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Old 11-12-2011, 02:58 AM   #1
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DIY Clutch replacement

Wad up S.L
I'm upgrading to a viggen clutch and pp, A.S.A.P.

I was just looking thru the write up on Platonoff.com on gearbox removal.

Looks like a pretty fucken big job

How difficult is this going to be for a backyard mechanic like myself? Who has never done a front wheel drive before. I've done like 3 rear wheel clutch replacements before but never a FWD.
Is there anything notable in particular that I can fuck up.
Anything I should look out for?
Any handy tips to save me from throwing anymore spanners than I have to.

I'm reasonably good with a spanner ,but nervous about this. I'm going to give it a go regardless

I need some words of encouragement.
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Old 11-12-2011, 04:06 AM   #2
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It's not that it's an incredibly difficult job, it's just that it can be frustrating. The only real piece of advice I can offer is give yourself plenty of time; platonoff walkthrough is awesome in that it lists out tools etc, so make sure you have everything you need and twice as long as you think you'll need to get it done. Nothing worse than needing the car back on the road the next day while its in pieces. While you're in there I'd replace the slave and maybe the diff oil seals, etc. Anything that's normally a pita to get to, is pretty easy when you've dropped the subframe.

Good luck!
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Old 11-12-2011, 05:20 AM   #3
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Yep, plenty of time. The first time I did one, i got so frustrated when I had everything apart, i thought about parting the car out! (oh wait, you wanted encouragement)

Make sure you bust those axle nuts off first. They require a big socket that most people don't have. Do it with the car on the ground, with the wheels on.

Some people debate on whether to take the passenger side intermediate shaft off, i say do it.

Make sure you have ALL the bell housing bolts off. The instructions you found have the information you need.

Try to find a helper to get the box back into the car. Its input shaft has to fit perfectly into the clutch assembly. This can be tough if you are laying under the car with the transmission on your chest trying to do a bench press.

The first time I did it, I forgot to re-attach the ground wire to the transmission, so nothing happened when I tried to start the car. It took me a day to figure out what I forgot. Give yourself time to walk away and come back fresh.

Good luck, it's not terrible, but it can be bad. Consider doing a rear main seal too while you're there.
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Old 11-12-2011, 05:34 AM   #4
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Don't psyche yourself out, it's not that hard. I've done about 9-10 now, in my driveway/garage on jackstands, getting faster each time.

Probably the most useful thing I've learned is something NickT pointed out to me. He told me to "sag the engine". After you have the subframe off and the engine/trans is being supported by your engine-suspension setup and the passenger side engine mount, put a floor jack under the engine/trans on the drivers side, to slacken the straps, and then make them longer to let the whole thing sag so that you can get at everything from the drivers side wheel well using sockets with extensions, double extensions.

The other thing is to make sure that everythings lined up when you're putting it back in . Pre-fit the driven plate onto the trans input shaft while it's outside the car, make sure it slides on smoothly, put a little moly grease on it. Then make sure the driven plate is centered correctly under the pressure plate, the plastic tools leave a little slop. Then when you're lining things up, have a screwdriver handy to advance/roatate the flywheel a tooth or two if the splines aren't lined up. Likewise for the passenger half shaft. If you force it, you can damage the splines, and then you have to pull the whole thing down again and file down the splines.

These trans are heavy but not crazy heavy, 110lbs I think. I put a rubber floor pad on my chest, put the trans on top of that, say a small prayer thanking God that I'm financially in a position to have a car that has a clutch problem and physically able to even think it's possible that I'm about to try lifting this stupid awkward thing, and then do a combination bench press, back bridge to get them in place. Not too hard, but you do have to be a little strong if you're going to try it w/o a trans lift.

I can do one complete in probably 5-6 hours, first couple took 2 days or so. I've heard of guys doing them in under 4 hours.
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Last edited by Drew in Houston; 11-12-2011 at 05:38 AM.
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Old 11-12-2011, 01:43 PM   #5
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on the ground i left the intermediate shaft in, if you do it this way it is pretty hard to get the trans back in by yourself. if you pull it out and you have a lil muscle you can prob do it by yourself pretty easily. IMO
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Old 11-12-2011, 02:01 PM   #6
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Thanks guys,
I've got 4 weeks holidays after Christmas. I'm going to give it a go then.
This is my shopping list so far:

Viggen Clutch & PP
Dummy shaft
Genuine clutch cable
Rear main seal
And I'm also going to replace all my engine and trans mounts to GS.
That's about all I'm going to need (I think)

Is there Anything else I might want to think about while I got the box out?
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Old 11-12-2011, 09:12 PM   #7
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First time I did my clutch, I took the intermediate shaft off.
Second time, I left it on.
Either way, two people are helpful.

If you have that much free time, you should swap to the hydraulic setup as well.

Might as well do the rear main seal while your there.
Don't forget new flywheel bolts if you remove the flywheel.
Also, don't forget new pressure plate bolts and axle nuts.
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Old 11-13-2011, 01:01 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srp View Post
First time I did my clutch, I took the intermediate shaft off.
Second time, I left it on.
Either way, two people are helpful.

If you have that much free time, you should swap to the hydraulic setup as well.

Might as well do the rear main seal while your there.
Don't forget new flywheel bolts if you remove the flywheel.
Also, don't forget new pressure plate bolts and axle nuts.
Rear main seal, for sure.
At the risk of sounding stupid, What the "intermediate shaft"?

