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Old 09-09-2014, 05:51 PM   #1
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Need help/advice on doing timing chain

I'm going to start doing my timing chain and everything else in the euro part timing chain and balance chain kit Friday night. I'm going to remove the head to do it since I need to do my headgasket, then il undo the side motor mount and lower it down to get the timing cover off. I was curious what's the best way to support the motor is while the heads off and how to lower it? Just a floor jack? I've tried to doing a lot of searching but it doesn't seem like a lot of people do it this way or just roll a new one in. So I was wondering if any one had any good links on doing it this way or just anything good for me to read on doing this. Or if anybody just has any tips or suggestions to me. Also can't find anything on the torque specs for everything in the timing cover.

Also had another question regarding the head. Does anyone know what the correct order for the cam bearing caps are? I want to make sur there in the correct spots as it looked like someone has touched the cams before. (Got this head from a breaker yard).
Thank you Connor
Il probably add more as I think of it
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Old 09-09-2014, 08:19 PM   #2
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For lowering the engine a floor jack with a block of wood and some rags or a chunk of rubber (so you don't crack the pan) is fine.

The timing cover doesn't get torqued all that tight, like 20 lb-ft is plenty since you'll use some sealant anyway. It's not structural, it just needs to not leak.

The cam bearing caps, start near the cap that's got spring tension on it and just work them all down gradually so the cam goes down straight. Once they are all snug the order doesn't matter. The order matters for the head and the wheels because the bolts are torqued so tight, the cam cap bolts aren't tightened very tight at all - like 14-17 lb-ft or something like that.
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Old 09-10-2014, 10:54 AM   #3
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Ok thank you I'm also looking for all the torque specs for everything under the timing cover as well. I'm still also to find something that shows if the caps are I'm the correct or correct direction. All the caps have a little square coming off on one of the sides. They all go in the same direction except the last one on the exhaust side it's opposite. Now I want to know if that's actually how it's suppose to be. There's also weird numbers and letters on the caps, exhaust side 1i 3c 1i 3f 4c. In take is 1j(I think?) 3c 1i 3b 2h. Can I just look at my cams on the car still and make sure it's the same as that? Also should they all b on the same side of cap?
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Old 09-10-2014, 11:03 AM   #4
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Old 09-10-2014, 11:14 AM   #5
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Also what is the way/time to remove the timing chain tensioner? Right before I'm about to get the head off?
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Old 09-10-2014, 11:52 AM   #6
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The numbers of the caps are the small stamped numbers on the little rectangle in the center of the cap, NOT the "4C" number.

They all go on in the same orientation. There are little triangular tick marks on the sides of all the caps, they all go in the same orientation.

The number corresponding to the bearing cap is cast into the head, to the right of where each cap goes.

Tensioner, you can crack the 13mm bolt head on the end loose and then unscrew the whole thing, then re-set it before you re-install it.
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Old 09-10-2014, 03:44 PM   #7
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I see the numbers and there are in the correct spots, now I just don't know if #10 needs to be turned around? It's the opposite way of all of them
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Old 09-10-2014, 03:50 PM   #8
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I also notice one side of the cam caps all the way across there is I line cut out of the bolts down the threads. And of course 10 is opposite shouldn't it be the same way? As with the little square sticking of in the first to picks I posted?
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Old 09-10-2014, 07:27 PM   #9
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The numbers 1 thru 10 should all be right side up.
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Old 09-11-2014, 06:05 AM   #10
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The numbers 1 thru 10 should all be right side up.
well then it is upside down! If thats how it was on the cam before is that bad? is bad to switch it around? will it be worn different and cause any issues if I flip it around?
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Old 09-11-2014, 09:15 AM   #11
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Yes, it can be bad if they are run in the wrong position.
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Old 09-12-2014, 08:13 AM   #12
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Wow.. I changed my head, gasket, timing chain and associated parts in the car. Seems like a lot of work to replace the timing chain and head-gasket by pulling the motor. But probably good if you are doing some bottom-end work as well... and now that I think about it.. the work is probably not as intricate, and makes it easier to get to crank area. I end up pulling off the right fender moulding underneath to access things.

