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Old 03-25-2013, 09:13 PM   #1
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found in barn 95 900 SE turbo

so I have a friend that owned this Saab for 3 years, its sat in the barn for 1+ years. bougt it today for 1000 US dollars, it is my first Saab ever, I put a tank of high octane in it, changed the oil, aired up the tires and drove it about 100 miles today, the old girl didnt miss a beat. She accelerated effortlessly through the hills and twisties of Kentucky. My plans are new tires, new paint, new shift linkage and new exaust... any suggestions?

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Old 03-25-2013, 10:35 PM   #2
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It looks like the bumper isn't sitting correctly and the headlight wipers were removed, was the car in a front end collision? You should check the front end and make sure there is no damage to the intercooler and radiator. Check the bumper cover retainers by the fenders, it is a plastic piece that holds the bumper cover to the body. I would replace the spark plugs and be sure to use NGK ones. Check the belt and pulleys. Check all the fluids. Make sure the battery is in good condition. Get a spare DIC. How many miles are on the car?
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Old 03-26-2013, 06:09 AM   #3
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I'd also add some fuel injector cleaner (like the Lucas brand stuff), and change the gearbox fluid (whether it's manual or auto).

Not to sound like a jerk, but the more you drive it I'm sure the more things will pop up. That's how it's been with my sister in law's car that I just put an engine in.
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Old 03-26-2013, 06:56 AM   #4
 
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Definitely get a spare DIC and new NGK (!) plugs as mentioned earlier. The ignition cassette is also a knock sensor and uses the spark plugs to monitor various engine issues. A few tanks of fuel injector cleaner is also a great idea, and I'd consider running an oil cleaning cycle with any additive that contains naphtha or similar compounds.

After sitting that long, the front control arm bushings are probably going to shit the bed in a few thousand miles. Check to see if they're the original control arms, which were responsible for some of the car's initial reputation for terrible handling. They were changed in late 95 for the 96 model year, IIRC.

Once you replace the things that are routine maintenance items I'd DEFINITELY look at replacing the control arms.
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Old 03-26-2013, 07:10 AM   #5
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Old 03-26-2013, 07:28 AM   #6
 
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It's got 125K, which is actually surprisingly young, so the control arms can wait for a while.....If it ain't broke.....
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Old 03-26-2013, 07:36 AM   #7
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It looks like the bumper isn't sitting correctly and the headlight wipers were removed, was the car in a front end collision? You should check the front end and make sure there is no damage to the intercooler and radiator. Check the bumper cover retainers by the fenders, it is a plastic piece that holds the bumper cover to the body. I would replace the spark plugs and be sure to use NGK ones. Check the belt and pulleys. Check all the fluids. Make sure the battery is in good condition. Get a spare DIC. How many miles are on the car?
It has 125k miles on it. yeah it was in a fender bender, the rad and intercooler are fine, I have a good body work man that will take care of that when I get it painted. Good point on the plugs too, I will start checking the parts house for some NGK's, The battery was in good shape and was getting good voltage/amps after a quick drive, the date on it was 1/2012 so its not horribly old. I have been online and am looking for a DIC.

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Old 03-26-2013, 07:47 AM   #8
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I'd also add some fuel injector cleaner (like the Lucas brand stuff), and change the gearbox fluid (whether it's manual or auto).

Not to sound like a jerk, but the more you drive it I'm sure the more things will pop up. That's how it's been with my sister in law's car that I just put an engine in.
Thanks to everyone that posted here, Saabs are deff new to me and I could use all the help I can get! That is a good point on the injector cleaner, I will do that with the next tank of gas, dont know why I didnt add any this time. Ive read about the work you have been doing to your sisters ride and got to commend you for your patience!! I dont expect a perfect car or one that isnt going to have problems for 1000 dollars, I kind of plan on a few 'quirks' popping up, I just hope they wont be too bad. It did feel good to me and I hope my instinct is right, only time will tell!
oh and by the way hope your foot is better!

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Old 03-26-2013, 07:47 AM   #9
 
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No, you made a great purchase. These are the routine things that tend to fail on every Saab at some point, usually after 150K miles.

The DIC will start to give funky outputs and you might get a check engine light with a misfire code, but it can do that for 10-20K miles before starting to miss at high RPMs. Once that happens, you need to change it because it will likely fail at 2 a.m. on a deserted highway.

Luckily, it takes 2 minutes to change a spare, and I know from experience it's that easy to do at 2 a.m. on the side of a deserted highway.

Take Falcon's suggestion about the belt and look for large areas of cracking or missing chunks. If you're going to replace it -- and I would, just so you know when it was last done -- consider replacing the tensioner pulley at the same time, and/or doing a short-belt mod to bypass the idler pulley. The cosmetic stuff in the front is easy to fix, especially if you have a junk yard nearby, or post in the Wanted/For Sale section here...

EDIT: You should start making a list of things to change/fix now, things that can wait a few months, and things that you can start budgeting for down the road.

