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Old 09-23-2014, 06:00 AM   #1081
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Originally Posted by B202nut-2.0 View Post
Saab needed me in the design department. They would still be in business
BLAST! That is what they were missing!
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Old 09-23-2014, 07:13 AM   #1082
 
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Originally Posted by BuHuSPG View Post
BLAST! That is what they were missing!
yeah I said it. NG Saabs are like cheap rental cars inside... everything about them inside looks cheap.

Classics are just totally wrong when it comes to any sense of comfort ability after the seats. everything else is as basic as a car gets... and no arm rest! that's just a sin!!!


I am putting the C in comfort; Indeed I am....

Verts are like bat caves with windows... from a comfort standpoint they suck balls through a straw.

I have changed the drive comfort in my car drastically and I am not done yet..

Stick around and watch.... we are just getting started mate...

The classics need padding, lighting and warmth inside... a few more auxiliaries, and they should always be air-conditioned!

(top down or air cooled).. Lol...


A couple years ago when I was laying out the blue print for my interior I asked a female friend, "why makes you buy a car".

She retorted: "the sound of the turn signal blinkers when I blip the switch".. after I shit myself, I said, "she would never buy a Saab"..

So yes mate, interior comfort matter much when investing in a car... even if its as simple as the sound of the turn signal...

its why BMW has a team of engineers to determine what sounds like what when you hit a switch..


but if you don't know........ well.,...... you just don't know........

Cheers

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Old 09-23-2014, 08:54 AM   #1083
 
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So I decided to play with LEDs. I know I can buy them for like $5 each but the white bulbs cost $.75 and the green ones were $.40. The resistors were $.06 each so unpaid $5 for all 7 lights

All from my local overstock electric supply store

Question for you electrical engineers


If I solder these in series, can I use 1 resistor at the beginning of the strip of bulbs to reduce current to the entire lot or do I need a resistor on each positive leg of the LED bulb?




These are going behind the ventilation controls to brighten up the fascia. Leaving the stock ones insitu I will drill holes and wedge these in as extras.

The larger green ones will be fit to the instrument cluster. Something is going on with that film paper my stock bulbs don't work in the instrument cluster so oppose to fiddling around I will just wire these in place.

Thanks

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Old 09-24-2014, 05:00 AM   #1084
 
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Being taught electronics 101 on the other forum

So these will be wired in a parallel circuit.
The big green bulbs in 1 and 5 white LEDs in the other


I forgot to buy shrink wrap so gotta go back for that

SAAB put a lot of reflecting plastic behind the fascia. I just don't see how they expected those e tiny stock bulbs to illuminate them

Lets fix that with some LEDs from my cheap ass good for nothing surplus store.
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Old 09-24-2014, 05:10 AM   #1085
 
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I can say with all certainty none of that reflecting plastic is illuminated when my lights are on at night.




My stock fascia bulbs have clearly seen better days so this is actually necessary

So I am adding 3v LEDs to brighten up all this. Will use my solder iron to make the holes to wedge the bulbs.



Does anyone know if silicone will hurt the base of the LED bulb?

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Old 09-24-2014, 05:25 AM   #1086
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LEDs are a worthy upgrade! I want to do the heated seat switches in my 9-5, kinda hard.
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Old 09-24-2014, 04:46 PM   #1087
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When wiring the led, the short wire is the cathode (negative) and long is the anode. If you hook them up backward they will not work.

You also want them in parallel. Each led will drop 0.7v across it in series. If you wire them in series they will work as long as there only a couple. In parallel you always maintain the correct voltage drop to get them to operate. All depends on the voltage spec of the diode you bought.
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Old 09-25-2014, 02:58 AM   #1088
 
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Originally Posted by VI009DZ View Post
When wiring the led, the short wire is the cathode (negative) and long is the anode. If you hook them up backward they will not work.

