Tutorial: Removing Mesh from Air Sensor - The Saab Link Forums

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Old 04-08-2005, 10:21 AM   #1
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Tutorial: Removing Mesh from Air Sensor

Ok so I decided to remove the mesh inside the air intake sensor. I believe it does slow down air to a point, and every little bit counts. So I first used a pair of pliers to rip it apart, and then I realized that I could of just slipped the mesh right off! It's only held on by two clips sort of. See pics below. So you don't have to destroy it like I did, you can keep it in case for some reason you want to slide it back on. You will see what I mean by the photos below.

Before



After



Slots inside to quickly remove the mesh



Finally the remains

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Old 04-08-2005, 10:34 AM   #2
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The mesh is there for a reason and removing it is going to give you more potential problems than any possible benefit. Your MAF could have a hard time providing an accurate reading w/o it especially if you have an open intake.
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Old 04-08-2005, 10:48 AM   #3
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well the C-900 people remove theirs a lot. you see, bosch put it there to smooth out the airflow over the hot wire. I don't even know if the GM 900 uses the same type of sensor, this mod may just end up doing bad things, doing nothing at all, or increasing HP by .02... never know!
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Old 04-08-2005, 10:52 AM   #4
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You guys ALWAYS over-react...Let me tell you, if it was there for a reason other than protecting the sensor from debris, it would say right on it, DO NOT REMOVE
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Old 04-08-2005, 10:53 AM   #5
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Seriously though.. do you really think its blocking airflow that much? Its just a screen Rob.
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Old 04-08-2005, 10:58 AM   #6
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Like DeLorean said, its there to smooth out air flow so the sensor can provide an accurate reading. It has nothing to do with blocking debris. That is the job of the air filter.
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Old 04-08-2005, 11:34 AM   #7
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ya dude i would def not take that off... your sensor will go bad sooner without that on there that sensor is not going to read correctly
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Old 04-08-2005, 12:25 PM   #8
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well--



he sure isn't puting it back in!
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Old 04-08-2005, 12:35 PM   #9
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LOL
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Old 04-08-2005, 12:53 PM   #10
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Took it for a test drive...Check Engine Light went on, engine just shut off...Not sure what to do...Ha just kidding...Test drive was fine...All systems go...If I run into any issues, I will be sure to let you guys know...
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Old 04-08-2005, 03:13 PM   #11
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well actually the reason the c900's have that mesh is for when fools take out the AMM and just throw it to the side, basically to keep large chunks of crap outta there. i remember that some company (cant remember who, doesnt really matter) actually measured the pressure drop because of teh mesh and iirc there was a difference without it.

but... thats on a c900, and that mesh is more like what you see on a screen door, lots more mesh than what you have there. the real flow problem that your AMM has is that giant metering piece thats right in the middle of the airstream, but in reality even if you had a way to get rid of that (you cant, don't try ) you still probably wouldnt make any extra power.

airflow isnt your problem right now, its lack of boost .

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Old 04-08-2005, 04:49 PM   #12
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Who needs boost Atleast someone doesn't believe that thing was VERY important
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Old 04-08-2005, 04:59 PM   #13
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I didn't say it was very important, that was only 1 of 3 options
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Old 04-08-2005, 05:58 PM   #14
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Well wouldn't I know right away if there was a problem? I took it up and down the street without any issues. Although it did seem to be hesitating when I floored it, but it's usually like that when the engine isn't warmed up...
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Old 04-08-2005, 10:06 PM   #15
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yeah - it's turbo time pal Stop farting around and let's get a 2.0T drop in for that beast of yours
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for your repair needs
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Old 04-09-2005, 06:17 AM   #16
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I told you guys, I want to stick with an N/A. Not a lot of people do that I have plans to reach 225. That's all I want to be, match up with a viggen
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Old 04-10-2005, 11:23 AM   #17
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rob, if you dont mind me asking, how do you plan on reaching 225. that is a shit load of hp out of our cars
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Old 04-10-2005, 12:19 PM   #18
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I know I know. Well I've been talking with a few mechanics and saab power hungry individuals, and it seems like I can get to that number with some MAJOR cash. An egnine rebuild would be necessary, lighter cams, raise compression, looking into getting a stage 1 water injection system, better air flow, better exhaust flow, timing advance, and other things. Just trying to learn right now what will be the best to get to this goal of 225. And people can argue that it's not possible, but I believe anything is possible if you put your mind to it....So I can't spit out all the exact details now because I am not sure of them, learning as I go...
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Old 04-10-2005, 12:35 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcmdesign
Just trying to learn right now what will be the best to get to this goal of 225. And people can argue that it's not possible
I mean you could pull it, maybe... the main problem is going to be the fact that just about any turbo model 900 would STILL be faster just because it has the torque at all RPM ranges while the n/a won't

Basically it would be a hell of a lot easier and cheaper to buy and mod a 900-SE than it would be to get an na/automatic car up to 225 HP. I mean it's the slowest car since the 1988 900-base / automatic
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Old 04-10-2005, 12:49 PM   #20
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Yes but the N/A already comes with many parts on it that are built for power, the intake manifold, cams and many others, it's got parts already that are key for tuning...I just don't want to work with a turbo, period...I want to see what I can do with an N/A Saab. Since the fastest N/A Saab I knew had an estimated 227HP or so, meatball, who just recently totalled his car...I don't know of any others out there that are tuning an N/A Saab, so it will be a fun project....Nothing that I would get done this summer, but it's a project...
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