Now: plugs, spare DIC, oil flush cycle before it gets too warm
Soon: Serp belt, tensioner pulley, fuel filter, check corrosion on oil cooler lines and power steering lines.
Long-range: fuel pump (tend to die at 150-180K), front control arms, get thicker rear anti-sway bar.

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Old 03-26-2013, 08:23 AM   #10
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LOL Yeah my foot's good, that happened back in... July or August last year.

And at $1,000 with a good engine you made a great purchase. Just keep fixing the little things like we're all saying and you'll have a good running, reliable, fun turbo car.
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Old 03-26-2013, 09:07 AM   #11
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Old 03-26-2013, 09:28 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by mike saunders View Post
No, you made a great purchase. These are the routine things that tend to fail on every Saab at some point, usually after 150K miles.

The DIC will start to give funky outputs and you might get a check engine light with a misfire code, but it can do that for 10-20K miles before starting to miss at high RPMs. Once that happens, you need to change it because it will likely fail at 2 a.m. on a deserted highway.

Luckily, it takes 2 minutes to change a spare, and I know from experience it's that easy to do at 2 a.m. on the side of a deserted highway.

Take Falcon's suggestion about the belt and look for large areas of cracking or missing chunks. If you're going to replace it -- and I would, just so you know when it was last done -- consider replacing the tensioner pulley at the same time, and/or doing a short-belt mod to bypass the idler pulley. The cosmetic stuff in the front is easy to fix, especially if you have a junk yard nearby, or post in the Wanted/For Sale section here...

EDIT: You should start making a list of things to change/fix now, things that can wait a few months, and things that you can start budgeting for down the road.

Now: plugs, spare DIC, oil flush cycle before it gets too warm
Soon: Serp belt, tensioner pulley, fuel filter, check corrosion on oil cooler lines and power steering lines.
Long-range: fuel pump (tend to die at 150-180K), front control arms, get thicker rear anti-sway bar.
as soon as the weather warms up I will check and more than likely change the belts and pulleys, get new tires update the shift linkage because it feels horrible and a new DIC put on it, prob just keep my old one in the trunk as a spare.
I dont think the engine needs to be flushed, the oil wasnt in bad shape when I changed. I like to change it in any new car I get, but I will deff keep an eye on it when I change it again.
My friend had a new fuel pump and filter put in it when she bought it (approx 3 years ago) so it should be good for a bit...
also what is the advantage of a short belt mod?
also been looking at silicone replacement hoses and tubes, they look cool plus did a great job on my celica and hopefully I can find/make a decent cold air intake, the factory plumbing looks like it is quite restrictive
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Old 03-26-2013, 09:44 AM   #13
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LOL Yeah my foot's good, that happened back in... July or August last year.

And at $1,000 with a good engine you made a great purchase. Just keep fixing the little things like we're all saying and you'll have a good running, reliable, fun turbo car.
shew, you had me worried for a minute! I think once I get the thing a good once over, It will be in good shape. the damn thing didnt want me to quit driving her. I hate to see such a (potentially) sexy ride rust away in a barn. once I get it painted it wont be such an eye sore either.... dont know which color to go with... I hate red
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Old 03-26-2013, 09:45 AM   #14
 
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as soon as the weather warms up I will check and more than likely change the belts and pulleys, get new tires update the shift linkage because it feels horrible and a new DIC put on it, prob just keep my old one in the trunk as a spare.
I dont think the engine needs to be flushed, the oil wasnt in bad shape when I changed. I like to change it in any new car I get, but I will deff keep an eye on it when I change it again.
Sorry...I wasn't clear. Not an actual flush, but just a cleaning cycle. Most aftermarket products (Auto-RX, SeaFoam, Marvel Mystery Oil, etc.) contain petroleum- or citrus-based solvents that help slowly dissolve deposits while you drive the car. With any car that you haven't maintained yourself, there's always the possibility that the previous owner changed the oil once a year or whenever the mood struck. Saabs HATE oil sludge, and even though the NG900 isn't as susceptible as the 9-3, a couple of cleaning cycles of a quart of Seafoam or MMO with four quarts of conventional oil can't hurt if you do it in the spring. (I wouldn't in the summer because of the lighter viscosity)...


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My friend had a new fuel pump and filter put in it when she bought it (approx 3 years ago) so it should be good for a bit...
also what is the advantage of a short belt mod?
also been looking at silicone replacement hoses and tubes, they look cool plus did a great job on my celica and hopefully I can find/make a decent cold air intake, the factory plumbing looks like it is quite restrictive
That fuel pump should be OK for a while...

Short belt mod eliminates the idler pulley as a potential point of failure. The idler and tensioner pulley bearings are usually the ones that seize and kill the belt. Tensioner pulley is easy to fix, the idler pulley is a PITA...

Silicone hoses are nice looking but seriously expensive. Dresses up the engine bay, though. The intake system is way low on the mod list for power/performance. Drill holes in the bottom of the existing air box or search for "3-inch funnel mod." I'd do either before changing the intake.

Other folks should chime in, though....

...and once the red (actually looks like dark "rubin red" in the pics) gets polished and waxed, you might change your mind....

