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Old 01-25-2018, 02:07 PM   #1
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B204L in a 2002 9-3 se.

So I was looking around before I posted and surprisingly didnt find much specific about this swap, perhaps my browing skills arent great or maybe its because its just straight forward but I deinitely want the b204L because its just a better motor. The symptoms of my current motor is blow by out the oil cap (blew oil cap apart) the motor starts right up but with serious tail pipe smoke, and runs extremely rough hopping around in the engine mounts. Definitely does not seem like something id want to rebuild because #1 i don't have the money for forged pistons and #2 because I cant most likely find a b204L for cheap maybe even a transmission. So basically would everything for the most part work? I know id have to modify for the td04 turbo because ive had two ng900s that I did td04 swaps on. Also its t5 and my car is t7 tuned so id need a reflash I'm guessing. Also feel like the pcv system may be different? Or maybe that's just because I have the update kit. It seems like itd be a pretty straight forward swap? They seem identical even the intake manifold? Any help is appreciated I do not want to use another "eco power" motor ever again. I had two ng900s and those motors were both amazing at over 200k this b205 lasted only 140k

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Old 01-25-2018, 02:45 PM   #2
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So I did find a link from saab central from a Google search seems everyone is saying to use the b204L block and head gasket with the b205 head. As far as cars goes I'm very handy and a good learner but im not sure if my cylinder head could get damaged from my motor breaking? I think it's a blown piston ring and my head gasket isn't the issue. So I'd assume itd be fine to re use the head.

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Old 01-25-2018, 04:03 PM   #3
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How are you sure it's not the head gasket?

The only difference between the bottom end of the B204 and B205 is the rods and pistons. B204 ones are beefier, but heavier. Everything else is identical for the sake of argument. You need to swap the end plates off your B205 onto the B204 block so the accessories all attach correctly.

The T7 B205 cylinder head does flow much better than the T5 head, so re-use your old one.

The tune stays the same since you will be re-using all of your T7 sensors.

The other thing that you can do if you're sure it's a piston is pull the head and drop the oil pan. Then you can pull the rods and pistons out. If the cylinder bores are Ok, then you can just put in B204 rods and pistons with new connecting rod bearings and slap it back together.

As long as the cylinder bores aren't scored or pitted you're good to go with your existing block, and this will be much cheaper and easier for you. You can do the main bearings while you're at it and have a totally fresh bottom end for a few hundred dollarydoos. If you can feel a score or scratch with your fingernail, then the score is too deep. If you see a visual indication of wear but can't feel it then you're good to go. If one of the piston comes out in pieces, then the block is likely damaged too badly to re-use as is and you'll need a block, but sometimes they crack in a way that cracks the rings but doesn't damage the block.

I made this post for just such an occasion:
https://www.saablink.net/forum/genera...tion/49887.htm
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Old 01-25-2018, 04:12 PM   #4
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Ok only Thing is reading more around online jzw says matting the b204L block to the t7 head I will loose a decent amount of compression and itll be more sluggish off the start. I definitely dont want that, so maybe im better off just rebuilding my existing motor like you said but I don't think I can use b204L pistons and rods in my b205 since theyre bigger id probably just throw wossners in if I could.

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Old 01-25-2018, 04:17 PM   #5
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Also as far as the gead gasket goes I'm pretty Damn sure its fine because I just did a coolant flush and its looks fine. Also did a visual check of the hg externally and thats looks fine besides a small leak ive been aware of. Also it just sounds like the motor is messed up and not just running with bad compression (it does start right up) I'm no car expert but I'm guessing its a blown piston ring or rings which is causing oil in the combustion chamber, hence the white smoke out my exhaust

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Old 01-25-2018, 04:28 PM   #6
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For a little more background knowledge I was on the highway going around 140 and the car started feeling like it wasnt running right anymore so I get off the gas and a moment later the oil light comes on. I coast off the highway, park at a commuter lot and look under the hood. The oil cap was popped off and oil had come out from there everywhere. I popped the oil cap back on but this time it blew the whole cap apart when I started it and billowed smoke from the hood so I Towed it home 8 hours later and I started it up for a minute and it smokes from.the tail pipe but theres no oil light on. The oil level was actually not that low at all maybe a quarter of a quart low but it definitely had an off smell to it almost burnt. With all the and the motor shaking horribly when it runs im definitely not having a head gasket issue ?

