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Old 04-21-2009, 11:21 PM   #1
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Cleaning MAF

Hi guys what do u use to clean the MAF? Heard that u just take it off and spray it with something
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Old 04-22-2009, 03:33 AM   #2
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compressed air?
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Old 04-22-2009, 03:55 AM   #3
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CRC makes a MAF cleaner. I used it on my 9-3 and Trans AM.
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Old 04-22-2009, 06:51 AM   #4
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Brake cleaner or an evaporative solvent like Benzene will work great.
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2.0 GOOSE 500whp + 8500rpm = 11.06 @125 E85
Viggen 439whp / 447tq 12.43 @114 on Gt2871.64, (Now 511whp Gt3076)
Nordic E85 9-3 SS Aero 320hp / 350ftlbs
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Old 04-22-2009, 07:20 AM   #5
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I would not use compressed air.
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Old 04-22-2009, 08:09 AM   #6
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Electrical contact/parts cleaner works just fine, and it's 100% safe for all MAF components. Available at Home Depot or Vato-Zone.
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Old 04-22-2009, 12:05 PM   #7
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I would not use compressed air.
out of curiosity... why?
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Old 04-22-2009, 12:08 PM   #8
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The little elements (wires) are a bit fragile.
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Old 04-22-2009, 01:19 PM   #9
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Can somebody explain to me this Theory of "CLEANING A MAF" Why Does it need to be Cleaned? What is this Accomplishing "IN THEORY" What Are People Trying to fix? how is a Thermistor Contaminated? By anything other than WATER? Compressed AIR? Solvents? Thermistors are Quite Delicate and I try to do as little at possible to avoid SHOCKING a Precision Electronic Device.
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Old 04-22-2009, 01:36 PM   #10
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The oil from open air fiters ie K&Ns can coat the small sensors in the MAF. It happened to my friends 00MCY Viggen. The result was a faulty reading from the MAF. The car ran fast as hell, yet threw a CEL. A saab delership took the car in for a full diagnotsic. Cleared it saying no issues...Long story, short: The motor went bang 1/4 mile after he left the dealership. Most things pointed to the MAF. Also Paul @ Automotion (SQR) recommends a fresh MAF when tuning high-output tunes
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Old 04-22-2009, 01:47 PM   #11
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The oil from open air fiters ie K&Ns can coat the small sensors in the MAF. It happened to my friends 00MCY Viggen. The result was a faulty reading from the MAF. The car ran fast as hell, yet threw a CEL. A saab delership took the car in for a full diagnotsic. Cleared it saying no issues...Long story, short: The motor went bang 1/4 mile after he left the dealership. Most things pointed to the MAF. Also Paul @ Automotion (SQR) recommends a fresh MAF when tuning high-output tunes
Wow that Sucks, I'm sorry to hear that, I've replaced Tons of Mafs Mostly T7 cars due to thermister failure and have never seen a failure due to some sort of contamination that could be corrected by cleaning. Adding Solvent to a Thermister Knowing how it works Sounds Rediculous. Mafs Fail Due to HEAT, Moisture, And Lead to Thermister/processorBoard Failure.
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Old 04-22-2009, 02:49 PM   #12
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Have you ever looked at airmass actual vs calculated? there is even a calculation of this called Airmass Deviation in a % shown on tech2. This along with fuel trims can diagnose it quite quick. Most BAD airmass meters are not failed just have drifted signals. You have to be in steady state constant throttle to read it. If the turbo is packing air then it will read wrong.

