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Old 02-16-2006, 12:37 PM   #1
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Headgasket retorque

Hey guys I was wondering if anyone could help me out with instructions to retorque the head gasket.
Btw, this summer I want to do a new headgasket so maybe sometime when the weather is better I would take a road trip somewhere and some of you guys could help me out.
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Old 02-16-2006, 01:06 PM   #2
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This should help. Start at 1 and only one at a time.
http://www.genuinesaab.com/psi/files/headretorque.htm

For more info:
http://www.genuinesaab.com/psi/
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Old 02-16-2006, 01:06 PM   #3
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There's a tutorial on this somewhere. It's really easy. Someone sent me the PDF, but obviously you do it once and really never need to do it again. I will tell you that it's not THAT difficult and takes like 30-40 minutes. Hardest part is making the new gasket stick on the valve cover so you can put the valve cover back on.
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Old 02-16-2006, 02:28 PM   #4
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Thanks guys.
So you've already done it mr. unkept?
Do I need to buy a new gasket for the valve cover then?
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Old 02-16-2006, 09:25 PM   #5
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I'm not convinced you'd need to replace the valve cover gasket...but they're only $10-20, and they dry out/flatten out and start leaking eventually, so I'd advise replacing it.
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Old 02-17-2006, 05:08 AM   #6
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It's not always absolutely necessary, but considering they're only like 12 bucks from eeuroparts, it can't hurt. The re-torque is not hard. I just did it my first time about a month ago - should be the last time, too.
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Old 08-16-2006, 08:49 PM   #7
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Always replace gaskets if your doing this. Ive taken the head off my car 3 times now and I can whip the thing off in just under 2 hours without air tools. If you want to know some tricks to make it EZ, let me know. The trick for remembering the re-torque method is start in the middle top to bottom then move in a circle (or box) clockwise starting on the top right. Okay a little more complicated to remember, but you get my point its how I remember it!
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Old 04-02-2007, 08:55 PM   #8
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bluaero,use a haynesor saab shop man. 4 the basic stuff torque bolt seq. etc.main points for a sucessful job 1. use new head bolts as they are torque to yield[1 time use only] torque in order 3 stage & use a torque 2 yield guage 4 the last 90 degree pull. lube bolts w/ moly coat grease under the washer & on the bolt threads. use a nut splitter on the exh. manifold nuts - so you don't break studs.
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Old 04-02-2007, 09:06 PM   #9
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That is what has always confused me, they are supposed to be one time stretch bolts, but they recommend a re-torque after doing a new head-gasket. How can it be a one time stretch bolt and it be recommended to retorque after you have warmed the engine up at least once??? That makes it a two time stretch bolt???

My engine builders book said when replacing head gasket to warm engine up to operating temp, let completely cool and then retorque head bolts. Good for life.... That is twice in my book, so do you do it once and let it go with new bolts or do you do it twice and hope they stretch correctly twice....

John
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Old 04-03-2007, 04:10 PM   #10
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jzw/bluaero,yeh i know what you mean-lots of messed info on h/g's out there. early cars [2.0ltr.] used the cold/hot torque. later cars-don't do it.read my previous posts-under burt estep- on that other saab site-you will see what i mean. clean out the threaded bolt holes[in block] no crud so that you get a good pull
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Old 01-13-2008, 04:21 PM   #11
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the sad part is i remember the torque sequence......
60 nm, 80 Nm, 90 degree turn... i do this shit alot
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Old 01-14-2009, 04:28 PM   #12
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ypu you do Jp !!!! between home and when we can get your backside to show up at the shop ! lol !!!
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Old 01-14-2009, 05:11 PM   #13
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Just get arp studs and dont worry about it.
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Old 01-18-2009, 09:22 AM   #14
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ohh yea, where do we buy them i definatly need a set
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Old 01-18-2009, 11:10 AM   #15
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Old 07-11-2017, 06:57 PM   #16
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you guys always provide helpful advice. thanks
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