Replace all the nuts and bolts huh. Probably not a bad idea.

I thought about doing the Hydraulic conversion but I've got that much going on now that I don't need to make extra jobs .
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Old 11-13-2011, 03:29 AM   #9
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The output of the transmission is not in the center of the car, it is over on the drivers side (actually, the whole transmission is really on the drivers side). The intermediate shaft lengthens the passenger side driveshaft. Effectively, the passenger side driveshaft is two main pieces, the intermediate shaft, plus the outer driveshaft which contains your CV joints. You'll know exactly what it is when you see it.
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Old 11-13-2011, 09:24 AM   #10
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Not all the nuts and bolts.
The flywheel and pressure plate bolts and the axle nuts are "one time use".
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Old 11-13-2011, 10:18 AM   #11
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if your removing the trans fill your own trans mount with polyurethane. its messy and takes time but you can do it if you can do a trans swap. you can fill the front mount too. i have pics of mounts i filled if you want them pm me. i can sell you a filled one i have already filled for $30 but shipping might kill it. plus if mine is too stiff you can drill out some material to soften it up. and just to let you know your car is going to shake like craazy if you do all the mounts. fine for a race car but not as good for street/daily. i did the trans mount and i can feel it a bit on start up and idle

also check out arp bolts for the flywheel

and i i like the cable clutch better than hydro. simple is better
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Old 11-13-2011, 01:44 PM   #12
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its worth noting that the cable will stretch faster and probably have a shorter life span with the heavier viggen pressure plate.

ive been thinking about a custom external slave hydro setup that actuates the normally cable driven arm that sticks out the tranny. that way its the best of both worlds, hydro consistancy with the ease of replacement since you wouldnt have to drop the tranny to replace the iffy slaves these cars can have.

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Old 11-13-2011, 04:32 PM   #13
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Take pictures.

I did my 9000 transmission (have done it several times now) and took a shit-ton of pictures, because no one ever posted a photogenic walkthrough of the procedure. I don't do well with manuals that have all the steps listed but no pics.

Good luck. It's not that hard, just a bunch of bolts.
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Old 11-13-2011, 06:50 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by messinian900S View Post
its worth noting that the cable will stretch faster and probably have a shorter life span with the heavier viggen pressure plate.

ive been thinking about a custom external slave hydro setup that actuates the normally cable driven arm that sticks out the tranny. that way its the best of both worlds, hydro consistancy with the ease of replacement since you wouldnt have to drop the tranny to replace the iffy slaves these cars can have.
thats a good idea. motorcycles use that and some dirtbike/quads. if you made this for decent price it would be worth it
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Old 11-13-2011, 11:51 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srp View Post
Not all the nuts and bolts.
The flywheel and pressure plate bolts and the axle nuts are "one time use".
Thanks,
: Noted on "to buy list"

Quote:
Originally Posted by BuHuSPG View Post
The output of the transmission is not in the center of the car, it is over on the drivers side (actually, the whole transmission is really on the drivers side). The intermediate shaft lengthens the passenger side driveshaft. Effectively, the passenger side driveshaft is two main pieces, the intermediate shaft, plus the outer driveshaft which contains your CV joints. You'll know exactly what it is when you see it.
I know what you mean now,Thanks.
By the way I'm in the southern Hemi,My steering wheel is on the "RIGHT" side

Quote:
Originally Posted by pitman View Post
if your removing the trans fill your own trans mount with polyurethane. its messy and takes time but you can do it if you can do a trans swap. you can fill the front mount too. i have pics of mounts i filled if you want them pm me. i can sell you a filled one i have already filled for $30 but shipping might kill it. plus if mine is too stiff you can drill out some material to soften it up. and just to let you know your car is going to shake like craazy if you do all the mounts. fine for a race car but not as good for street/daily. i did the trans mount and i can feel it a bit on start up and idle

also check out arp bolts for the flywheel

and i i like the cable clutch better than hydro. simple is better
Pitman, These home made mounts of yours, Are they as hard as race mounts ?
Are the GS "SPORT" mounts a bit softer than yours?

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Good luck. It's not that hard, just a bunch of bolts.
I think that's how I'm going to approach it . One step at a time.
Do one procedure than move onto the next.
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Old 11-21-2011, 11:52 PM   #16
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Hey guys,
when I take the sub-frame off, I'm hearing the bolts are real arseholes.
Can I use an air powered rattle gun? Or would that possibly break the bolts.
Would I be better of just using a breaker bar and my "massive" guns.
What do ya' think?
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Old 11-22-2011, 03:08 AM   #17
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Are they rusted, if so spray the crap out of them with pb, kroll or whatever you have and let them sit for a day or two, and keep spraying them. Breaker bar works fine, but if they are stubborn use heat.
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Old 11-22-2011, 04:52 AM   #18
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Use an air gun. I've never had one break, and I break a lot of bolts.
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Old 11-22-2011, 05:52 AM   #19
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Air gun is fine for subframe bolts, remember lefty loosy, rightly tighty and you'll be ok.

Quote:
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Hey guys,
when I take the sub-frame off, I'm hearing the bolts are real arseholes.
Can I use an air powered rattle gun? Or would that possibly break the bolts.
Would I be better of just using a breaker bar and my "massive" guns.
What do ya' think?
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Old 11-22-2011, 06:26 AM   #20
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Air gun is better. I break more bolts using a cheater pipe and leverage then I do with an air gun.
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