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Old 03-06-2016, 08:15 PM   #1
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Head Swap

I picked up a '02 viggen about 6 months ago. I went to change the spark plugs about two months ago and found a cross threaded plug in bank 1. Thank you PO. Anyway, I had a spare 235 head and figured it was a good reason for a head swap with a valve job and t5 cams.

I live in Denver, but the head was buried in my parents basement in Milwaukee. I had them take it to the good folks at Country Imports for the machine work. I fly back into town next weekend and will be picking the head up on the 14th (pictures to come). Since Southwest is awesome and graciously gives free checked bags, I will be putting it in a suitcase (obviously wrapped and protected like no ones business).

Anyway, this is my first head job and will be looking for some pointers along the way. I'll be swapping it with my buddy who has built a fully forged 234r but it was quite some time ago. The only thing making me nervous is the timing..keeping that straight and such

Am I missing anything part wise:
Exhaust mani gasket
Intake mani gasket (which 9-3s had the two piece manifold?)
Head gasket
Turbocharger gasket
Exhaust stud kit (GS)
Valve cover gasket
New plugs
ARP head bolts (have from previous build)

Anything else I should replace at the same time?

Thanks in advance!


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Old 03-07-2016, 05:20 AM   #2
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Buy the Elring head gasket kit. It comes with almost everything you need.
I will say- I've blown-out 2-3 of their exhaust manifold gaskets. If there's a MLS one, that'd be ideal.
(thesaabsite sells the OE gasket- $26 Vs the $10 for the elring)

If you have any plans to upgrade the turbo/manifold, I'd buy ARP hardware. Same as you're doing with the head-studs.

You may want to buy extra studs/nuts for the turbo-to-manifold. They may back out, and If they do, you're better to just pop new stuff in.

When I last bought the exhaust manifold stud kit from EEuro (proparts, I think), the end that went into the head was substantially shorter than what came out. by 4-5 threads. I was seriously concerned about ripping the threads out of the head while torqueing. Make sure you're getting a good stud kit; you don't want a discount kit that's not stainless or at least zinc coated.


Don't forget the cam plug. the machine shop will likely have removed the old one, and you can't run the car w/out it. Did your shop replace the seals and adjust the guides?

You'll also want to make sure you have the right socket for the chain tensioner. I think it's a deep 26mm.

Replace the thermostat, and I'd probably replace the heater core hoses while it's apart.
Same with the temp sensor, actually.

oh! Make sure you have both mating surfaces of the manifold planed!
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Old 04-18-2016, 08:44 PM   #3
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Thanks for the info. Deciding on exhaust mani studs meow..I'm not sure the ARP SS studs are the worth the money..

Country Imports said the head looked great and was straight so they didn't plane the head gasket side of head. Is it worth getting a second opinion?

When dealing with the timing and removing the old head..is it easier to set the motor to TDC and then zip tie the sprockets to the timing chain? Or can I set TDC via the crank and release the chain tensioner? Either way I should zip tie the sprockets to chain and then remove the sprockets from the cams, correct?


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Old 04-18-2016, 09:06 PM   #4
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Just found my answer. I should set timing on the crank, then set it on the cam sprockets. Hold the end of the cams so they don't move while releasing tension on the cam sprockets


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Old 04-19-2016, 03:09 AM   #5
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When you tdc the crank, you tdc the cams.
Don't over-think it. Just line em up, put on your zipties, and be done.

As for the studs, it's your call. You can find ss studs that aren't arp.

And the head; same. What did he do? Anything?
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Old 04-19-2016, 03:37 AM   #6
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I don't agree with Craig, it's important to get it right and when setting timing make sure that you spin it by hand a few times.

It's normal that when you line everything up you'll be off a tooth when the tensioner takes up the slack. Make sure you observe the paint markings on the chain to get the right number of links between the cam sprockets--I've fixed 2 engines with undiagnosable idle issues that were off a tooth on one cam. After that's right, and you've turned the engine with the tensioner installed, it'll be a matter of taking the spring out of the tensioner, leaving it extended, loosening the sprockets and advancing or retarding the chain by one tooth to get things right.

There are two things going on, tensioner is on back of the block and the chain slack may be on the front side so it's off when you turn it and the slack is taken up, and also tolerances will make the marks not line up exactly--I've never seen one line up perfectly.

Also, you might think about changing the water pump while you're at it.
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Old 04-28-2016, 07:07 PM   #7
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Got the head in the mail. Everything looks good in shipping; I would highly recommend bikeflights.com



I got a second opinion on the head and it definitely needs a resurface. I dropped it off today. I'll pick it back up Monday. Install the following week. Also put in my order with eeuro for all the rest of the gaskets and such.
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Old 04-28-2016, 07:12 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew in Houston View Post
It's normal that when you line everything up you'll be off a tooth when the tensioner takes up the slack. Make sure you observe the paint markings on the chain to get the right number of links between the cam sprockets--I've fixed 2 engines with undiagnosable idle issues that were off a tooth on one cam. After that's right, and you've turned the engine with the tensioner installed, it'll be a matter of taking the spring out of the tensioner, leaving it extended, loosening the sprockets and advancing or retarding the chain by one tooth to get things right.

There are two things going on, tensioner is on back of the block and the chain slack may be on the front side so it's off when you turn it and the slack is taken up, and also tolerances will make the marks not line up exactly--I've never seen one line up perfectly.
This makes good sense. Thank you for the clarification.

I'm still a bit confused on how to make sure the cam is positioned correctly when on install. I have this stickied for install. https://www.saablink.net/forum/car-pr...only/62865.htm

The machinist I dropped the head off with said I need to find a cam alignment tool..
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Old 04-29-2016, 02:50 AM   #9
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there's no need for a cam alignment tool. setting the timing is rather simple. there are flat spots machined on the cams so you can get a wrench on it to hold it while setting the chain on it.
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Old 05-07-2016, 03:54 PM   #10
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Quote:
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there's no need for a cam alignment tool. setting the timing is rather simple. there are flat spots machined on the cams so you can get a wrench on it to hold it while setting the chain on it.
Good deal. After more reading.. I remove the timing chain tensioner before I set timing and remove the head? Will the tensioner stay in place or do I need to keep track of the amount it is extended?

Picking up the head Monday morning. Monday will be the day, trying to finish it all on Monday. Any suggestions on cleaning the top of the short block? I was going to use a razor blade and plug the oil/coolant passages with cotton balls.. Should the piston tops get cleaned as well?
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