You also want them in parallel. Each led will drop 0.7v across it in series. If you wire them in series they will work as long as there only a couple. In parallel you always maintain the correct voltage drop to get them to operate. All depends on the voltage spec of the diode you bought.
Thanks for that. Very correct. This is what I meant when I said above I was being taught electronics 101 on another forum. I decided to wire them parallel as you suggest after this conversation:

Quote:
Originally Posted by norman lovie
B2 you do need to do a wee bit of no's
Summary = fit only one resistor in the common feed before you split to parallel - use a 2watt power resistor - and better to use say 0 to 500ohm variable resistor pot

2 = size of resistor needed will be less - the more bulbs you wire up ( if you want to keep the same brightness )

3 = what is the voltage drop for the LED's you have ? -( check on packet - think you said 3 volts ?)

4 = what is the recommended current for your LED's ? - milliamps! - example - 30 millamp = 0.03

5= how many lamps are you fitting ?

6=what is the power supply volts ?

(6 minus 3) divided by ( 4 times 5) = how big a resistor you,ll need - - and the value needed will get smaller the more lights you fit - - you can stick with the resistor you have! but the brightness will drop as you fit more bulbs .

however!!!!! - even better - do the sum above - and you have a Resistor range ( size for x 1 LED and the smaller size needed for multiple LED) = get a variable resistor pot that covers this range +/- - hayho you have variable brightness for your dash

Note: - you may have to do another wee sum - what is the power rating of your resistor ? - -- you'll need one that can handle around 2 watt's +/-
Watt's = Supply volts times ( no. LED fitted X milliamps of the LED)

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Quote:
Originally Posted by B202NUT
12v main power source
3v LED
20mA to run LED

5 LED in 1 parallel circuit
2 LED in end circuit

PER YOUR INSTRUCTION THE FIST EQUATION:

12v - 3v = 9v

PER SECOND FORMULA

Each LED requires 20mA

0.02 x 5 LEDs = (X) ohms ÷ 9v = 90 ohm resistor
0.02 × 2 LEDs = (X) ohms ÷9v = 225 ohm resistor

My math seems off..

Thanks for the help!

And the instructor confirming the pupils mathematics

Quote:
Originally Posted by norman lovie
works for me - and a 1 watt resistor will work - but i'd fit say 2 Watt ones - cost diffrence is nothing
have fun
The resistors pictured are 400 ohm 1/4 watt I believe. So now I understand that parallel wiring is best I gotta go back and get smaller resister with more wattage.


Would silicone (clear) affect the base of the LED or shorten it's life in any way?

I am trying to use stock fascia bulb holders and I will need to glue them in. I am wondering if I can use silicone

Thanks..
PS.. I don't mean you no harm. You always gave me a fair shake. Let's kiss and make up.


...

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Old 09-25-2014, 05:31 PM   #1089
 
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5 LEDs installed

Only stock bulb is the one for fasten seat belt. All the LEDs are just behind the reflecting plastic so hopefully they will be nice abd bright.



Used all stock bulb holders. The install is clean, no boggy wires about

Used the solder iron to soften the plastic and before it cooled off I stuck the bulb holder in it and left it until cooled. That made for a snug and tight as molded fit so I don't have to worry about them wiggling free

I need to wire in the ground wires and then I will squirt some silicone up the back to assure the LEDs don't cross.



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Old 09-25-2014, 05:42 PM   #1090
 
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Here is an example of how I made the bulbs.

This one I am using at the cigarette lighter and I didn't want it as bright as the rest of the dash.
.the parallel circuit for the fascia bulbs takes a 90 ohm 2 watt resistor. I added a 1/4 400 ohm resistor at the bulb itself. Hopefully the cigarette light will be softer than the rest of the fascia

Notice how I ran the tip of the LEDs through that tiny home on the bulb holder and was careful to solder but still allow for the lead clip to slide on

They look stock don't they? Brilliant; I know...

I just get better with time...


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Old 09-26-2014, 04:52 AM   #1091
 
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Then I put heat shrink on the clips so they don't short anything. I used the more expensive glue lined heat shrink




And here is the hot side of the 5 LED parallel circuit all set


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Old 09-27-2014, 04:09 AM   #1092
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So quick question, can you even close the top on your vert with that massive ego of yours?
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Old 09-27-2014, 05:13 AM   #1093
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the LED retrofit is actully a pretty cool idea, how does the dimmer work with the LEDs installed, in my experince they tend to be an on/off device, with very little adjust-ability
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Old 09-28-2014, 04:37 AM   #1094
 
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the LED retrofit is actully a pretty cool idea, how does the dimmer work with the LEDs installed, in my experince they tend to be an on/off device, with very little adjust-ability
Not using the dimmer for the LEDs. Gunna run this on it's own circuit and fuse it for safety.