One day I collected like 10 AMM (Some known bad, some new off shelf others out of our cars in the lot.) and tied one of my cars on the dyno resetting the ecu each time so that we could get actual readings. There was a 50whp variance between them! I even tested A > B > A to make sure it was good data. T7 will adapt somewhat with fuel trims but they will never throw a fault. This is why saab gave a special page F6 in the T7menu of tech2 to quickly! This is what kills most T7 motors.
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2.0 GOOSE 500whp + 8500rpm = 11.06 @125 E85
Viggen 439whp / 447tq 12.43 @114 on Gt2871.64, (Now 511whp Gt3076)
Nordic E85 9-3 SS Aero 320hp / 350ftlbs

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Old 04-22-2009, 03:18 PM   #13
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I use airmass deviation alot for those Not so obvious leaks, Hav you ever hooked a classic 900 to a Smoke macheine to look for leaks? HAHAHA if you got the Joke, Quite alot of smoke to be found, I've Found that customers HEARD the DEATH RATTLE DETONATION When the Airmass Meter Failed but Never thought anything of it till the Big BANG theory took Full Effect and the Consequence of ignoring that Rattle under boost.
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Old 04-23-2009, 01:02 PM   #14
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Can somebody explain to me this Theory of "CLEANING A MAF" Why Does it need to be Cleaned? What is this Accomplishing "IN THEORY" What Are People Trying to fix? how is a Thermistor Contaminated? By anything other than WATER? Compressed AIR? Solvents? Thermistors are Quite Delicate and I try to do as little at possible to avoid SHOCKING a Precision Electronic Device.
A little bit after first getting my car, it was feeling a bit doggy. Simply cleaning the MAF made a difference. This is something I have done since back in the GM TPI and Ford HO 5.0 days. It works, and causes no damage that isn't already there. The key is to use a high quality "Electrical Parts Cleaner". Not sure if "MAF Cleaner" is the same formulation, but I would trust Any Electro-Motive type electrical parts cleaner.

It isn't always the remedy, but it's worth a shot. Mine was giving some borderline questionable readings on my Viggen, but was immediately replaced under warranty. That was about 15k miles ago. It just got douched when I changed the air filter.

Last edited by Gryphon; 04-23-2009 at 01:05 PM.
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Old 04-24-2009, 10:40 AM   #15
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you gotta watch those electric cleaners and ensure you don't get one the puts down a thin silicone coat along with it as a number of them do.

I've always used the CRC MAF Clearer twice a year with success....still have my orgional MAF on my 2000 Vig and have Nordic Stage 4.

My calculated and actual air mass numbers are nearly dead on now that I can see them in the SID with the SID Sensor function enabled.
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Old 05-30-2009, 01:13 PM   #16
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This thread just saved me $300. I picked up the CRC MAF cleaner at a local napa, with awesome results. My viggen was kind of slow to get on boost, a little abrupt when it did, and was having trouble reaching end of the yellow on the stock gauge. Nothing dramatic, and no cel, but not quite right. After a quick 15 minute cleaning, boost comes on quick and smooth, and sits rock steady at the edge of the red in 3d gear and up. Just like new.

I replaced my maf at 60K miles, and was about to do the same when I saw this thread. Thanks!

edit - My second maf now has about 55K miles on it. I'm going to start cleaning it a lot more regularly.

Last edited by stevbd; 05-30-2009 at 01:15 PM.
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Old 05-31-2009, 05:26 AM   #17
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what was your cleaning process? Just spray and reinstall?
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Old 05-31-2009, 08:23 AM   #18
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Yup, that's pretty much it. Just be careful not to touch the wires themselves. The cleaner dries in a few minutes.

By the way, I have a stock intake. As with your friend's Viggen, I'm sure the problem is a lot worse with open air / k&n filters.
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Old 05-31-2009, 01:19 PM   #19
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When I clean mine I usually hit it with something a bit harder first, like a brake parts cleaner to remove the really stuck on crap, and then hit it with the CRC to wash away the residue left by the brake parts cleaner. The CRC stuff works really good but by itself it is kind of weak and it would leave stuff behind.
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Old 06-01-2009, 01:54 PM   #20
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Yup, that's pretty much it. Just be careful not to touch the wires themselves. The cleaner dries in a few minutes.

By the way, I have a stock intake. As with your friend's Viggen, I'm sure the problem is a lot worse with open air / k&n filters.
The K&N's have a lot (seems excess) of oil from the factory
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