Saab Link Forums banner

Subframe Brace Clearance Issues

1K views 14 replies 8 participants last post by  christian900se 
#1 ·
I just figured I would run this by everyone before I go and start trying to find washers. My GS 6pt subframe brace clearance with the DP is almost 0 and most of the time, the DP is rattling against the brace. I already tried to stick a wrench between the brace and the exhaust and tighten the DP flange but it is not enough.

My idea is to get metal washers to space the subframe brace about a 1/4" out to make more clearance, is this a dangerous or foolish idea? I plan on trying to find stainless steel washers for added strength, but I don't want to affect the effectiveness of the brace.
 
#3 ·
Perhaps you could use a bolt inbetween the brace and the sub-frame that way you change the position of the brace in some spots while keeping it in the "stock" location, say, in the rear. Or hell, lock washers?

You may also need longer bolts, I forget how much extra thead are on the bolts.

Anyways, my late night ideas make sense in my head. Hope it helps?
 
#4 ·
Haha, thanks Dan. The bolts have plenty of extra threads left on them which is why I think a spacer/washer will do the trick. Unfortunately, moving it around will not solve the problem since you will have the same clearance issue. Having one spacer that is a 1/6-1/4" would give me the clearance needed, but I don't want to stress anything or compromise the effectiveness of the subframe brace so I figured I would double check if this should be fine or not.
 
#9 ·
Ok, my DP is only just contacting the brace when in drive. You can especially hear it at idle, I just need a bit more clearance.

The downpipe pivots around the turbo connection. Usually it is as simple as loosening up the 3 bolts and holding the pipe up while tightening it back. The vibrations of the engine drive it down and forward. Making ti hang low..
I did that already, I wedged a wrench in between the DP and the brace and re-tightened the DP bolts but it wasn't enough. I would try and loosen the DP and the cat-back connection and try to clock it a bit but that connection is completely stuck (slip joint) to the point that an exhaust guy couldn't seperate them.
 
#12 ·
I ordered some 1/4 tall aircraft aluminum spacers to install at all 6 points of the brace, I need to call Nick tomorrow to get 4 of the longer bolts which are normally reserved for the rear two attachment points of the brace.

Thanks for the input szucman, I was debating on just getting a bunch of those SAE washers but somehow I rationalized that getting one spacer instead of a bunch of washers would be better in some way lol. Did you reuse the same bolts/hex screws that came with the brace or did you have to get longer ones?
 
#15 ·
If I knew what I know now, I certainly would have. However, I have yet to hear an exhaust that sounds like my JSP one as the note it makes is by far my favorite.

The cat converter is about a 1/2-3/4 of an inch away from the oil pan and there is less than a 1/4 of an inch between the 6pt brace and the bottom of the DP. That is after clocking it as far as possible.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top