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Old 05-30-2011, 07:13 PM   #61
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do the FACEDROP.
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Old 05-30-2011, 07:15 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tetnisshot View Post
Car looks good Palmer, I've found it's almost impossible to part ways with these cars! A short seperation usually helps(as you know). Glad your back at it!

Front end sex

tetnis


Thanks! I'm glad to be back at it as well.

Put about 80 miles on it today, and it's running great. I think it will run better when I burn through this old tank of gas from storage. A place just up the road from me has 93, so that's the next tank, along with some Techron.
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Old 05-31-2011, 04:43 AM   #63
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... if you so much as lay a finger on Natalie 2, so help me God.

It probably would look really sick, but I love being able to look at my old car as it should have been one day.
^ You know you got problems when you start naming other peoples Saab's

I say go for it Ethan! Your 86' was bad ass - and I think you should have never tore it apart as you did. The only RIGHT thing left to do is let it live on in your newer fancier red clone SPG.


Palmer - those wheels + that grill on that car will look bad ass. What needs to be "cut" to fit that grill?
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Old 05-31-2011, 06:28 AM   #64
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It's kinda odd. The GrillE is off an 83, and the headlight surrounds are the originals.

The pegs on the headlight surrounds are too large to fit in the holes on either side of the grillE, so I'll have to file them down or something. I have another, even earlier grillE, and it fits with the surrounds just fine.

I do have other surrounds I could check too, I'll be doing that tonight. If I change, I'll have to cut the inner portion to clear the intercooler, haha.
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Old 06-05-2011, 05:31 PM   #65
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Nice work Palmer-san. I have started a massive c900 initiative on my car as well, I basically let a lot of non essential stuff slide for 2 years and it's time to take care of it.

You should plastidip the super aeros.
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Korean wheels, man. Like catnip for the ladies.
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Old 06-06-2011, 11:18 AM   #66
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Nice work Palmer-san. I have started a massive c900 initiative on my car as well, I basically let a lot of non essential stuff slide for 2 years and it's time to take care of it.

You should plastidip the super aeros.
Doing the same with my SPG.
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Old 06-06-2011, 02:38 PM   #67
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I'm finally back on the internet after a busy weekend at work, thank you sniggel.
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can be prone to failure due to increased localized stresses in the hole penetrations
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Old 06-06-2011, 03:49 PM   #68
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Haha.

Anyway, nabbed a new looking 3.0 FPR off a junkyard car last weekend, I should be able to swap the 9000 rail off.

I might just plasti-dip the wheels. Actually, that would be pretty rad, then I would have to do minimal prep.

Also, my former co-worker does their social media work, so I might have a hookup.
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Old 06-06-2011, 08:29 PM   #69
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I like how your 900 has turned out. Looks awesome.
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Old 06-07-2011, 02:39 AM   #70
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This c900 remains the winner of anyone who thinks they are cloning or taking style cues.
Palmer's 86' = big tits. ( . Y . )
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Old 06-07-2011, 03:58 AM   #71
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Really glad you decided not to sell this car. It's a gem.
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Old 06-07-2011, 06:29 AM   #72
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Thanks guys.


I just signed up for a speed run in August with it. Should be some good motivation to get er' all done.
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Old 06-07-2011, 06:57 AM   #73
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Yesterday, 05:13 PM snigel laddare This message has been deleted by Palmer. Reason: Because I can.
I'm not going to stoop to your level, only say that you know you're wrong, whether you're willing to admit it or not.
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Old 06-07-2011, 07:17 AM   #74
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LOL. Snigel, you were saying grounding would be a good performance upgrade on an otherwise healthy SAAB. That is different from making a repair on a car with old, corroded wiring, which of course would be a good thing to do.
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Old 06-07-2011, 08:13 AM   #75
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LOL. Snigel, you were saying grounding would be a good performance upgrade on an otherwise healthy SAAB. That is different from making a repair on a car with old, corroded wiring, which of course would be a good thing to do.
I've said this, that, and more, only to have it subsequently proven out as correct. Tell me though, why, do you suppose, the batt/alt/starter lead cable corrodes in the first place?

Answer: Poor/faulty grounding.
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Old 06-07-2011, 08:14 AM   #76
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Get your pompous, blowhard ass out of my thread.

I could give a fuck what you think you know about grounding or any of that shit. Yes, bad grounding is responsible for CORROSION.

No, not road salt, and a cut in the casing, or any of the other 500 things that cause corrosion that you come in contact with on a daily basis.

Get. Out.
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Old 06-07-2011, 08:56 AM   #77
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There has to be an adequate threshold for having the various parts of a car grounded. Where does it stop? Do we need to 6/0awg wire under the hood? Is that going to make a car even fast than one with only 4/0awg wire stung all over the damn place?

What a clown.
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Old 06-07-2011, 09:18 AM   #78
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Get your pompous, blowhard ass out of my thread.
Pot---Kettle.

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I could give a fuck what you think you know about grounding or any of that shit. Yes, bad grounding is responsible for CORROSION.

No, not road salt, and a cut in the casing, or any of the other 500 things that cause corrosion that you come in contact with on a daily basis.
Don't go getting your knickers in a bunch (it's...uncomfortable). Now stop being such a bitch (it's unflattering), afterall, it's not my fault that I am correct and your are wrong, now is it?

Quote:
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Get. Out.
But, yeah, I'll get outta "your" thread (don't want you blowing a gasket and throwing yourself into a tizzy) and will leave it with one parting comment...Nice Classic.



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Last edited by Trollhättan Bil; 06-07-2011 at 09:52 AM.
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Old 06-07-2011, 11:39 AM   #79
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Pot---Kettle.



Don't go getting your knickers in a bunch (it's...uncomfortable). Now stop being such a bitch (it's unflattering), afterall, it's not my fault that I am correct and your are wrong, now is it?

Initially I ignored you because I thought you had to be joking, but since it seems you genuinely believe you are correct, I have to tell you that you're an idiot.

Corrosion (in metals) occurs as a chemical reaction that has nothing to do with how well the metal is grounded. In it's most basic form it is caused by a reaction between the metal and oxygen in the air exchanging electrons and creating weak oxides that "flake" off the top and expose the next layer down to the same environment.

Several factors can speed up the process, such as bringing metals on opposite ends of the galvanic series together, electric current, sulfides, and salts.

The only way to slow corrosion down is to prevent contact between the metal and anything that's corrosive (paint it) or attach a sacrificial anode to it (like zinc) and let that corrode away in the air first.
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Old 06-07-2011, 12:21 PM   #80
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blod pressure.
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c900, electrical, got front mount?, he's all talk, ima plastidip my windows, junkyard car pimpin, not an spg, snigel corrosion, sweaty italian advice, time attack wheels, van hagar

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