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Old 11-05-2013, 07:45 PM   #1
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Difference in SPEC clutches. Need answer!

Does anyone know the difference between the NG 900 Spec stage 3+ clutch kit (SS183F) and the OG9-3 stage 3+ (ss193f)?! I cannot see there being a difference in the pressure plate and friction disc... The price between the two is around $300 in difference, which is considerable to me.. If I can save three hundred dollars I will... Thanks in advance! Also looking on their website the torque holding capacity seems to be higher now, at 650lb/ft.
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Old 11-06-2013, 03:53 AM   #2
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The 93 one includes the slave cyl
I believe that's the only difference
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Old 11-06-2013, 05:43 AM   #3
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Have you called Spec and asked?
As was said, I'd imagine its likely inclusion of throw-out bearing vs slave cylinder.
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Old 11-06-2013, 06:45 AM   #4
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You guys are probably correct! I always use an OE slave cylinder, though... I am just going to try the NG900 one as I already have a brand new 9-3 slave! Thanks!
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Old 11-06-2013, 09:48 AM   #5
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Might want to read up on how shitty the SPEC clutches are. Lots of threads on here and SC about them.
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Old 11-06-2013, 02:42 PM   #6
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I'd stay away....the stage 3+ in my car failed catastrophically (springs) at 25,000ish miles.
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Old 11-06-2013, 03:02 PM   #7
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Doesn't Pat (yllwjet) run a Spec 3+ in his crazy HP Viggen
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Old 11-06-2013, 03:05 PM   #8
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The stage 3+ I put in a customer's 9000 Aero tore out all the rivets holding the friction material on in something like 3k miles. Pulled the bellhousing off and they all poured out and the disc came out in like 4 pieces. Another one the hub springs got all sloppy and rattled around.

Genuine Saab doesn't even sell them anymore.

Would be worth calling Nick or JZW though, there was at one point a way to get Sachs motorsport high clamping pressure plates and then you use stock disc.

See what Clutchnet sells too, they might be able to re-spring a pressure plate for you and then you can use the much more pleasant fiber friction materials.
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Old 11-06-2013, 03:09 PM   #9
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^ Even if he did, not sure how many miles were put on the clutch. The car has been taken apart with parts sold off for a whole new level of project in the works.


I had the rivets shear on my Spec.

A friend had two fail on his 9-3ss before break-in. Shop's thought is the dimensions aren't right; not made to spec/not up to spec!
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Old 11-06-2013, 05:22 PM   #10
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I've heard both arguments. 25,000 miles for that clutch is actually good lol.

John recommended the Spec stage 3+ for my application. I've looked into the Clutchnet clutches and there are just as many poor reviews. I was looking at their stage 3 which is something like 500 lb/ft holding capacity.

If someone can show me factual evidence of which one is better I am
All ears! The Clutchnet is cheaper... Lol.


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Old 11-06-2013, 07:34 PM   #11
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I ran spec stg 3+ on my viggen, got the 900 one because it was cheaper... The feel in my opinion was awesome and never let me down? It was very forgiving in comparison to a 6 puck that's for sure...
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Old 11-06-2013, 08:59 PM   #12
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I wonder why GS doesn't sell the clutch net discs anymore, Ive got about 20k on my Clutchnet Stage 2 disc and haven't run into any problems...yet
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Old 11-07-2013, 04:00 AM   #13
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I am going to vent a little here but, I am in the market for a clutch also. I ordered a twin disc setup from GS. After 3 months of waiting i spoke with nick, he said the mfg had changed their prices without any knowledge to nick. Soo... Genuine saab waited almost a year to recieve a some dual disc setups and only got enough parts for 1setup and a crap load of flywheels if remember correctly. I decided to start the process to find other mfgs for a twin disc clutch. First i started with spec to see if they would be able to make a dual disc clutch. they responded with "we do not currently make that type of clutch for you 1999 saab 93 but we do have a great streetable disc that is reliable up to 645lb/ft of torque". 86 that idea. I have been going back and forth slowly with clutch masters to see if they will be able to make a reliable setup. It has been a long frustrating process that hopefully turns out some decent results.
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Old 11-07-2013, 10:21 PM   #14
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Suggest contacting one of the race car suppliers like:

Tilton Engineering
Products | Tilton Engineering - Innovative, High-Quality Racing Products

AP racing:
Home - AP Racing

Taylor Racing:
Hewland Gearbox | Jerico Transmissions | Quaife Transmission | Tilton Clutch | Racing Driveline

to see if they have anything that is "streetable". Most race clutches for big race engines are small, light weight, multi-disc, and pretty durable. These clutches are likely going to require a custom flywheel and more. There will be some engineering and fab works to make them go.

