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Old 02-11-2013, 01:32 PM   #21
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And the sunglasses holder. I had the SAAB emblem laying around so I popped it on. The veneer is not glued down as I am still finishing it.

Almost looks like it came as such from the dealer


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Old 02-11-2013, 02:01 PM   #22
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Well I have come to find out that cast iron welding is not such a popular practice.

after sand blasting, i found My exhaust manifold, exhaust flange, and turbo exhaust flange all have minor cracks that will eventually get larger.

I found 2 guys (one local) so I took the work to the local guy. It's a 50/50 shot. The cost is bareable IF he can get THe weld to hold

Here ard the bits:

Exhaust mani crack



Turbo flange crack:



Once properly welded I will use 1200 degree grille paint on the exhaust manifold and exhaust flange.

I wish I could leave them as they are sand blasted but the rust is imminent.

Stay tuned...

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Old 02-11-2013, 02:59 PM   #23
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Seats

Here is an idea of what I removed from the vert. All were as bad or worse.




I pulled front and rear seats from a 4 door 9000.

The front goes without saying are a direct fit.

The rear, well that was a bit more challenging; however with the help of a rebuttable seamster and my design idea the 9000 rear seat backs and bottoms were modified and stitched to fit a 900 vert.

Since the 9000 seat seats are larger I had to delete the mid section (I call it the hump) between the original seats.

900 vert seats are not even a full seat for each person, it's actually a fraction of THe whole seat and both rear passengers share what I call the hump on the rear seat bench. That's what kinda separates both rear passengers.

Same thing applies for the rear back rest.

And the pointed corners of the bench I didn't like either.

After stripping the old nasty, and nip tucking I got 2 full rear passenger seats and deleted both humps.

Now the rear passenger doesn't sink in but sits upright! This was a definite upgrade and I like the lighter shade of grey (not sure the color), oppose to the dove grey that is original.

If you own a vert, have a look at your back seat bottom, notice my seat doesn't have the hump. I now have two actual but rests.

The foam is far more thicker in the 9000 and the seats are much bigger. By eliminating the hump and stitching the 9000 seat bottoms together, it's a perfect fit.

I also modified the wood bench frame 900 verts have pointed bench corners. Mines are now rounded. I also changed the springs. The ones in the vert were rusted and had no bounce.

No more hump, the seat pipping was worked into the project to separate the seats




Front view of stitch work



Rounded corners



I eliminated the hog ties and used heavy duty commercial grade zip ties to mount the skins.

Got a near factory finish with almost ZERO creases




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Old 02-11-2013, 03:18 PM   #24
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Thumbs down

The rear back rest was complete hell and back!

I still can't believe we got it done.

Keeping it short I eliminated the hump and brought pipping down the center, which lines up pretty good with the bottom.

The rear back rest is 2 tone, as we kept the rear most part of the original back rest covering and only changed the face portion for lack of a better term. We also had to get creative to make up for a gap at the top.

I was amazed at the quality of the leather. after cleaning they look practically new. I paid $30 for all the skins and $90 for stitching. It was hell getting them to fit and I did that job myself.

Sorry for the plastic but I gotta keep em clean



Since we only used the front sections of the seat we ha a gap at the top due to the shoulder curves.

We filled it with scrap leather from trimmings and it came out quite nice



Her you get a glimpse of the original and modified leathers matted together. Once fitted you cannot see the dove grey. Only a bit at the top but if one didn't know they might think it came original





Under the light, the 9000 seat color is a better blend with the metallic paint: it just happened this way


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Old 02-12-2013, 06:46 PM   #25
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Fired up the tablet tonight to see what it looks like. This is summing up to be a very practical mod. Should definitely bring more attention to the ergonomics of the classic SAAB center console.

I just saw a Cadillac commercial that now offer cars with tablets. Lol... I don't need to finance $70,000.00 to share the experience..




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Old 02-13-2013, 09:24 PM   #26
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regarding those cracks just ask the welder how he cast iron welds.

they really need to
- stop drill the cracks and then cut a groove along the cracks (cut the cracks out)
- clean the rust etc off the metal
- heat the whole piece up to red hot, allow it to lose it's redness then weld as it loses it's red glow (still really hot)
- as soon as the weld is complete bury the piece in a container of pre heated sand - this allows the cast iron to cool slowly and helps reduce the risk of heat stress cracking

this is what my local engineer has said he does - I ask him random questions like this out of interest all the time lol



Another good option is to get them to braze it? A good braze can withstand about 800celsius - much hotter than your manifold will ever get, and braze often creates a flexible joint


LOL based on this video I jut watched I'd say my engineer knows his stuff, :P maybe he watched this too


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Old 02-14-2013, 06:06 AM   #27
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What's up Ed,

They were brass braised if I am not mistaken. He explained it was the better option for success.

Picking up the bits today...i live in a metropolis and there are only 2 guys in the whole city the would even agree to look at the bits.

It cost my $100 U$ for the repairs but I sleep better knowing its done.

