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Old 08-07-2009, 12:44 PM   #1
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Trans america viggen issues

I just drove my 1999 viggen with a friend 2400 miles pretty much non-stop from Montana to New Hampshire. All in all ran great, but a couple issues came up which were expected since I just built the engine and got everything put together. The car has been sitting for probably about a year or more with a blown engine.

The issues that arose on the drive are a vibration on acceleration from the passenger wheel, but it goes away at constant speed. I just had some work done on the driver side cv joint, and they replaced the wheel bearing saying that it was very worn out. I'm thinking that the wheel bearing on the passenger side may be worn out too. The vibration is kind of pulsating and will only be during acceleration. The other issue is I believe my AC compressor has worn out, it's making a weird sound even when the AC is not on.

Do you think a worn out wheel bearing could cause this vibration. I believe the axle has been replaced so I don't think it is the outer or inner CV, but it may be.
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Old 08-07-2009, 12:47 PM   #2
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i had a wheel bearing problem in my viggen. at first shop suspected ball joint and whole control arm but then another shop diagnosed the wheel bearing. it felt like something was grinding.
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Old 08-07-2009, 02:21 PM   #3
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Do a short belt mod with your serpentine before you seize your AC Compressor. When its seizes it will shred your belt and you cant do the cheap bearing fix on it anymore.
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Old 08-07-2009, 02:27 PM   #4
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This thread will help you with your AC issues for now.
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Old 08-07-2009, 02:50 PM   #5
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Old 08-07-2009, 03:50 PM   #6
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I'm willing to bet the tires are shot or have flat spots if it was sitting. They might not be the shake on acceration, but they'd be a good place to look.

Mine would shake badly at a certain speed though, not on acceleration....
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Old 08-07-2009, 04:24 PM   #7
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When I installed my Koni shocks and springs, like you it would vibrate while acclerating. It turns out the axle nut was not tightened all the way down (even though I wailed on it with a torque wrench (250 something ft-lbs in spec). Try that out since it is cheaper to tighten a nut first.
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Old 08-07-2009, 05:35 PM   #8
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Thanks guys, yeah I was already planning on doing the AC delete, thank you for the link. I am convinced that it is the wheel bearing. I know that the other wheel bearing was shot, and I know that the ball joints and everything else in that area have been replaced. I'm probably still running the original wheel bearing on that wheel with 139k on it. I'll look into getting it fixed. Does anyone have any experience replacing one of these? Also, how hard is it to replace the outer CV boot on our cars, The shop that replaced the outer CV on my drivers side butchered the job and it is loosing grease.
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Old 08-07-2009, 07:31 PM   #9
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It's not to "bad". I watched Dan do it at the shop one day. Basically the hardest part will be getting the snap ring out that holds the axle into the CV joint. Once you have that out it's easy. You just undo the back clamp and slide the old boot off and put on the new one. Snap the shaft back into the CV and tighten the outer clamp and re-install the axle.



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Old 08-08-2009, 08:25 AM   #10
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Do you have to remove the ball joint to get the axle out? I've installed axles in my car, but the ball joint was already separated and I was able to swing out the whole wheel assembly to get the axle through the hub. I also believe that on the viggen and 9-5 axles there is no snap ring, just removed with a rubber mallet. What about wheel bearings, does anybody have experience with this? Thanks.
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Old 08-09-2009, 03:06 PM   #11
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You can't remove the ball joint. You just remove the nut so that you can take the strut off of the suspension arms to get more room for removing the axle.

And yes there is a snap ring in the CV joint which holds the axle shaft in it [cv joint]. Otherwise the entire thing would pull apart and you'd be going no where any time soon.

As for wheel bearings haven't done one but I know all the brake components need to be removed, pull the strut assembly out, there are probably two circlip snap rings (one for each side) that need to be removed before using a press to get the old bearing out and the new one in.



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Last edited by NahumCC; 08-09-2009 at 03:08 PM.
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