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Customizing Your Classic 900 This forum contains all CUSTOMIZING related Q&A's, such as Lights (taillights, headlights, turn indicators, clear corners, etc), Interior and Exterior modifications, Wiring, Gauges and more.

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Old 06-26-2014, 07:45 AM   #141
 
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Originally Posted by RadioFlyer View Post
CARPETS:

the woolier the better.

The woolier the wetter!


Kinda wondering why the waterproofing didn't meet the floor and the sound proofing go under the carpet..

the fabric you have pictured as soundproofing will hold water just like the stock stuff (if water ever got in the car) and for that reason I would have the rubber meet the floor and his stuff between the carpet and rubber...

how did you totally ignore the stock set up with sponge to the floor isn't such a good idea?

Kinda thinking spray on water proofing to keep your yellow floor sound, and rubber sound deadening material.

keeping all water soluble fabric OFF THE FLOOR

But what do I know. I like directional wheels...

Last edited by B202nut-2.0; 06-26-2014 at 07:54 AM.
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Old 06-26-2014, 12:45 PM   #142
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Nice job! Pan liner is a clever idea. Close ups on where u married the old and new carpets? I have a hole in mine and need to do the same
The overlapping section is what's left of the original convertible carpet. I kept the back footwell area and these sections along the door. It doesn't look perfect, but man is it better than what was there before.



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Old 06-26-2014, 01:00 PM   #143
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Originally Posted by B202nut-2.0 View Post
The woolier the wetter!


Kinda wondering why the waterproofing didn't meet the floor and the sound proofing go under the carpet..

the fabric you have pictured as soundproofing will hold water just like the stock stuff (if water ever got in the car) and for that reason I would have the rubber meet the floor and his stuff between the carpet and rubber...

how did you totally ignore the stock set up with sponge to the floor isn't such a good idea?

Kinda thinking spray on water proofing to keep your yellow floor sound, and rubber sound deadening material.

keeping all water soluble fabric OFF THE FLOOR

But what do I know. I like directional wheels...
The top objective is keeping water off the metal and the lowest layer. So you have to extend the tub liner to make sure it catches everything - that way it has more space and air to dry above rather than below. Cup it too so it pools and dries over time, rather than leaving it flat so water eventually finds its way around.

Next, I highly suggest testing a number of different carpet underpads, and buy the one that dries the fastest. The original foam underpadding held water like a sponge. However, many polyesters and natural animal skins are made to shed water and dry very quickly. That's what you need. Obviously not the ideal situation to have any water at all under there, but if it gets under there, it's much more of a problem when it stays sopping wet, stagnates, softens the chemicals, and eats through the floor.

That said, putting the waterproofing layer against the metal is a terrible idea. Holds the water between the metal and the rubber with nowhere to go and less space and air (which theoretically is provided by the undercarpet). So it keeps the water in indefinitely. Even some withholding of water by the undercarpet until it can dry over time is better than not ever drying. I've heard the same opinion when it comes to undercoating the car - could keep water out, but could likewise keep water in and rust from the inside. Plus, the paint itself is plenty waterproof already if it's still in reasonable shape. If not, you should probably strip it and repaint the floor.

Anyway, take it or leave it, but after trying this in 3 cars before this one, I've found that it works great! Never had to rebuild a floor since.

Last edited by RadioFlyer; 06-26-2014 at 01:09 PM.
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Old 06-26-2014, 01:17 PM   #144
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SEAT SEAM HOLD-DOWN REPAIR:

Ever notice how awesome leather seats look when the underwire that pulls the seams down is still in tact? Problem was that these underwires were sewn into a sleeve that seemed to be made of some kind of paper-like material and disintegrated rapidly.

Solution: rebuild the sleeve using the thin cloth tube from the bottom of an old t-shirt. Cut it out of your t-shirt and sew it into the spot where the sleeve once was. Be sure to sew it to something that will hold well. I sew it to the leather ends, but it can be pretty tedious that way. Once done, fish the underwire through and zip tie it back into the original position. Your leather will be tight, and your seats will look and feel new again.





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Old 06-27-2014, 09:09 AM   #145
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9000 AERO SEATS MODIFIED FOR A c900:

One of the last original parts of my desert sun-damaged interior was the leather seat skins. They held together this long, but in the end there was no saving them. The seams started to come apart and they were too dry and damaged to resew. I looked long and hard for top-caliber replacements with no luck. BUT... did find a gorgeous set of 9k aero seats locally for really cheap...

POSITIVES AND NEGATIVES: So the aero seats will bolt right into electric seat rails on a c900. But since the 9000 was a 4-door, they did not flip forward. People normally just tilt them as far forward with the electric tilt as they can to get people in the back, but I that wasn't enough for me. I wanted flip! The positives of aero seats are the immense difference in comfort. Seriously! Plus they look really cool.

