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Old 12-29-2013, 09:30 PM   #1
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Zero Compression on Cyl 1=Rebuild or Used Longblock?

My compression results came back today as this:

Cyl 1=0
Cyl 2=100
Cyl 3=150
Cyl 4=180

It almost looks like the perfect numbers for a head gasket job, but, the big 0 is very puzzling to me. Well, the rest of the numbers aside from the 180 are also on the low side.

Symptoms seen and discovered:

1) 2 of the DIC's coils are shot.

2) Lots of oil in the cylinders when looking down through the spark plug holes.

3) Was going to do the ole fashion pour some oil into both Cyl 1 and 2, but there's so much oil in the cylinders it seems redundant to put anymore in there?

4) All spark plugs check out new and no issues around the plugs.

5) Prior to the compression testing, since the car has been sitting a bit, when it was running, it smoked out the filler cap (steady, not puffs). Then it started smoking hard out the exhaust, but I don't recall seeing any smoke coming out the filler cap area once smoke started flowing out the exhaust. It flows similar to how you see blown turbos looking, has a oil/dirty type smell to it and not sweet so it's definitely just oil being pushed right through the turbo and out the exhaust.

6) Since the car has been sitting around, I am not certain just how strong the battery was for the compression testing. The battery isn't very low, but it's definitely not at full charge or would I say even very high.

Questions:

1) Would it be helpful to drain out the oil and/or drop the oil pan, then re-do the compression testing?

2) Any specific things that should be done to potentially make the compression test more accurate?

3) From what the mechanic says, he thinks it is in the head (stuck valve?), that the oil has not been allowed to escape where it needs to be escaping.

4) Would torquing the head bolts have any effect or anything on the cheap to try out before leaping into bigger $$$$ stuff like see 5)?

5) I know it's difficult to diagnose things over the net, but would it make best sense to drop in a used engine or to pull the head and go from there? First I want to see if I can get some ideas around here regarding the compression testing and possible answers of the issue at hand here, but it seems to me that if I were to have the head pulled, that's going to be an expense in itself...then again, a block rebuild if it needs piston/rings/etc. would further lead to more expense and so on. But a used engine is something that's a crapshoot where it could go for who knows how long, a few weeks, 20 years, etc.

Thanks for the input and things I should investigate.
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Old 12-30-2013, 04:11 AM   #2
 
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Pull the head and visually check the cylinder bore.

If this was a B204 or B234, I'd agree with the idea that it might be a head gasket...but this is a B235, so you can't rule out a cracked piston.

You might be able to look into the cylinder by using a borescope through the plug hole, but it would need to be a good scope.
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Old 12-30-2013, 05:15 AM   #3
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Your description forgot the little detail of an oil leak and running the engine dry
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Old 12-30-2013, 06:00 AM   #4
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Compression that low across all cylinders is pretty not-good.
It's not likely that you blew out every space in the gasket.
It's a safe assumption that you cracked #1, but if you really drove it with no oil, you likely did a lot of damage.

I'd be looking for a new block.
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Old 12-30-2013, 07:42 AM   #5
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When car was driving, it ran low on oil...oil light came on I pulled off the road and dipstick was dry, with oil having squirted through the oil filler (like a consistent steaming and not a puff puff or puff puff puff type of deal). I towed the car home, put oil into the car, cranked the car, and oil still came steadily through the oil filler but no oil light. I then rev'd the engine, and out shot LOTS of smoke from the exhaust Smell of smoke=oil/burn. What was interesting at this point is the smoking from the oil filler was no longer existing and it was only going out the exhaust. No noises to be heard, but that's where I completely stopped doing anything with the car.

I assumed it to be the turbo, but am suspecting it to be any number of things posted above, and including the turbo as part of it. My only hope at this point is that if it is a piston, or two, it did not score the walls too badly. The engine was rebuilt all OEM only 15K miles ago which would be a terrible shame if something fatal internally happened that would require a used block, dealing with the heads, even the turbo, etc. etc. etc.
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Old 12-30-2013, 09:35 AM   #6
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It's at least a cracked piston.
I've been through it 2x, now.

If the oil light is on, it means oil pressure is below 4psi, I think.
you may have gotten lucky, but I doubt it. Pull the oil pan, and remove a rod cap. you'll see right away if the engine was starved for oil.

or...pull the valve cover, and pull a cam cap or two. these are both on the far end of the oiling system, and are usually the first to see damage/bluing.
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Old 12-30-2013, 09:40 AM   #7
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Pull the oil pan and look at #3 man and rod bearings, see how they look. You'll also know when you pull the pan and there is significant amount of metal in the pan.
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Old 12-30-2013, 01:06 PM   #8
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the best case here is a burnt up valve,,, But i would probably suspect a piston to be the culprit. as a quick check, try putting some oil down cyl 1, then rechecking compression, See how much better the numbers get (a drastic jump implies a failed sealing surface around the piston)
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Old 12-31-2013, 12:01 AM   #9
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Would it be best to do a 100K miles used engine replacement or find a way to rebuild. Obviously the used engine is dirt cheap, the rebuild very expensive...but...dirt cheap is never cheap in Saabland)
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Old 01-01-2014, 08:24 AM   #10
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i would tear your current motor apart before you do anything, and see how bad the damage is, If there is crank/cyl wall damage then i would look into a new motor, if not then a rebuild
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Old 01-03-2014, 12:18 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike d View Post
i would tear your current motor apart before you do anything, and see how bad the damage is, If there is crank/cyl wall damage then i would look into a new motor, if not then a rebuild
How long does it take to get the head off? I'm having a guy do this, but he's saying it's a 5 hour job. I almost want to go watch him do it and time him because I've seen people say it's about 2 hours. Is it anywhere close to being 5 hours to get only the head off the short block?

Thanks!
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Old 01-03-2014, 05:46 AM   #12
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removing the head by an experience tech should not take longer than 3 hours, i can get them off in less than 2 if i hustle..

First timers will take a bit longer, i think my first time on a 9000 (a little bit harder of a job) took me 5 hours.
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