 9-5 and get the same results. So an hour later I'm back at my shop wrenching on this beautiful machine and I'm feeling good about the events that are about to unfold.. Everything came together in a snap and now I'm in the drivers seat. Cleared the codes again and proceeded to fire this puppy up!! Once again I get that click click click sound from under the hood. Shit.. Right back into lhm with a known working tb. WTF!!! So now I'm back to the basics I guess.. I seriously don't know how much more abuse I can let this car throw at me. I've checked fuel pressure.... It's good. My battery... Good. All my IC hoses and vacuum lines.. Good. I've got nothing! 10 years ago I had kick ass 9000 turbo. I modified it some and had quite a bit of fun with it. I'd like to do the same with this 9-5. I can't even get past clearing the codes before it "self destructs" into limp home mode. The only way I can get it started is by spraying starting fluid into the intake. Even then it will only run with the pedal to the floor. While running it cuts out around 2200rpm. It floats up to 3000rpm by shear centrifugal force. As it slows back down to about 2000rpm it kicks back on repeating the cycle. After the engine is good and warm it will idle, like shit. If I can't figure this thing out soon I'm gonna need a prescription to Prozac because I'm losing my Effin mind!! Thanks for all your help!!

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