I'm not a big fan of most aftermarket parts as they are more often than not of sub-standard quality and can-O-worms problems.. This is not to say there are not good high quality aftermarket parts, it is very much a buyer be aware market place.

Friend with a turbo VW, greanaded a "up-rated" SPEC clutch in less than three months. Not a happy camper.

I got a Kevlar clutch disc for the B234L in the 9000 not too long ago and it has worked out nicely. This clutch disc started out as a new stock OEM disc. The organic linings were removed and kevlar lining installed. Pressure plate surface was modified to work with this Kevlar friction material. Work was do by Robin at Superior Friction. They can customize and make up most special clutches for a given application and etc..
Superior Clutch


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Old 11-08-2013, 04:29 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Rupunzell View Post
Suggest contacting one of the race car suppliers like:

Tilton Engineering
Products | Tilton Engineering - Innovative, High-Quality Racing Products

AP racing:
Home - AP Racing

Taylor Racing:
Hewland Gearbox | Jerico Transmissions | Quaife Transmission | Tilton Clutch | Racing Driveline

to see if they have anything that is "streetable". Most race clutches for big race engines are small, light weight, multi-disc, and pretty durable. These clutches are likely going to require a custom flywheel and more. There will be some engineering and fab works to make them go.

I'm not a big fan of most aftermarket parts as they are more often than not of sub-standard quality and can-O-worms problems.. This is not to say there are not good high quality aftermarket parts, it is very much a buyer be aware market place.

Friend with a turbo VW, greanaded a "up-rated" SPEC clutch in less than three months. Not a happy camper.

I got a Kevlar clutch disc for the B234L in the 9000 not too long ago and it has worked out nicely. This clutch disc started out as a new stock OEM disc. The organic linings were removed and kevlar lining installed. Pressure plate surface was modified to work with this Kevlar friction material. Work was do by Robin at Superior Friction. They can customize and make up most special clutches for a given application and etc..
Superior Clutch


Bernice

Thank you for the suggestion; however, I want something that is already readily available... I do not really have the funds for a thousand dollar plus clutch setup right now...
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Old 11-09-2013, 09:19 AM   #16
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It will cost to play..

There will be no good "low cost" solutions for clutches that are expected to support significant amounts of torque, be durable, last and .....

Over the years of tinkering with aftemarket stuff and speaking to many others who have done the same, anything that actually works as expected and is durable/reliable = expensive.

For a proven aftermarket part to be easily available, there must be enough market demand and sales and an individual or group willing to invest in it's development and production. Otherwise, it is roll your own with the help of specialty companies that are in business to support this.

Some years ago a guy friend who wrenches in Italian exotics replaced/upgraded a clutch in a Lambo Diablo, the parts cost was $8,000 USD in the late 1990's.. The cost of a race clutch from AP racing can cost a few thousand but they work and they have abrupt engagement and are not designed for much slip. large diameter clutches used in things like a Viper V10 are basically truck clutches that are heavy with lots of inertia. This limits the rate of engine RPM change, but the cost is much lower than a true race clutch... may not fit due to size and numerous other factors.

It is all very much a trade off.


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Thank you for the suggestion; however, I want something that is already readily available... I do not really have the funds for a thousand dollar plus clutch setup right now...
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Old 11-09-2013, 03:23 PM   #17
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............Would be worth calling Nick or JZW though, there was at one point a way to get Sachs motorsport high clamping pressure plates and then you use stock disc.........
Do you think this is the pressure plate you are referring too? Its not bad $$ wise if it'll hold more torque than the viggen setup, yet still have good drivability. I also wonder if it take higher rpm then 6800 Nick T claims the stock pp can handle.

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Old 11-13-2013, 12:10 AM   #18
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I feel sorry for everyone who is having problems with this clutch.
For me , My Stage 3+ has been great.... 25,000 klms and a track day *so far* lol

I love it ....
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Old 11-13-2013, 10:37 PM   #19
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I feel sorry for everyone who is having problems with this clutch.
For me , My Stage 3+ has been great.... 25,000 klms and a track day *so far* lol

I love it ....
Hopefully I am lucky. I am going to be very careful with the installation, as I feel like this is the most common reason for premature failure. I have seen many transmission input shafts hung onto the disc during installation. But, since I am doing it all out of the car it should not be a problem...

I already ordered the Spec stage 3 plus. So we will see .
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Old 11-13-2013, 11:28 PM   #20
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. I have seen many transmission input shafts hung onto the disc during installation. .. .
I Was warned not to do that by an expert. It nearly always causes chatter or worse....

I was very careful with my install not to "hang" the box ,at all

Good luck
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