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Thread: 9-5 Running rough and sounds like a Subaru. Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-24-2016 05:47 PM
SS929k belt has 100 miles on it. I figured i replace it with a new one since I had the old one off anyways (lot of threads visible). I will give the belt a clean and take a look at the ABS sensor. I'm getting better treaded tires put on tomorrow so while that is being done, I will inspect the sensors in the front. I was also thinking about putting a washer on the upper idler pulley because when I took that off I remember dropping a washer for that pulley and never finding it. I assumed because it was so thin that it would not make a difference. I will clean the pulleys first before I go deeper into it.
01-24-2016 04:48 PM
g96nt It's more likely that something happened to an abs sensor.

Replace the serpentine belt, but be sure to give the pullies a spin to see if they sound old. If they sound good, maybe just take some degreaser to the timing side of the engine to be sure they're not greasy.


Now, if both things happened at the same time, it's likely something kicked up in the front passenger wheel well, and hit the abs sensor and knocked off the belt.
01-24-2016 04:32 PM
SS929k Hello guys thank you for your input and support. Got the car back together and running smoothly. i took it out for a 100 mile spin and all was well. Now check engine light, no rough idle and no noices. Mabe some lifter tick but I'm not sure because I'm use to listening to lifter tick when due to working on a lot of cars that have been poorly maintained. But the car pulls good and everything. Here is the but.......
I took it out for a spin yesterday and then I heard a thunk........... and the ABS TCS and Brake lights came on........ so hearing that thunk and seeing those lights come on, I inspected the serpentine belt and I saw the belt hanging (still on by half) off the power steering pump. I did a bit of research and I see that these issue are completely different. I see now that I have to replace the idler pulleys and inspect the gear ring on the axle since I heard that thunk noise right before the lights came on. hear is the thing though. If the gear ring snapped, Isn't that part of the axle?
01-15-2016 03:31 PM
Drew in Houston The issue is that the slack is taken up only on the back side of the block where the tensioner is located.

Make sure you get the correct number of links between the cam gears, and then rotate by hand. Depending where the slack is it'll either be right or off a tooth. Remove the spring from the tensioner, loosen the cam gears, and advance the chain one tooth on both gears, then try again--you'll be working against valve spring pressure, so keeping an open end wrench on the cam helps put it in the correct position to bump the chain over one link. The marks never line up exactly right. For sure though test spin it a few times each time by hand like you've been doing.

On a side note, how far extended is the tensioner? Like, remove the spring first, and then thread out the tensioner and count the number of teeth exposed or measure the distance. It's a good indication of the amount of wear on the engine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SS929k View Post
Going to do some work on the car tonight. Just enough to turn the crank by hand to make sure the timing marks are all set. It seems as though a lot of people have been running into the issue of getting the marks even when the already lined them up. I know the first time I did it last month, I ran into the same issue so I had to keep resetting it and turning the crank by hand to make sure the marks were all lined up and timing was dialed in. That was kind of a pain because the exhaust cam barely lines up with the mark on the bearing cap. Might try to tie string to the open ended wrench then loop the other end of it to the exhaust stud to make sure I don't have the issue again. Wish me luck.
01-14-2016 05:09 PM
SS929k Going to do some work on the car tonight. Just enough to turn the crank by hand to make sure the timing marks are all set. It seems as though a lot of people have been running into the issue of getting the marks even when the already lined them up. I know the first time I did it last month, I ran into the same issue so I had to keep resetting it and turning the crank by hand to make sure the marks were all lined up and timing was dialed in. That was kind of a pain because the exhaust cam barely lines up with the mark on the bearing cap. Might try to tie string to the open ended wrench then loop the other end of it to the exhaust stud to make sure I don't have the issue again. Wish me luck.
01-10-2016 02:01 PM
Saabeh Mike D and I have been using Nashua Engine Rebuilders for various machining needs.
01-08-2016 10:26 PM
g96nt I agree. Decent price. Although, I would have had him do valve seals and guides while it was there. If it's apart and sitting at the machine shop, ya might as well. Glad to hear it's all re-fixed.
01-08-2016 08:18 PM
turbojohnny pictures of shiny head work are always nice. and that doesn't sound like a bad price for what you had done.
01-08-2016 05:21 PM
SS929k the intake valves for #4 were pretty messed up. One of the exhaust valves were cupped and the other was not sealing all the way because of melted spark plug metal stuck on the valve. The guy at the shop didn't even let me get the head out of the trunk and he already knew what generation saab it was from and when I lifted it up to show him the problem, he already knew what caused it and he was nice enough to take the valves I was bringing to the garage to put in after he was done. Valves installed, resurface of the cylinder head and extraction of the exhaust manifold studs that broke, 240 bucks. The guy actually loves working with Saab engines or Saab anything. The last time I saw the guy I was bringing my flywheel to get resurfaced from my 9000 and he identified that quick as well. I think if you want to do saab machining of anything and you live in MA, go to this guy in Southborough J & M Machine Co. Good guy. Sorry fro the marketing. I will be putting the car back together tomorrow morning. Will let you know what happens.

