Tutorial request. good Badges/ECU Or point me in right direction? - The Saab Link Forums

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General NG900 / Old 9-3 Posts and Information Please post general topics pertaining to the NG900 and old 9-3.

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Old 08-18-2009, 12:31 AM   #1
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Tutorial request. good Badges/ECU Or point me in right direction?

I didn't see one, but I'm looking for instructions on how to remove/replace an ECU (I have a 99 9-3).


There was a quick tutorial on getting bad badges off the car while protecting your paint, but I need to know how to get good badges off a car to re-use.

Tomorrow I'll be removing an ECU and Badges off a scrapper 900 to put on my 99 9-3.
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Old 08-18-2009, 04:25 AM   #2
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ECU is in the pass. footwell. IIRC, remove the glove box and you'll see it.

Badges, many ways. I just grabbed the smallest screwdriver I could find and pried them up.
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Old 08-18-2009, 04:26 AM   #3
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The rear badge on the 900 is a different size from the 9-3...
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Old 08-18-2009, 05:36 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stig View Post
ECU is in the pass. footwell. IIRC, remove the glove box and you'll see it.

Badges, many ways. I just grabbed the smallest screwdriver I could find and pried them up.
While you do not HAVE to remove the glovebox, it helps things greatly. After that pull off the door frame weather stripping by the carpet. Pull the carpet back and you will see the ECU. Should be held in place by 2 torx screws.
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Old 08-18-2009, 05:42 AM   #5
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awesome. Thanks guys.




Bummer about the rear badge.
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Old 08-18-2009, 07:25 AM   #6
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My ECU was held in with 10mm nuts.
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Old 08-18-2009, 07:30 AM   #7
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TO get the ECU out.

-Unscrew the 6 T25 Torx screws that hold in the glove box.
-Unscrew the 10mm bolt at the lower right hand corner of the box that goes through the carpet into the body.
-Pull back carpet.
-Unscrew the 10mm nut?/bolt that holds the ECU in, swing open the connector, and pull it down and out.
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Old 08-18-2009, 12:42 PM   #8
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Found out the car is a 95 900

Thanks on the ECU....removal was easypeasy. Although, this car for some reason had two extra bolts holding it in on the forward side (deeper into the footwell) as well as the one we already knew about.
Interesting.

I think in my other thread someone said the ECU in the NG900's were the same as the ECU in the 99 9-3 so this will be good to tune (and keep my stock 9-3 ECU untouched.

Badges wound up being a bummer though, the back badge is MINT (but wrong size for my car) the front badge is toast though.
IF and I do say IF....I have time, I'll remove the back badge to sell/trade so I can get a good badge that will fit my car.

I was lucky, the DI Cassette was already off (they had removed the head to see how bad the damage was to the engine)

Although I do have a question, the rubber parts that surround each nipple on the DIC, if there is a tear in the rubber part is a little ways up is that ok? That rubber is just there to make sure the DI is seated well yes?


Got the front grille too, I know it's a little different but I figure I'm going to paint it just for fun. I'll have two grilles then.
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Last edited by Saabinduction; 08-18-2009 at 12:45 PM.
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Old 08-18-2009, 12:45 PM   #9
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[QUOTE=Saabinduction;659434]

I think in my other thread someone said the ECU in the NG900's were the same as the ECU in the 99 9-3 so this will be good to tune (and keep my stock 9-3 ECU untouched.




Got the QUOTE]

The vapor purging i believe is differnt but it'll work fine for the most part
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Old 08-18-2009, 12:50 PM   #10
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Well, sorta. '95 and '96 tend to be 16Mhz boxes, the 99 will be a 20 Mhz box, which run smoother...plus I would be surprised if the flash chips in the 95 will read/write. I've had about 50-50 luck with the '96 boxes I've tried to tune in the past. Vapor purgin will make no difference as you'd be using the 95 box with newer software on it, even though the 95 software is OBDI, if you flash it with OBDII software it acts like a normal OBDII box (minus the slower clock speed).

The DIC will work fine as an emergency backup, but I would be worried about current leakage/sparking if there is a tear in the insulator boot. It's there to help center the DIC, but also to insulate the coils from the head.
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Old 08-19-2009, 12:11 AM   #11
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" '95 and '96 tend to be 16Mhz boxes"

Tend to? or are?
Would the frequency be labeled on the ECU case?
Too bad if that's the case. I was excited for a known working ECU to have you flash.
Ebay can be so shoddy at times.....


(NOTE: THIS IS NOT THE ACTUAL DIC...........for one...it's black, the real one is red. For two this one is fine, not damaged)
For the DIC it's like right here there is a tear in the rubber. Is it fixable or should I just be safe and give up? I'm wondering if my hesitation issues when I drive away in the first two gears the first time each day (and then everything is normal after that) are DIC related. I figured best way would be to just have another DIC around to swap out.
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Old 08-19-2009, 06:15 AM   #12
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95 and 96 boxes are 16MHz, you can confirm by opening the box (Torx T9) and looking at the ECU (Motorola) the last two digits on the processor signify the clock speed (16 or 20).

You can run a 16Mhz box, just be sure to flash 16Hmz software on it. You can run 16Mhz software on 20MHz hardware. Issues seem to arise running 20MHz software on 16MHz boxes, that is all.

The way to use that ECU is this...find a .bin that is 16MHZ, but OBDII (aka 96 or maybe some 97 software). Tune that up a stage or 3, then flash to the 95 box, if the flash will write, then your made.

As for the DIC. I would try to repair it...get a little silicone caulk and a spare spark plug. Pu tthe plug in there and see if it opens the crack at all. Then, silicone up the crack and let it dry. Little bit of dielectric grease inside each boot will halp provide extra insulation as well.

I'm going black DIC this winter...my red one is starting to occasionally throw codes after hard use.
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Last edited by 8valvegrowl; 08-19-2009 at 06:18 AM.
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