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Old 06-05-2009, 06:28 AM   #1
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Clutch master cylinder how to tips.

Dip has a good write up that shows most of the pictures needed in his hydraulic conversion but for those of us that had it from the factory (hydraulic clutch) here is a tip for getting them out.

Sadly, one of the things the saab engineers failed to do was to make sure on the top left nut securing the hydro clutch assembly in the engine bay that there was enough clearance to work on it.

You'll find that you can't get a wrench on it decently no matter what end you used (open or closed) and that you can't put a socket and ratchet on it whether you use a deep socket or short socket.

There are multiple reasons for this. The first is that the power steering line practically buts up against the stud for the nut and prevents any hope of getting the ratchet on there. The other reason is because of the bracing that the brake booster bolts to is also in the way significantly reducing room for tools and hands.

This is more of a problem because you may find that the nuts don't want to budge at all if this is the first time since the factory that they have been bothered.

Non the less I do have a solution.

For the top nut that I referred to you'll need a 3/8th ratchet, a very long extension, a flex joint, and a short 13mm socket.

1. Get the 13mm socket on the nut and seated securely. There is just enough room to squeeze it past the power steering hard line.
2. Assemble your ratchet with the long extension and universal joint and proceed to run it past the back right side of the ABS unit and under the strut bar.
3. Once you have the end of the universal fitting down by the 13mm socket you'll discover you still can't get it into the socket but that's O.K. What you'll have to do now is get it into the socket as best you can and provide plenty of force to make sure you don't slip it out of the socket as you begin to break the nut free.
4. Once you have it going be careful and pay attention as while you're backing it out you'll be going up against that hard line and will eventually force the flex joint and 13mm socket together and be unable to remove them with the nut and possibly damage the P.S. line. So its really a game of balance.
5. Once you've got it loose pull the socket and all off of the nut and back it out by hand.

The bottom nut (below the wiring harness grommet from the fuse box) is easier. Just use the same setup with a shorter extension but you won't have to worry about backing into anything and getting stuck.

The rest of Dips write up will be spot on.

2013 FR-S

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