I am deleting all the factory bulbs behind the fascia as they are useless. I am only keeping the one for the seat belt warning since it only flashes all the remaining stock fascia bulbs are going bye bye

Closest best switched feed I see to use is the park lights on the head light switch.

I will double check but I am sure I can get both switch live and ground in that loom

All done and tidied up... Factory fresh







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Old 09-28-2014, 04:37 AM   #1095
 
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Originally Posted by 132417SAAB View Post
So quick question, can you even close the top on your vert with that massive ego of yours?
Numbers, jealousy is a female trait

Its actually called confidence in self; you should try it.... It eliminates the need for e-assurance anD pacifying....

2 pats on my own back and I move on to the next project.
I share so the next guy wanting to take a dive can see the waters aren't that deep

And you don't have to lighten your wallet to get things done. Usually you just need to roll up your sleeves and turn on the light bulb..


Cheers

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Old 09-28-2014, 05:12 AM   #1096
 
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Oh yeah; I am back live on SC...

Thanks Joe if you told Daniel I am not such a bad guy. Pass him my apologies for our lil tiff


Cheers kiddos time

As my man ledster on UKS would say

"Sun is out, Saab to clean; have a good day gentlemen."
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Old 09-29-2014, 10:24 AM   #1097
 
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So as I am ADD positive I got bored doing wood and the LED loom is done, I decided to tackle the wind screen.

Never owned a vert before but immediately I found the lower portion of the wind deflector cumbersome and foolish. I don't know why you have to eliminate the entire back seat to reduce wind.

Newer cars like merc and Bmw use very tiny wind screen between the head rest in the rear seat; Porsche as well fort hat matter.

plus I had no answer for my daughter that wants to know why she can't ride in the back when the screen is up.

So lets fix it so she can sit in the back when the wind screen the wind screen is in use

So I started by tearing the lower section off


And putting it where it belongs




Now a few beers and beard strokes as I fit the remaining section as a stand alone unit...

It will mount somehow at each seat belt

Stay tuned!

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Old 09-29-2014, 04:28 PM   #1098
 
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After 3 coats of shellac and 2 coats of varnish I have now filled in all the wood pores. 2 more coats of varnish and everything should be level and then another three Or 4 coats.

The last few coats you want to use a high quality natural bristle brush and thin the varnish with spirits.

This will get sanded with 600 and from there up to 2000...

Downhill from here





On second thought, gonna whip out the air brush to finish up...

So far so swell... I don't think I could have paid for better... With the LED set up this should bring the car up about 10 years...

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Old 09-30-2014, 02:54 AM   #1099
 
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testing rhe watets

Figured I test everything before install so no surprises. In the process I have rethought the set up and going at it one more again.

First I jumped 2 9v batteries





. Green is horrible compared too white


In this picture there is a white LED next to the green one. The green light is so weak you can't see the white LED bulb




But other way around you can see the green bulb from the illumination from the white

So I go back and get all white bulbs. This should drastically change the dull C900 dash.

Disco quality lighting

I am redoing the harness with much thinner gauge wire and all solder, not clips. Also gunna run all interior fascia and extra auxiliary lights to bits own battery in the boot controlled by a switch. My logic is smaller 12v battery, longer living LEDs.



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Old 09-30-2014, 03:07 AM   #1100
 
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Since I am redoing the harness I will show step by step;

Smaller battery so I can use more of it's power and reduce the what on the LEDs

I was told to keep the diode and LED legs long to keep heat off the LED itself.

So do as your told





So we go back to the cheap, good for nothing, cause I should spend more money just because; That I am sure you wish you had in your hood, electronics surplus store...

Its so useless they should just burn it down.... (Fuckin idiot)....


Cruising the isles of said store I ran across this. When I am all done and bored I will find a reason to buy it and put it on my car... Lol

This place is a geeks heaven!!!!!!!! If you live electronics you could build a small city municipality out of this store



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