01 9-5 temperature sensor issue? - The Saab Link Forums

Go Back   The Saab Link Forums > Saab 9-5 '98-'09 Forum > General 9-5 Posts and Information

General 9-5 Posts and Information Please post general topics pertaining to the 9-5.

SaabLink.net is the premier Saab Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 04-04-2013, 09:12 AM  
TSLMember
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Vermont
Posts: 70
01 9-5 temperature sensor issue?

Hi,
I have a 9-5 with a 2.3T. Was smashed in front from hitting a deer. I got the car all back together with used parts. Now when I start it the engine begins skipping and the check engine light flashes. It wants to stall. After a little research I decided to replace the spark plugs, as I have no idea how long they have been in the car and it has been sitting at least 6 months since this repair. Sometimes it will run smooth for a minute or so then start misfiring even after the plug swap. My scan tool shows no codes but when I watch the coolant temperature while the car is running the dash gauge reads steady as it is warming up , but the scan tool shows the temp bouncing all around from -45 to over 400 degrees.
When it reads steady it runs fine, when the ECU sees the odd temp it runs bad, and I assume it is like a limp mode but I am not sure.
So my question here, if the temp sensor is bad, how is it that 1 gauge reads good but the ECU sees it differently? Are there 2 sensors? Or am I about to go on a search for wiring issues?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am new to these saab cars, hoping this issue is something kind of normal but with my luck you just never know!
newsaabguy is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 04-04-2013, 09:39 AM  
Elder
 
DrewP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 3,021
There is only one sensor. What scan tool are you using?

Check the ground lugs on the driver's side of the intake manifold, there are three of them, make sure they're tight in case they got loosened up during the repair.

Could also try just unplugging the sensor and see if it smooths out to isolate it.
__________________
(Former) Saab Tech / Competition Prep

Quote:
You still don't understand. This is like trying to explain calculus to a clam.
DrewP is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Quick reply to this message
Old 04-04-2013, 09:50 AM  
Avid TSL User
 
Easily's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 245
i believe if it was in limp mode it would say check gearbox on the dash. a temp sensor would not cause irratic idle issues, i would x2 check grounds coming off the intake manifold. what kind of codes are coming up? there is only 1 sensor and its on the driver side head underneath the vaccum pump. (if i remeber correctly t7 cars had one coming off the valve cover)
__________________
Timothy Morath
97 saab 900se
99 9-3
Easily is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Quick reply to this message
 
Old 04-04-2013, 09:51 AM  
TSLMember
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Vermont
Posts: 70
Thank you! I will check grounds and give it a try and let you know how I make out!
newsaabguy is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Quick reply to this message
Old 04-04-2013, 10:29 AM  
TSLMember
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Vermont
Posts: 70
I am using a KAL equip scan tool, it is older. Was thinking it was suitable for this age car but maybe it isn't. It is a OBD II reader. I checked grounds, all seem tight and intact. I unplugged the temp sensor(on driver side) and the dash gauge didn't move at all but the scan tool is still showing numbers all over. The air temp here is around 45 degrees. The scan tool shows me the ambient temp and it is close so I believe it to be working. The coolant temp is crazy. With the car off and key on it reads a below zero number like -45. But soon as you start the engie it reads like 119F for a few seconds and it runs great, then it starts showing like 442F and bounces all over the place and soon as that happens it starts running terrible and the MIL light flashes. It isn't driveable like this and I would assume the flashing light is telling you not to anyway. The readout in the car doesn't flash any codes except for a signal lite I need a bulb for and an anti theft service. I was thinking the antitheft was due to a weak battery in the siren but could that be causing the car to do this? Still wouldn't explain the wierd temp reading on my scanner but maybe I need to try a newer scanner and see if that proves or disproves the accuracy of my scanner. Certainly appreciate the help! I will post more as I continue! Thank you
newsaabguy is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Quick reply to this message
Old 04-04-2013, 10:58 AM  
TSLMember
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Vermont
Posts: 70
FYI- my brother works at a shop locally, he is stopping over tomorrow to look at the car with me. We will verify the temp readings. His scan tool is a lot newer than mine.
Also, on the anti-theft note on the readout screen, I do not have a radio in the car. It didn't have one when I got the car.( I bought it smashed from deer hit).
The only code I have is for the coolant sensor that I unplugged to rule it out. Yet with that unplugged the temp was still going crazy. But the temp gauge never moved.
I will post tomorrow after my better scan tool is used!
newsaabguy is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Quick reply to this message
Old 04-04-2013, 11:10 AM  
Elder
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Annapolis, MD
Posts: 2,522
Send a message via ICQ to g96nt Send a message via AIM to g96nt Send a message via MSN to g96nt Send a message via Yahoo to g96nt
I'd check the plug for the coolant temp sensor. make sure it's not corroded or otherwise "gross". I suppose it's possible that the sensor is fine but there's a short. did the car sit with an exposed engine wiring harness? any possibility that a mouse made it's way into the engine bay?