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Old 03-26-2013, 09:46 AM   #15
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NO!!! not another one... LOL
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Old 03-26-2013, 09:56 AM   #16
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Sorry...I wasn't clear. Not an actual flush, but just a cleaning cycle. Most aftermarket products (Auto-RX, SeaFoam, Marvel Mystery Oil, etc.) contain petroleum- or citrus-based solvents that help slowly dissolve deposits while you drive the car. With any car that you haven't maintained yourself, there's always the possibility that the previous owner changed the oil once a year or whenever the mood struck. Saabs HATE oil sludge, and even though the NG900 isn't as susceptible as the 9-3, a couple of cleaning cycles of a quart of Seafoam or MMO with four quarts of conventional oil can't hurt if you do it in the spring. (I wouldn't in the summer because of the lighter viscosity)...




That fuel pump should be OK for a while...

Short belt mod eliminates the idler pulley as a potential point of failure. The idler and tensioner pulley bearings are usually the ones that seize and kill the belt. Tensioner pulley is easy to fix, the idler pulley is a PITA...

Silicone hoses are nice looking but seriously expensive. Dresses up the engine bay, though. The intake system is way low on the mod list for power/performance. Drill holes in the bottom of the existing air box or search for "3-inch funnel mod." I'd do either before changing the intake.

Other folks should chime in, though....

...and once the red (actually looks like dark "rubin red" in the pics) gets polished and waxed, you might change your mind....
lol going to take some rubin to get that red back...sorry couldnt resist

I understand now about the oil, I swear by seafoam myself... thanks for all the great info, I am taking notes
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Old 03-26-2013, 09:19 PM   #17
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Here are some more things:
Check the rear shock mounts for rust, that is probably the first place it will start. Check the trunk after a good rain, make sure water isn't leaking in there from the sunroof drains. Oil the antenna as suggested in the owner's manual. If the exhaust manifold studs are starting to get rusty it may be a good idea to replace them, you don't want to deal with snapped studs. Check the power steering system for leaks, it tends to leak by the reservoir or in my case the steering rack itself. Check all the vacuum lines, they get brittle with age and crack. If the rear window washer doesn't spray then you most likely just need to replace a check valve located in the driver side fender. Check the radiator hoses for cracks.

Take care of the car and it can easily go another 100,000 miles.
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Old 03-26-2013, 09:32 PM   #18
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get the stiffer rear sway bar, and im assuming if your doing a 3 inch exhaust you want power so get the cross flow intercooler from a viggen or 9-3 HOT (high output turbo) model. the stock ng ic sucks

and get a good tune once you get the hardware!

mikedtuning.com

after that youre gonna notice how much torque steer there is and consider a steering rack brace at least to help it
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Old 03-27-2013, 09:07 AM   #19
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get the stiffer rear sway bar, and im assuming if your doing a 3 inch exhaust you want power so get the cross flow intercooler from a viggen or 9-3 HOT (high output turbo) model. the stock ng ic sucks

and get a good tune once you get the hardware!

mikedtuning.com

after that youre gonna notice how much torque steer there is and consider a steering rack brace at least to help it
thanks for the reply! yeah believe it or not, I can allready feel the torque steer pretty good and its all factory, so yeah suspension upgrade is on the list further down the road... thanks for the info on the intercooler also, I will be on ebay looking for one soon, I am planning on a 3" exhaust allthough I do want more power, I dont want to comprimise the engine either... what do you think, HOT intercooler and 3 inch pipes should give it around 20 HP? Ive also seen tune kits that claim to really boost HP, are these a safe upgrade? I just want to keep them pesky mustangs at bay when the mood arises without blowing head gaskets...
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Old 03-27-2013, 09:22 AM   #20
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Here are some more things:
Check the rear shock mounts for rust, that is probably the first place it will start. Check the trunk after a good rain, make sure water isn't leaking in there from the sunroof drains. Oil the antenna as suggested in the owner's manual. If the exhaust manifold studs are starting to get rusty it may be a good idea to replace them, you don't want to deal with snapped studs. Check the power steering system for leaks, it tends to leak by the reservoir or in my case the steering rack itself. Check all the vacuum lines, they get brittle with age and crack. If the rear window washer doesn't spray then you most likely just need to replace a check valve located in the driver side fender. Check the radiator hoses for cracks.

Take care of the car and it can easily go another 100,000 miles.
Thanks, you guys have some great info! I checked the rear mounts, they have a little surface rust, but no "cancer" I will wire wheel that stuff down and I got some good epoxy primer to keep it from getting any worse, as far as the leaks the car is pretty tight, its been raining off and on for 3 days here and I couldnt find any moisture in the trunk and floorboards the power steering looks like it has been leaking a little, I will keep an eye on that too! now as far as the vaccume lines and rad hoses, they are going to need changing soon, I know silicone hoses are pricy but I think im going to drop some money towards them soon. Ive used them on other cars and never had any problems as far as drying out and cracking. the rear window sprayer works fine also. I really do appricate the help you guys are giving me it would have taken months to figure this stuff on my own!
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