|09-11-2014 05:14 PM|
dang.. I hate when there's no ending to the story.. started off good.. and a lot of tips along the way..
Anyone know what happened.??
|02-13-2012 03:13 PM|
|PoisonBeef||I have a puller, and usually just ending up hitting them with a hammer anyway.|
|02-13-2012 07:33 AM|
I think the biggest issue with the home brew is the fact that if you get that crap on your paint it's going to do damage. But then again most of those products should not be sprayed on paint. .
Welcome to: Loctite® Freeze & Release
I too have never used a puller on any ball joint, just whack it good.
|02-13-2012 05:25 AM|
|02-13-2012 01:01 AM|
|02-13-2012 12:14 AM|
|PimpMyPc||Yeah it works. Just shake it up good before you use it.|
|02-13-2012 12:04 AM|
excellent, I'll give the hammer method a go then.
The other day I was trying to find where I could buy "P.B blaster in Sydney. (Can you believe that the Blaster group is an Aussie owned company, Yet P.B blaster is nearly impossible to buy here)
Anyway, I stumbled across this "penetration" study on a Mazda blog and thought it was interesting.
Copied from an aircraft builders forum:
Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts.
Significant results! They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque
required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*
None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone.
Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
|02-12-2012 11:09 AM|
^ yep, I've never had a puller, that has always worked for me. They really like to stick in there some times.
I've also taken the nut off and put my jack under the joint and lifted it up and down a few times. I'm not sure if it helps or not. Make sure your jackstands are secure...
|02-12-2012 07:27 AM|
|02-11-2012 09:23 PM|
I have generally always rap the ball joint area in the past with a hammer to loosen it up a bit. I've never really hit it too hard though.
|02-11-2012 04:57 PM|
I just watched a u-tube vid where the hits the ball joint with a hammer.
Has anyone had any success doing this ?
|02-11-2012 04:33 PM|
|Drew in Houston||
|02-11-2012 03:07 PM|
What about this style of puller? Its real cheap too.
Ball joint seperator by BERGEN AT583 | eBay
|02-11-2012 02:34 PM|
I'll get one of those gear pullers
|02-11-2012 08:49 AM|
Something like this:
Steering Suspension Ball Joint Separator Removal Puller | eBay
|02-11-2012 06:45 AM|
|Drew in Houston||
forked chisel isn't too nice to the rubber boots sometimes. I actually use a small 2 jaw gear puller. You can also get specific ball joint pullers.
On the frame alignment, don't sweat-it too much, if it's not alligned correctly 1st time there's nothing stopping you from putting it back on jack stands, loosening the bolts, and then prying the subframe to readjust it until you're happy.
If you're still on a cable clutch you might consider going hydraulic, it's sweet.
|02-10-2012 09:30 PM|
Gee, that release bearing sleeve sure is expensive ($170). Its about the only part I don't have. Would I get away with not changing it do you think. Or is it a "must do". I'll get one if I have to
Edit: Sorry Mark,
I think I got mixed up with a release bearing and a release bearing sleeve
I have the release bearing (SKF) but was going to use the old sleeve.
What do you think?
I also have one of those "forked chisel" type ball joint splitters.
|02-10-2012 03:31 PM|
There is play when it comes to putting the subframe back on. I took a really small punch, or you can use anything, to score the outline of the subframe on the car.
It's not 100% necessary, but it helps with the alignment and stuff.
Also, with the subframe off (including control arms), the strut assembly will be able to move. There is enough play to carefully pull the halfshaft out of the trans without touching the axle nut. Just be sure to support the weight of the halfshaft with some wire so it's not just dangling.
Be sure you have a good ball joint separator. That was the most annoying part of the job for me.
I don't know if you have it, but replace the release bearing (the "slave cylinder" on cable operated transmissions).
Try to get another set of hands to help if you are alone. They don't have to be skilled but someone who doesn't mind getting dirty. Doing it alone is frustrating but possible. I've done it alone the last few times now.
|02-09-2012 12:16 AM|
Warning: Possible stupid question
As the day draws closer I just want to make sure I know as much as I can,SO
I was reading somewhere that I will have to mark the sub-frame spots to make sure it goes back in exactly the same spot.
Is this correct?
I would imagine that the sub frame could only go in one spot because it is guided by the 6 bolts holding it.
Or is there a bit of "play" where the sub-frame mounts up and it can move around a bit.
Have I got any idea what I'm talking about?
|01-31-2012 01:09 AM|
My viggen clutch kit just arrived.
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