New OE coolant temp sensors are $11. Get one, toss it in, and be sure.
Hell, I have one I'd send to you for free if you paid the shipping.
__________________
Craig R.
2008 9-5 Aero-1995 900T 'vert
g96nt is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Quick reply to this message
Old 04-04-2013, 09:47 PM  
TSLMember
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Vermont
Posts: 70
I am not sure the temp sensor is a problem. My gauge works good but when it is unplugged my scan tool is still showing a temp. How is that possible? The dash gauge stopped working and it flagged a code for the sensor when I unhooked it. The scan tool and the dash gauge show two very different temps. Makes no sense to me.Something I totally overlooked is the air filter, no clue if there is a reason the engine cant get air. I will check that in the morning. Just to rule it out. Thanks to all for your help!
newsaabguy is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Quick reply to this message
Old 04-04-2013, 09:48 PM  
TSLMember
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Vermont
Posts: 70
wiring and plug for sensor look great. Clean and undamaged.
newsaabguy is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Quick reply to this message
Old 04-05-2013, 09:33 AM  
TSLMember
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Vermont
Posts: 70
OK so day two! My brother came over with a much more professional scanner. So the engine temp holds steady in dash and on scanner. Must be my scanner goes crazy when the car starts running funny. Maybe due to voltage fluctuation or something? Anyhow, prior to his arrival I tried something else. I pulled the MAF off the filter side of the tube so I could run direct air just to see if something was blocking air filter and choking out the engine. First try it ran great for about 3 minutes. I shut it off and restarted and back to same issue. after a few tried still same result. Running poorly after a 10-20 second period. The only code coming up is PO1300, a cylinder misfire code. I did install new NGK plugs gapped perfectly to be sure that was good. Did nothing for it. And it did have same NGKs in it already. so now I question a couple of things. The car has been sitting for at least 6 months. Any chance I could have crappy fuel? If these cars are so sensitive maybe poor burning fuel could give me these issues? Or could my CPS be working weird? Or even the DI cassette itself?? When I got the car it ran strange but I figured it was due to the fact the intercooler was busted open, but maybe the guy was running it like that? Hard to believe you could do it but who knows. He said it ran good but lets face it, he had a smashed car and needed cash! How could I test the DI cassette without buying one? I can't change everything just guessing, I'd like to determine the issue if possible.
newsaabguy is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Quick reply to this message
Old 04-05-2013, 09:35 AM  
TSLMember
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Vermont
Posts: 70
Another thought, could a bad injector do it? I'm not getting 1 specific cylinder misfire though. I think po1300 is random misfire?
newsaabguy is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Quick reply to this message
Old 04-05-2013, 11:00 AM  
TSLMember
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Vermont
Posts: 70
I may have found my problem. I did some more research about testing the Di cassette, basically found that you really can't test it. But I decided to pull it off and get a look after finding that 2000-2002 cars had a recall on the DI cassette for overheating the coils and failing. I removed mine, and can see a crack in the plastic cover that has the plug probes built into it. So 8 screws and the cover pops off pretty easily, had to know what was under the cover, moisture or whatever else. So what I find is that there is a resistor or something that is cracked and the resin that holds all the electrics is cracked in a few places, as if it got hot and split. So I think I am safe to assume this DI cassette is compromised enough to get another one. I doubt this car is able to get a freebe from a saab dealer but what the heck I am going to ask, I have a dealer still fixing saab cars about 4 miles from my work. Worth a call, worst they can do it laugh right?!
I will check it out and keep everyone posted!
newsaabguy is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Quick reply to this message
Old 04-05-2013, 07:15 PM  
Elder
 
jssaab's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,929
1300 is a bad DI change it ... Sid not see this till today.
jssaab is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Quick reply to this message
Old 04-05-2013, 08:32 PM  
TSLMember
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Vermont
Posts: 70
From the looks of the cracks in the resin inside the DI I expected it is the problem.
Why does it run good for a few seconds to sometimes a minute or so, then run like crap? Weird how it will do that, I would think it would just run bad any time you start it up. It is so consistently messed up that you couldn't really drive it anyhow. I will be getting a replacement! Thank you!
newsaabguy is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Quick reply to this message
Old 04-05-2013, 10:49 PM  
TSLMember
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Vermont
Posts: 70
Anybody in VT or NY have any leads on where to find a reasonably priced used DI cassette to try? I can get new ones from ebay starting around $110. My part number is 55562588 but it seems that there is another number more popular. I have no clue if this one is even the right part for the car. Maybe a newer version? This one is dated 0607, so June 2007 right?
newsaabguy is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Quick reply to this message
Old 04-06-2013, 05:19 AM  
Avid TSL User
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Brunswick, Ga & Cedar River, Mi
Posts: 131
Do not buy one that is not oem. Cheap they are not. The best price is at car quest for 300.00. Order on line and they deliver to the store if they have any left.
Here is the link: http://www.carquest.com/webapp/wcs/s...1_125891_30643

Last edited by Mike Brennan; 04-06-2013 at 05:28 AM.
Mike Brennan is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Quick reply to this message
Old 04-06-2013, 08:04 AM  
TSLMember
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Vermont
Posts: 70
Here's a question. When I look up new DI cassettes they are saying a part number 55559955 is it. Mine says 55562588. Mine is the black cassette, not red. Are these the same part with just a revised number or is there a reason for this? I don't find a new one with the same number as mine. I don't want to buy the wrong part and end up smokling my ECU or something!
newsaabguy is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Quick reply to this message
Old 04-06-2013, 08:45 AM  
Live, eat, and sleep by TSL
 
bergie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Amherst, NH
Posts: 1,453
just get a black DI your over thinking this, dont worry about part #'s just make sure it is an oem replacement and not chinese.

also take a look at the date code on the bar code sticker, if you get a used one obviously try and get one newer.
__________________
Current: 1999 LB 9-3 Viggen, 2002 SG 9-3 Viggen Vert, 2003 Cosmic 9-5 Aero
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
bergie is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Quick reply to this message
Old 04-07-2013, 06:03 AM  
TSLMember
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Vermont
Posts: 70
OK just didn't know if part numbers matter. Sounds like I keep hearing that these cars ignitions are so delicate, didn't want to mess it up with new stuff!
newsaabguy is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
 

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the The Saab Link Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Vehicle Info.
Enter your vehicle information (year, model, mods)
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 11:21 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.5.2
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
All content is copyright The Saab Link and it's original authors.


 

Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.