Iridium Plugs?

[ScandinavianRocketng900]

So ive searched on both saablink and saabcentral about this and havent gotten much good information on it. Most of the time people say that we shoulnt use NGK Iridium plugs in our cars (saabs). However, outside of saab I have great things about these plugs. I usually use the recomended platinums in my cars but if the iridiums arent actually bad for our cars i would like to use them. Like i said i have found plenty of people saying not to use iridium plugs in our cars but no real info on why.

[lms]

Other cars don't have trionic. Search on SC for Dr. Boost, if he states not to use them then that's good enough for me. I used them in my viggen until I read his posts and my plugs were always white as hell. Granted this isn't all plug related, but no iridium for me, especially when the cheap plugs are better.

[jk88]

The consensus seems to be that the regular NGKs are time-tested and proven, with the Iridiums providing no real difference at a higher price.

Bit of a discussion here, but you're right, no real "evidence" to the contrary. But if no one has shown an empirical advantage, why spend the extra money?

https://www.saablink.net/forum/genera...tion/32076.htm

[ScandinavianRocketng900]

Originally Posted by jk88

The consensus seems to be that the regular NGKs are time-tested and proven, with the Iridiums providing no real difference at a higher price.

Bit of a discussion here, but you're right, no real "evidence" to the contrary. But if no one has shown an empirical advantage, why spend the extra money?

https://www.saablink.net/forum/genera...tion/32076.htm

yup, thats kinda what i have found out and i was going to go with them since ive have friends that have said that they were pretty good. Also im getting ready for stage 3+ this summer and should replace plugs soon so i figured that a better plug might be a good idea but if they really arent that much better and maybe even BAD for a tronic car ill just stick with what i was doing thanks for the info guys

[lms]

Here's what he states" that the ion sensing capabilities of the plugs is reduced with the smaller surface area of the iridium and platinum tips.
More form Dr. Boost...
Hej !

Just read the thread, and must make some comments, se below.

B204E/L/R:BCPR7ES-11, gap:1.00-1.10 mm
B234E/L/R:BCPR7ES-11, gap:1.00-1.10 mm

B205E:BCPR6ES-11, gap: 1.00-1.10 mm
B205E:M/01-> with Saab tuningkit:PFR6H-10, gap:0.90-1.00 mm
B205BioPower:BCPR7ES-11, gap:1.00-1.10 mm

B235E:BCPR6ES-11, gap: 1.00-1.10 mm
B235L:PFR6H-10, gap: 0.90-1.00 mm
B235R:PFR6H-10 or possibly PFR7H-10, gap: 0.90-1.00 mm

B308E:BKR7ES-11, gap 1.00-1.10 mm (Different from 4-cyl)

Note:
1) Since the sparkplug is used as a sensor, the recommended type must be used, otherwise the "sensor reading can not be trusted".

2) Use only NGK plugs.

3) Electrode gap, use the values shown above. There is absolutly no truth in the myth "LPT 1.10 and Aeros 1.00".

4) Gap should be checked with a wire gauge.

5) You need a 16 mm or in inch, 5/8" sparkplug socket.

6) Tightening torque is very important, too loose will cause the plugs to overheat.
4-cyl.28 Nm
V6:27 Nm.
Or, if using NGK (Saab) sparkplugs, first just nip the plug with your fingers, then tighten with 3/4 of a turn.

7) Tighten the DI with 11 Nm.

The myth that All 4-cyl can use BCPR6ES-11 or BCPR7ES-11 is not true.

9) Under some circumstances different plugs can be used, we run BCPR5ES-11 on some markets, due to fuel quality and driving behaviour. However, DO NOT
try to be an expert, just simply because you're not ! Stay with the official advice.

10) For highly boosted high reving engines BCPR9ES-11 has been tried,
however, if you need cold hard plugs like this, you may consider your choice of tuner...

11) Also BCR8ES has been tried, once again, it may not be the best choice...
The BCR8ES plug is physically different from the BCPR plugs, the gap is "more hidden" and this is not what a engine expert aims for. The gap should normally be deep into the air/fuel mixture.

12) Do NOT use iridium plugs.

[messinian900S]

The gap values are ok when on stock boost levels, but at stage 3- I had to gap them down to around ~.85mm otherwise it just blows out and loses power.