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Old 02-14-2013, 01:06 PM   #28
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Haha sorry I guess I didn't realize how old the post was.

Good brazing is a good option! Glad you got it all sorted!
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Old 02-15-2013, 04:44 AM   #29
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may be cheaper just to get a new exhaust manifold,, i usally see them sell for 50$ in good working shape
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Old 02-15-2013, 05:30 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike d View Post
may be cheaper just to get a new exhaust manifold,, i usally see them sell for 50$ in good working shape
That would have been easier yes but not practical. Seeing there are no classic turbos in the yards and buying a manifold plus shipping would be about $70 and I still have 3 other bits with cracks, brazing was most practical and convenient. Plus I had already invested money into the bead blasting, it just made sense. The crack was not so evident with the surface rust, so a used manifold would have had to be blasted and inspected as well.

I think this route proved to be the better option. I would not have bought a manifold and bolted it. It still would have to Stan up to scrutiny and inspection...

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Old 02-17-2013, 04:02 AM   #31
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Picked up my brass braised bits this weekend

Shouldn't crack for a long time to come



Exhaust manifold was also braised in a few place and painted with 1200 degree BBQ grille paint. It doesn't chip ( I bang it with a spanner a few times) and hopefully it won't fade.

Manifold and turbo bolted as a unit waiting for the head. And a cheeky peak at my trans and oil coolers all cleaned up and ready to go back on.

Need to rebuild the hoses. I have a hose manufacturer in town. Building hoses is far cheaper than buying them.


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Old 02-17-2013, 04:16 AM   #32
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T5 head back in action

In the famous words of "The Godfather",

"Just when I thought I was out, they pull me back in!"

I just couldn't have 2 inoperable SAAB's in the yard so I didn't breakdown my 2.1. I'm suppose to get an 89 S for free here soon so I will wait for that to freshen up my 2.1 ( drives daily but needs a box).

So I started the work on the 234 Motronic head ( well not me but the welder).

I did not want to modify the TC as many suggest. I preferred modifying the head.

Here are the 2 major gaps filled. My welder is very good.



Inside view




Outside view



Fresh gasket

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Old 02-17-2013, 04:18 AM   #33
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I am almost ready to bolt the head. Just need to mod brackets for

AC
Power steering pump
Passenger side motor mount

Before we can measure for the mods, the head needs to be skimmed true..

Cheers,
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Old 02-17-2013, 04:31 AM   #34
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Here I have the front axles getting ready for new boots.

All my hoses are cleaned and boxed in the photo as well.

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Old 02-20-2013, 12:50 PM   #35
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Being anal, i scared myself thinking I might have a compression ratio issue. My machine guy set me sttraight and moving right along.

head is bolted up. Will add piccy's later...

I gave the head a sprits of the same paint I used on the block....
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Old 02-20-2013, 05:41 PM   #36
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like mike D said, I would have gone for another manifold as well. There is zilch demand for them, and they are usually tossed. Had I owned a spare, I would have gladly given it away. I'm sure others would as well.
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Old 02-20-2013, 06:56 PM   #37
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Cylinder head assembled.

I took the head to the machine shop for a skim of the weld. Machinist liked the weld job so much he took the guys number.

You can't even see the seam where he added aluminum. A-1 Class welding.







I didn't use any power tools or wire brushes on the port tunnels. BP Blaster is a beast!

PB Blaster and a normal house household toothbrush















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Old 02-20-2013, 07:03 PM   #38
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like mike D said, I would have gone for another manifold as well. There is zilch demand for them, and they are usually tossed. Had I owned a spare, I would have gladly given it away. I'm sure others would as well.

I see Guys in Europe rebuilding parts we toss and buy new ( or for the sake of this conversation, go to the junkyard; or trade for free), without a bat of an eye. Why, because things we take for granite, thay cannot get. You can't make such a broad suggestion until you consider where I am.

You boys in the northeast are spoiled; broken classic 900's are not such common place in my next of the woods. The last time i saw a turbo in our yard was 3 years ago.

Shipping used cast iron is not cost effective either. Consider my carbon footprint that much lighter. One less heap of junk in a landfill.

The brass repair is like a new manifold, and as mentioned i had 2 other bits that needed welding so cost wise the weld cost was less than one part plus frieght; no worries.

I checked ebay for a turbo manifold and the least cost is about $80. All my brass braising was $90 plus tax.. All local, no shipping..

Plus my good deed of supporting the local small business guy! I don't know about you but I love pulling into a commercial garage port and seeing all the small business guys tha rent small space to conduct their craft. That's priceless in my opinion. If I can funnel a few bills there direction for a weld job as superb as you see aboveyou see above, i cant see anyone arguing with that.

Win win

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Old 02-21-2013, 11:55 AM   #39
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I found a 1995 SAAB 900 Turbo V6 ECU.

Can I use it to run T5?

thanks...
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:57 AM   #40
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Quote:
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I found a 1995 SAAB 900 Turbo V6 ECU.

Can I use it to run T5?

thanks...
Nope thats motronic. They didn't make a turbo v6 that year.
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