If you really need to pull the engine.. seems like pulling it up and out as opposed to bottom and out is the way to go, it's just that the subframe comes to mind, but I might be wrong. from what I remember.. they should all point in the same direction..

The camshaft bearing caps are stamped 1 to 5 on the inlet and 6 to 10 on the exhaust ... You should also see bolts that have black heads on the inner side of the cap... with exception to those close to the timing chain. Those black head bolts are especially drilled for oil supply to the hydraulic cam followers.. so you also need to make sure the correct bolts are fitted too.

If you plan on changing or inspecting the followers.. you want to make sure you identify the order and location from where they came.... check for end play on the cam since you're in there as well. look for ridges on the camshaft bearing areas.. I'll post a pic of the spare head I have to see if that helps..
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Old 09-12-2014, 08:42 AM   #13
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I'm not sure this helps.. because my other head actually had arrows near the numbers stamped on..
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Old 09-12-2014, 10:11 AM   #14
 
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When in doubt, take it to the shop....

whats the fuss over the bearing caps??? match the bearing cap # with the corresponding head stamped #/

far from rocket since... Line up the marking so your sure your not fitting backwards...Black bolts go inside; they have a line through the thread for oil to travel?

Done... Beer.... Drive... not in that order! Lol...

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Old 09-15-2014, 04:53 PM   #15
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Wow.. I changed my head, gasket, timing chain and associated parts in the car. Seems like a lot of work to replace the timing chain and head-gasket by pulling the motor. But probably good if you are doing some bottom-end work as well... and now that I think about it.. the work is probably not as intricate, and makes it easier to get to crank area. I end up pulling off the right fender moulding underneath to access things.

If you really need to pull the engine.. seems like pulling it up and out as opposed to bottom and out is the way to go, it's just that the subframe comes to mind, but I might be wrong. from what I remember.. they should all point in the same direction..

The camshaft bearing caps are stamped 1 to 5 on the inlet and 6 to 10 on the exhaust ... You should also see bolts that have black heads on the inner side of the cap... with exception to those close to the timing chain. Those black head bolts are especially drilled for oil supply to the hydraulic cam followers.. so you also need to make sure the correct bolts are fitted too.

If you plan on changing or inspecting the followers.. you want to make sure you identify the order and location from where they came.... check for end play on the cam since you're in there as well. look for ridges on the camshaft bearing areas.. I'll post a pic of the spare head I have to see if that helps..
Ok thank you that really cleared things up for me! I now have the head and will be pulling the timing cover and get this over with!
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Old 09-19-2014, 07:26 AM   #16
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I was wondering if there was anything else you guys suggest to change while the car is apart? I have all new timing components new chain tensioner. New cps new fpr all new gaskets. Trying to think if there anything u forgot or should just do while I'm in there
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Old 09-19-2014, 09:21 AM   #17
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Nope, that's everything you can get to in the timing cover.
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Old 09-19-2014, 11:43 AM   #18
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I mean just stuff that's easier to replace with the head off Doesn't have to be just in the timing cover
Thanks Connor
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Old 09-25-2014, 08:28 AM   #19
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Hoping to have it done and put back together by the middle of next week(been have to work way to much this last month). Now I was wondering if it needs any kind of "break in" period for a rebuilt head and new timing components? I'm obviously not going to pull out of my drive and beat on it. Just want to make sure there's nothing I don't know about on this.
Thanks Connor
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Old 09-25-2014, 02:16 PM   #20
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Hoping to have it done and put back together by the middle of next week(been have to work way to much this last month). Now I was wondering if it needs any kind of "break in" period for a rebuilt head and new timing components? I'm obviously not going to pull out of my drive and beat on it. Just want to make sure there's nothing I don't know about on this.
Thanks Connor
No break in required. Do a burnout on your way out of the driveway for us.

As for thinks to change, you could do the alternator or air compressor since they need to be removed to pull the cover. Power steering pump as well. That's about it.
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