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Old 01-25-2018, 05:27 PM   #7
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used b235's must be about a dime a dozen in Ct. these days.....just sayin'
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Old 01-25-2018, 05:53 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by seriks1 View Post
used b235's must be about a dime a dozen in Ct. these days.....just sayin'
What are you saying though? I dont want a b235 swap though sure its a 2.3 but its still not a b204L or a 205r with wossners, it still doesn't handle abuse as ive blown up a 2002 9-5 aero before. I mean perhaps you're saying just swap a b235 in and then worry about upgrading the pistons another time?

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Old 01-25-2018, 06:00 PM   #9
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I don't want to see another saab sent off to the junk yard and I dont have the environment to part it out so unless I get a good offer on it I definitely want to replace this engine. But I'm skeptical about doing the b204L block on the 205r head because jzw said my compression will drop and itll be sluggish at lower speeds and our cars are already slow at low speeds so I dont want it any worse.

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Old 01-26-2018, 05:44 AM   #10
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so, you don't want a b2x5, or a b204 with a t7 head, and you want to do 140 without blowing up engines. Sounds like maybe a Saab just isn't for you?

I'm not hacking on you, but there seems to be some unrealistic expectations here
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Old 01-26-2018, 05:50 AM   #11
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No I dont want to go 140 again until I have a built motor as it clearly wont handle it. I'm actually all for just doing the 205r swap with a known good motor ans just throwing forged pistons and t5 cam latwr on. Or a 235 would work right. Saabs are definitely for me ive been driving 8 years and only owned Saabs.

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Old 01-26-2018, 06:15 AM   #12
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No if hack on me too if those were my expectations... I see why youd assune that from what ive written but that's not the case

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Old 01-26-2018, 03:30 PM   #13
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So I'm confused guys. Its hard to see in this pictures since it was dark but the oil is straight brown and milky. And yes my coolant is low. So i mean everything now does lean me towards thinking it's just the head gasket but at the same time my exhaust billows smoke but it smells more like burning oil if anything not coolant perhaps Also every spark plug had oil on it especially cylinder 4 so oil is in the combustion chamber, and they were burnt black and only had maybe 1k miles on them. I'm going to slap the car back together tomorrow and get it running so I can get a friends opinion and do a compression test. Can a bad head gasket cause oil in the combustion chamber? I'm thinking its piston rings but on every cylinder? Any input is appreciated

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Old 01-26-2018, 07:41 PM   #14
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So to keep rambling on here my friend just suggested I put a new cylinder head in as I can get one for 75$ and he thinks mine is broken since all cylinders have oil in them. Might just try that and the head gasket gets replaced then as Well

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Old 01-27-2018, 06:39 AM   #15
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I think you're going to find a cracked/damaged piston when you get that head off. That's pushing oil up into the intake through the pcv system, explaining the oil in ALL the cylinders
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Old 01-27-2018, 06:42 AM   #16
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Ok well im tearing it apart right now, I cant seem to find a diy guide ? I know I can leave the intake and exhaust manifold on but I'm not sure what to do with all those fuel rail connections and throttle body. That pic shows what I have off for noe just the intake and delivery pipe for the throttle body, valve cover is off just sitring on top so i dont drop anything inside.

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Old 01-27-2018, 06:45 AM   #17
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I was going to start dismantling the manifold from the down pipe, looks like the power steering brakcet needs to go too, as well as the belt tensioner. From there I was going try and dismantle the fuel rail and throttle body but not 100 percent sure how some of those connections to together


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Old 01-27-2018, 06:47 AM   #18
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I'm pretty hands on all I need is a written list of what to do... Plantoff diy didnt have a cylinder head removal I could find

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Old 01-27-2018, 10:34 AM   #19
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Found some pretty bad guides clearly made for experts. I'm almost there. But I'm struggling with the fuel rail and intake manifold bolts. Any tips? I'm not sure how to disconnect the fuel connections going to the rail and how many bolts are holding the intake manifold to the head? I see 5? Theyre 13mm bolts I've gotten 3 out so far. Thanks for any help guys! I know ive been posting excessively, but this is all a learning proccess for me

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Old 01-27-2018, 11:42 AM   #20
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I think im almost there guys... Any help at this point is appreciated since I'm at a stand still. I know I need to tool to dissconnect my two fuel lines so after that the rail will come right out I have the injector clips off and the two 10mm bracket bolts for the rail. After that should I attempt to take the intake manifold bolts off? I've gotten two but I read somehwhere online I can pull the whole head with the intake manifold on still? If I can avoid taking that off thatd be great. Definitely feel I'm getting there


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