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Old 10-21-2013, 09:27 AM   #1
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head prepping questions

I finally got around to pulling the head off my 9-5 2.3, symptoms were i had coolant seeping out from the driverside head gasket puddling up on top of the transmission. I tried the head bolt retorque and the leaking continued.

I removed the intake and exhaust manifolds from the head, i also removed the cap that was held on by 2 bolts just to the right of the exhaust cam.

What do i need to do to prep it for the machine shop? Also what exactly shoud i have the machine shop do to it other than making sure its flat?

Do i need to remove the valves? guide pins?

I will be using some razor blades and steel wool to gently clean the block.

Im also going to remove the TB from the intake and give the intake a good thorough cleaning, any tips on what to use on it? carb cleaner?

thanks

Last edited by dasaabguy; 10-21-2013 at 01:10 PM.
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Old 10-21-2013, 09:50 AM   #2
 
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Take a razor blade and CAREFULLY remove any traces of gaskets. The shop guys will appreciate the gesture. Don't put in any nicks or gouges. Go easy with the steel wool on any of the gasket-mating faces.

Beyond that, I'd leave everything else on the head. You're going to want a valve job with new seals (they're included in the HG kit, so buy them ahead of time and send them to the shop with the head.)

Keep the cam sprockets at home. They will pull the cams, lifters, seals and valves and skim the head to ensure it's flat. If they're doing the valve job, they'll lap in the valves, wash the head and valves in a hot tank, then reassemble everything. (They might do the lapping last.)
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Old 10-21-2013, 04:17 PM   #3
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Take note of the intake and exhaust cams (which is which). I had a very trusted shop make a mistake and install them backwards. That was super hard to diagnose "no start" condition. Just a silly mistake that anybody could make really. I believe the exhaust cam has a notch in the end that can drive a vacuum pump throughout that hole in the drivers side you mentioned.
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Old 10-28-2013, 02:33 PM   #4
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thanks for the responses.

head has been dropped off at the machine shop.....they are gonna check it out and see if it needs to be skimmed and see if its possible to skim it because its been skimmed before.

they will check to see if i need a valve job but my buddy said i shouldnt need one.

TBoy - thanks for noting that, i did mark both the intake and exhaust cams sprockets and i have everything laid out exactly how it came out.
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Old 10-28-2013, 03:01 PM   #5
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There are three little tiny freeze plugs that block off where the oil passages to feed the cam were drilled. One on the timing chain side, two on the distributor side. They are like 3/8" in diameter.

Make sure they pop those out before they hot tank the head and replace with new ones once it's been rinsed.

There will be sludgy goop in there, and could be metal filings if the car ate bearings or had a turbo failure.

I usually ask them to leave the cams out so that when you lower the head down onto the block all the valves are retracted and there's no way that you can smack one and bend it if you don't get it lined up exactly perfect - they are pretty heavy after all....
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Old 10-28-2013, 03:51 PM   #6
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Shop around here want me to pull the cams, lifters, etc.
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Old 10-29-2013, 04:02 PM   #7
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Drew, thanks for that info on the freeze plugs i will be sure to inquire about those.

When i dropped the head off the guy at the machine shop said i should use a spray type sealant, i think he was referring to this

Permatex® Copper Spray-A-Gasket® Hi-Temp Sealant


When sealing it this last time we used Loctite 518.



what are you guys using?
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Old 10-29-2013, 05:11 PM   #8
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I use 518, thin film around all the coolant passages and the oil passages on both the block, and on top of the head gasket before you set the head on.

You have to let it cure for 24 hours after you torque the head down though before you run it.
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