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Old 07-12-2015, 05:22 PM   #1
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Lost power..would only crank...stayed alive if I gave it gas

During a wot I lost power to the car. I tried to restart after coasting to a stop..would only crank. Finally gave it some gas as i cranked (a few attempts, I was able to keep the car alive and make it the 10 miles home. I checked my hoses and noticed a hose was not attached to the compressor. What does the turbo compressor vacuum hose which goes from the boost control valve to the turbos compressor housing really do? Other than that, put in dry gas in the tank, changed the plugs as they seemed a bit wet with gas and 1.0 gapped, not .9, started it up and it has driven fine since (60miles), but haven't done any wot pulls.
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Old 07-13-2015, 05:18 AM   #2
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Which car is this?
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Old 07-13-2015, 10:20 AM   #3
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the white 2000 t7 9-3
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Old 07-14-2015, 08:53 AM   #4
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The line from the turbo to the wastegate solenoid supplies boost that is either bled-off of applied to the wastegate.

No pressure to the solenoid means the wastegate wouldn't open, and you'd overboost.

The bigger issue is that the 2000 is T7, which is metered air, and is VERY particular about leaks in the intake system, whether it's boost leaking, or vacuum leaks.
I'm sure that re-attaching the hose was all that needed fixed, but check the rest of your hoses/clamps. That seems like kind of a small leak to case the car to not idle.
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Old 08-27-2015, 05:35 PM   #5
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Happened again. Didn't find any hoses off this time. The car started up without problem after, but felt like it lacked power...maybe limpish mode... Boost only got to 22psi during wot. Sent an email to JZw about the stage5 tune I have to try to get answers. This has happened the two times I have wot to test the ppc tune as I have not been able to really drive the car this summer. Ideas?
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Old 08-28-2015, 01:27 PM   #6
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You're sure there's not a tear or leak in the IC pipes/hoses?
Have you checked to see if the MAF is covered in filter oil?

The important thing to remember with T7, is that they're torque request, so boost doesn't matter, as long as it's hitting the calculated torque.
Although, a significant intake leak would send MAFcount way-high, and you'd see less boost, and potentially fuel-cut, but certainly a loss in powahz!
You have a AF gauge?
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Old 08-28-2015, 05:52 PM   #7
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Check tb and the car is not in limp mode. Have a wideband af coming soon. I 'll check the hoses again but didn't see any. What's a healthy vacuum on a cold start up idle in park anyway? my oem maf with 30k on it is attached to the stock air box with a k/n drop in filter
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Old 08-29-2015, 03:18 AM   #8
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I think mine is only around 15 in/hg.
Most other turbo cars (Volvo/DSM) cars I've driven were around 18.

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Old 08-29-2015, 03:41 AM   #9
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and that's cold at start up in park. both of my t7 9-3 have only been at 10psi at cold start in park. Lower if the acc is on. Take off into drive and a minute or so the vacuum is at 15psi, then when warm and on high speed decelerations it goes to the low 20's. Think I've got a leak or something?....
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Old 08-29-2015, 04:54 AM   #10
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https://www.saablink.net/forum/car-pr...only/24044.htm

I've never looked at cold idle. I use open sid, too. no gauge for me.
you might be alright. some leaks don't show until boost, though.

Also, it wasn't very long ago that someone had an issue with their intake hose (pre-turbo) collapsing at higher boost. Do you have a rubber hose between the MAF and turbo?
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Old 08-29-2015, 07:08 AM   #11
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I have the stock box/hose intake system with a drop in k/n filter attached to the king cobra pipe
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Old 10-06-2015, 07:53 AM   #12
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Installed the wideband this morning...read 15.1 at park idle. anyone now where turners usually keep the a/f ratio at idle and acceleration
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Old 10-06-2015, 08:17 AM   #13
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14.7:1
15.1:1 might be an error in calibration. Did you have to calibrate it before you used it?
I wouldn't be too concerned with 15.1:1 at idle. It won't harm anything.
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Old 10-06-2015, 08:23 AM   #14
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I went out and tried it again. Seemed to stay in the 14.6-14.9 range
Went for a small drive, not really boosting over 12psi. Always seemed to stay in the 14's on regular driving and the open sid mreq/mair was always pretty close in #.
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Old 10-06-2015, 11:27 AM   #15
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Well, on load, it should lower to 11:1 or so, depending on your tuner. Some go as high as 12.5:1, some as low as 10.5:1 over 12.5:1 WOT is pretty dangerous on forged pistons, stock, you'd want way lower.
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Old 10-06-2015, 01:15 PM   #16
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went out and tried boosting again, up to 15psi and saw# when i could in the mid 11's. Didn't want to really push it as i didn't want to have the car possibly shut down again and not rear home/help.

I also put in new plugs.. I had the 7es-11 in and changed to the correct 7es, put on a new oem di, the old on has a small crack on the bottom side with unknown mileage , put in a new oem maf as I didn't know how to test the old one, and changed out the cps to a new bosch unit. As wel as droped the pan for cleaning/check
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Old 10-07-2015, 05:26 AM   #17
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How about a factory ECU or stock tune? Do you have an open SID? Can you see your fuel adaptation?
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The only reason it took all day to install was because we couldn't keep our dicks out of each others mouths.
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Old 10-07-2015, 06:40 AM   #18
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11.5 sounds perfect.
I don't advocate throwing parts at a problem, but I think you replaced everything that would cause a problem, except for the CPS.

The -11 and regular are the same plug, but with different gaps. Are you checking the gaps before you put the plugs in?
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Old 10-07-2015, 02:15 PM   #19
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yes to the gaps .9
yes to open sid but im not sure what to look at other than the Mreg vs Mair and making sure they are pretty close to one another was the car accelerates.

The di was $150 and i had planned on getting one anyway
The maf was $89 and the cps was $64
Dropping the pan was $20 in stuff
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Old 10-07-2015, 02:17 PM   #20
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Typically called AMUL, let us know what the value is.
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