PS. I know you've been dying for pictures but I find that too tedious and time consuming while doing work on a project but I do have some be patient.
01-06-2016 06:32 AM
Saabeh
Quote:
Originally Posted by SS929k View Post
Today I did a little more diagnosing with the head. I poured some gas on the valves and the gas went right though the intake valve chambers in cylinder 4. I'll be going to a machine shop tomorrow to see what the damage is going to be. I was originally going to do a shave but I think a seat may be in order. I'm not sure but I'll see what the guy says tomorrow. Wish me luck????
I bet having a shop fix/replace/whatever the valve seats would be more expensive than just finding another head with valves already in it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by turbojohnny View Post
did you pull the valves to see if they were bent?
Good point.
01-06-2016 03:40 AM
turbojohnny did you pull the valves to see if they were bent?
01-05-2016 07:54 PM
SS929k Today I did a little more diagnosing with the head. I poured some gas on the valves and the gas went right though the intake valve chambers in cylinder 4. I'll be going to a machine shop tomorrow to see what the damage is going to be. I was originally going to do a shave but I think a seat may be in order. I'm not sure but I'll see what the guy says tomorrow. Wish me luck????
01-04-2016 06:15 PM
SS929k Picked up a valve spring compressor of the sort but it did not come with the adapter so I will fab something up. It was cheap so I don't expect it to be easy. I will let you know how this goes.
01-04-2016 06:55 AM
turbojohnny A tool like this would be suitable, but you would need to mount the head to a hard surface and make sure that the valves aren't opening as you compress the spring.





New Engine Overhead Valve Spring Remover Installer OHV OHC Compressor Tool Set | eBay
01-04-2016 06:47 AM
Saabeh I made a tool similar to what Johnny said, but I used a hard plastic pipe and a drill press.
01-03-2016 04:31 PM
turbojohnny changing valves on these cylinder heads is a rather difficult task without a special tool.
I myself have not seen a rental valve spring compressor tool available that would work. I actually took a deep well socket and cut the sides out of it so I had access to pull the keepers off the top of the valve spring. then I used a "C" clamp to compress the valve spring.

it was a very tedious task. I would love to find a valve spring compressor tool suitable for the job.
01-03-2016 04:30 PM
g96nt I have my head baked/planed any time the head comes off. Especially if there was an overheat. My machine shop used to charge $99 for a bake/plane, and $350 for a full rebuild with new seals/5-angle, and stud removal.

You don't have to tear it down to see if there's a sealing problem. Remove the cams, flip it over, and fill the combustion chambers with gas. You'll know right away if one isn't sealing.
01-03-2016 04:22 PM
SS929k I took the head off again and I'm in the process of taking the valves off but I'm at a stand still. Is it possible for the valves to come off without the use of that special tool? Also would it be a good idea to get the head machined since I had a heat issue?
12-27-2015 09:24 PM
SS929k
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew in Houston View Post
My bet is burnt valve/seat right now if didn't inspect. What did you do exactly, replace a piston and a quick ball hone?
I was reading the WIS instructions on how to replace the seats and the compression of the seat and that other thing is confusing my a little. Would anybody suggest a workaround for this?

I guess I need to compress the spring with air and at the same time use a special tool to take the seat out.

I also forgot to mention from the start of this whole issue, whenever I started the car, it made a weird noise every time it was cranked. It was like a weird squeak noise just before the car fired up and idled terribly.

Just let me know your thoughts.

Thanks in advanced.

P.S.

Valve Guide metal vs Spark Plug Metal, Which one is stronger. I ask because if the plug metal is stronger, is it safe to assume that a valve guide melted? When I took the head off the valves were seated fine on both exhaust and intake side.
12-21-2015 11:45 AM
SS929k It failed at 4 going out. I replaced the piston only, no hone because there was no scoring or damage on the walls that I say with my eyes or felt with my fingers. Rplace chains as well since I was that deep in there. I did not replace valve seals because I assumed the damage was the gasket and piston being damaged. If the heat was that much I assume I gotta take the head off again and look at the valves for cylinder 4 and the seats.
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