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Old 11-26-2017, 06:45 PM   #1
Drew In Houston
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'02 Cosmic Blue MT Wagon Thread

All going as planned I'll have this car for while.

I've been looking for a MT Aero wagon for years. It started here:
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Originally Posted by BuHuSPG View Post
I picked up last Saturday, 162k, $2k and I had some time this weekend to spend some time with it.

The exhaust was rusted away. When I picked up the cat-back section it broke in half at the resonator outlet from it's own weight. It's also leaking... pretty much everything from everywhere lol. Otherwise, the body is a little banged up, the paint's in good shape generally but there are little dents everywhere, the front spoiler is cracked, and the interior needs a little attention and a good cleaning.

This car was enthusiast-owned, and it looks like it was pampered from most of it's life, but not recently. There's not a lot of rust, except the doglegs and the exhaust.

Anyway, pictures, as purchased:














The owner was a super cool guy, he gave me all the Saab stuff that he had laying around, which included a factory car cover for it.
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First T7 19T turbo setup. First T7 Deka 80lb. injector setup.

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Old 11-26-2017, 06:53 PM   #2
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First thing, check the compression. All good there, 1-185, 2-190, 3-190, 4-185.

But, check out cylinder 4 plug on the right. I'm not sure what's going on there..




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First T7 19T turbo setup. First T7 Deka 80lb. injector setup.
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Old 11-26-2017, 06:58 PM   #3
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Ordered an aluminum radiator: https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-1997-20...72.m2749.l2649

I've never heard of these guys, but I didn't want to run a automatic radiator, and the price on this was about the same as the OEM MT radiator--and those always leak so. I'm excited to see how this works out.
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First T7 19T turbo setup. First T7 Deka 80lb. injector setup.
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Old 11-26-2017, 07:06 PM   #4
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It's not inspected and I want to start driving it, so first thing was swap the exhaust. I had one laying around from a 2000 Aero sedan that I parted out a few years ago. It needed a little work to undo some cement and bad welding where someone welded a new flex section in.

While the exhaust was down I dropped the oil pan to check for sludge. There wasn't any sludge, but the pan literally fell off when I pulled the last bold out, it was like someone forgot sealant, and there is oil everywhere. So, cleaned that up, put in a new suction o-ring, and then pulled off the crank pulley. Both the pump o-ring and the front end main seal were leaking, swapped those out.

While the pan was off, I figured I'd check the #3 main bearing; if there's going to be problems from what I've seen it'll be there because that's where the balance shafts are fed. Uh oh.



So I checked the rest. And somehow they were all good on the bottom, actually, they all looked great so I stopped there. That's a new one to me.. Since they looked good otherwise, I lubed up and spun in a new #3 set, only, and put it all back together. I may regret that later.
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First T7 19T turbo setup. First T7 Deka 80lb. injector setup.

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Old 11-26-2017, 07:22 PM   #5
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I also put on my winter tire set, (it's after Thanksgiving!) since the tires were shot, new hood struts, and a new battery.. so now I think it's inspect-able. Still to come:

-Replace leaking valve cover gasket and reseal the cam-vac drive plug leak
-Replace rear hatch struts
-Swap in the radiator when it arrives
-Polish headlamp lenses and coat them with something
-Fix passenger side window
-Swap drivers seat
-Clean it! Maybe take it to a paintless dent place
-Troubleshoot a backup sensor fault
-New thermostat and coolant temp sensor (temp gauge was faulted, not sure if it's working)
-Fix the AC, there's also either PS fluid or AC lubricant dripping out of it in the compressor area
-Change out the drivers door card
-Change out shift knob
-Touch up bare metal/rust at rear license plate corners
-Figure out which pulley is making bearing noises, now that the exhaust is fixed I can hear there's something failing there
-New air, fuel, cabin filters
-Plastic weld and paint the front spoiler
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First T7 19T turbo setup. First T7 Deka 80lb. injector setup.

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Old 11-26-2017, 07:33 PM   #6
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I am intrigued to hear your thoughts on that radiator as I had it saved on eBay for later. D088 has one now for twice as much but I doubt it's worth the money in comparison.
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Old 11-27-2017, 01:12 PM   #7
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Nice car! I'll be watching your progress with great interest.

Please document the plastic-welding repair of your front spoiler as I need a little inspiration/direction to finally address the one on my 9-5.

All these manual Aero wagons are making me think I should join the club!
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Old 11-28-2017, 06:27 AM   #8
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Awesome, subscribing for updates.

Your number three failure does seem odd. I'd probably add to the list pull the timing tensioner out and see how far that is extended.
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Old 11-28-2017, 05:49 PM   #9
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An abundance of manual wagons here all of the sudden. Nice pick up!
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Old 11-28-2017, 06:10 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by jpgroth View Post
An abundance of manual wagons here all of the sudden. Nice pick up!
I think after owning so many Saabs, us old schoolers have found its the best 90's-to '11 offering in terms of well roundedness.
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Old 11-28-2017, 06:57 PM   #11
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Quote:
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I think after owning so many Saabs, us old schoolers have found its the best 90's-to '11 offering in terms of well roundedness.
I've only owned the viggen and 9-5 aero wagon; I'll take that 9-5 wagon every day.
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Old 11-29-2017, 06:28 PM   #12
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I think Jameson nailed it. The Aero wagons are the pinnacle, as long as you're okay with driving a wagon. Years ago I had back to back Subaru wagons, '89 and then '92, and I loved them. They were crude and unrefined but man you could just load them up and they got good gas mileage...the main thing was you could never be in too much of a hurry lol.

We had an automatic 2000 Aero wagon that I got for $600 bucks and put a transmission in it, and we ended up putting a bunch of miles on it and just loving it. This wagon here is going to be my daily driver and replace the Aero sedan that I've been driving with now almost 232,000 miles.

I'm concerned about the bottom end, and also the fact that it still has the original clutch, and I'll definitely check the extension on the tensioner. My hope is that I can just drive this thing stock while I build up an engine and transmission to swap into it all at once. Then it'll be a 30 mpg 400 crank HP highway cruiser. I have the 3.82 gearset sitting here ready to go. For this one I'm considering mounting a set of secondary injectors on the underside of the intake manifold runners and running them off an independent controller. That way I can maintain the really nice low end turndown sensitivity of the stock injectors and still support the GTX-style 20T up top. That's the plan anyway. I've used an 034 mappable controller in the past and it worked great, but it looks like they're not making them anymore so I'll have to find something else I guess.

I'll take some pics when I do the plastic welding, it's not hard. The Saab stuff is usually stamped to indicate the material so that takes the guess work out of it. I pretty much just bought this kit and read through the (very good) instructions and just started doing it. It's pretty forgiving and I've actually managed to turn out some surprisingly good looking work: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'll take some pics of that radiator. I looked at the DO88 unit too, but that's just too much money. Fingers crossed that it fits!
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First T7 19T turbo setup. First T7 Deka 80lb. injector setup.
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Old 11-29-2017, 07:19 PM   #13
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Also, this thing starts hard when it's cold. I put in a brand new fresh AGM battery and it has to crank and crank and crank, then it'll stutter to life. When it's warm, no problem. The coolant temp signal shows reasonable values looking at it w/a TechII.

CPS maybe? I'm going to swap that anyway because of their sudden failure mode, hopefully this weekend if I get some time to work on it. DIC maybe? I haven't really experienced hard starting like this on any T7 car, usually they either start or they don't. I don't think it's fuel check valve either, I've tried priming it multiple times prior to engaging the starter.
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First T7 19T turbo setup. First T7 Deka 80lb. injector setup.

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Old 11-29-2017, 07:34 PM   #14
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Here's what I have for it:

-TD04-20T w/GTX-style extended tip compressor wheel and full 3" outlet on the turbine housing
-3" downpipe
-1st oversize JE piston set
-PE rods
-Full Cobalt SS 3.82 gearset w/LSD
-Timing kit
-Trans rebuild kit
-Extra engine for rebuilding w/seals etc.
-2.3NA T5 cams

What I still need to collect, hopefully while daily driving it:

-Lightweight flywheel (if I don't part out my sedan and retrieve the Abbott unit in there)
-Clutch, thinking about trying just the SACHS uprated pressure plate with a stock disk, or maybe send out a stock disk to someplace for some new friction material. I've heard there are places that'll do that, but that would be new to me. I may still get their lighweight flywheel, but I'm 100% totally done with Spec clutches after spending another almost $1000 for a setup for my Viggen that absolutely sucks.

I wonder how stiff it is?: https://www.sachsperformance.com/en/...h-cover-999793

-Intercooler
-Mappable injector controller
-Spare 9-5 MT case to transplant the Cobalt stuff into.
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First T7 19T turbo setup. First T7 Deka 80lb. injector setup.

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Old 11-29-2017, 07:48 PM   #15
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I am planning a similar turbo with a GS manifold. I don't want to do any kind of turbo that isn't a bolt in or makes me ditch my GS downpipe. So it needs to be an build up off the stock TD04.
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Old 11-30-2017, 09:26 AM   #16
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Hard start when it's cold might also be the check valves in the fuel line fittings right where the come out of the pump housing. That was usually my shotgun fix for a hard start when the car has sat for a day or two.
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Old 11-30-2017, 05:25 PM   #17
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I have an inspection visit scheduled for this Monday so I took the car for a drive to the store to hopefully get in a drive cycle. Adding to the list:

-Fog lights are both out
-Windshield wipers work only on low speed
-When moving it won't reach operating temperature so I have to get that new T-stat in there stat
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Old 11-30-2017, 05:30 PM   #18
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Drew I don't think in this case it's a check valve issue,that was my first thought too...but when I prime it multiple cycles, it makes no difference. I'm not running a check valve at all on one of my Viggens because it goes straight to -AN through the top of the fuel canister lid, and priming it one time eliminates any hesitation on start, I think the lines fill/purge pretty quickly, that's with a Bosch 044 but I'd guess at low pressures the stock pump should move sufficient volume too.
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First T7 19T turbo setup. First T7 Deka 80lb. injector setup.

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Old 11-30-2017, 06:19 PM   #19
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Quote:
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I am planning a similar turbo with a GS manifold. I don't want to do any kind of turbo that isn't a bolt in or makes me ditch my GS downpipe. So it needs to be an build up off the stock TD04.
Same here. Someday I may try something different, but right now you can get a stock TD04 built with new billet wheels on both sides for somewhere around $700. It's hard to beat that...and you don't have to fab up any lines or anything. I put a lot of miles on stuff driving back and forth to work so -AN or flexible lines in turbo service are out of the question, and that means fabbing up steel lines in addition to the cost of a new mid or large frame turbo.

The only I'd say about keeping the GS DP is that you might want to consider opening up the hot side straight to 3" v-band. It makes a difference. It's not a huge job to cut the flange off the DP and weld in an extension
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Old 12-01-2017, 04:46 AM   #20
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Just sell me your GS DP so you can go huge. Right?
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