PLAN: I started by stripping both sets of seats down to the frames to see the differences. I found only 3. The aero seats have 6 metal rod "wings" that support the extended foam (hi lighted in picture below in red), and they have lumbar support (hi lighted in green). The c900 seats could flip forward. So the plan became to cut the wings off the aeros, weld them to the c900 seat frames, and swap over the foam and leather.



PREP: Once the seats were skinned, the prep began. I marked on the c900 frames with masking tape the areas to strip to bare metal for welding on the wings. Then sandblasted the spots. Next, take pictures of the location of the wings on the aero frames and mark them as to which side of the seat they come from before grinding off all 6 wings. Leave a little metal from the frame. Then with a bench grinder, grind them down to as close to the original rods as possible and sandblast the ends for easy welding.





PROCESS: You should be ready to weld. Just spot weld each wing in place and make sure they align as closely as possible to the position that they were in on the aero frames. If they are out of place or tilt, the padding and leather will not fit quite right and may look funny. Go back to the pictures you took before grinding them off the aero frames. I had to go back many times. Once the position is all set, finish your welds being careful not to burn through the thin metal. I'm a novice welder and this literally took me about 10 minutes to do with a borrowed welder. Great opportunity to learn a great skill if you haven't yet. Once finished, sandblast one more time and then paint over the bare metal. BE SURE TO CLEAN OUT ALL OF THE SAND WITH AN AIR BLASTER!!! Especially around the movement rails - you will hear grinding as you move the seat forward and back.



LUMBAR: The lumbar support adjustment knob and mounts will not fit into the c900 frame because it uses the same hole as the tilt forward lever. What I did was remove the mount and adjustment knob and set it in place with no adjustment using spare springs from the aero frames.



PADS: Once everything is ready, put the aero pads on. I swapped the passenger and drivers side for even wear. They are the same. For the uppers, I also swapped passenger and drivers side. The hols from the lumbar knob was too wide to look right with the tilt lever, so I closed it up and put it on the inside, and cut a new hole on the other side for the tilt lever. Be sure to make the new hole small so it will stretch into place and make it invisible under the lever trim. When done, connect all of your underwire hold downs (I used zip ties) and reinstall the seats. Since they are the original frames, they should go right back in.


Last edited by RadioFlyer; 06-27-2014 at 09:29 AM.
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Old 06-27-2014, 10:12 AM   #146
 
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anytime you get it better than it was you did well!
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Old 06-27-2014, 10:17 AM   #147
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That's the shits right there! Nice work!
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Old 06-27-2014, 10:47 AM   #148
 
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high quality innovation for sure...




now lets do the rears......
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Old 06-27-2014, 03:14 PM   #149
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mad props!
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Old 06-27-2014, 11:40 PM   #150
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I'd like to do this using manually operated c900 frames. Do you think that would be possible? Those are the spares that I have. If not, then I'll have to buy some c900 electric frames I guess.

So really the question is whether or not the flip mechanism could be transferred from a 900 seat to the Aero seat?
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Old 06-28-2014, 03:17 AM   #151
 
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I am curious to see how the look with the hood down.
I have only been able to appreciate these seats in black as you have them Emmett. They seem perfect in the hatch, curious how they look in a very.

Off to sunny Ft Lauderdale for 3 days on the beach. Enjoy our weekend mates....
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Old 06-28-2014, 04:53 AM   #152
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I'd like to do this using manually operated c900 frames. Do you think that would be possible? Those are the spares that I have. If not, then I'll have to buy some c900 electric frames I guess.

So really the question is whether or not the flip mechanism could be transferred from a 900 seat to the Aero seat?
It would definitely work on manual seats. The first writeup I read on it was with manuals, and his worked great. The only issue might be fitment of the leather on the sides because that is a different shape on manual vs electric seats.

Looking at the tilt mechanism, it would not be possible to swap to the aero seats. That was my original idea, but the frames themselves do not hinge the same way. I have heard of cutting the top off and welding in the aero seat tops just above the hinge, but I think that would be a lot more work for very little added value. I went my route for simplicity and to get them in the car quickly so I could use them sooner.

Next step is to dye them black along with the rest of the interior panels. The light gray definitely won't do.
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Old 06-28-2014, 07:12 AM   #153
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Amazing work Sam! Very well done. Maybe I could get some sand beige Aero seats and dye them red to go in my 85
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Old 06-28-2014, 07:29 AM   #154
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Bravo Sam! Unbelievable job. So many have talked about doing it, but so far as I am aware, you are the first to actually do it properly. The pics are incredibly helpful to. I would suggest doing a separate post on this with a sticky, as many would be interested. Thanks so much!
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Old 06-28-2014, 08:46 AM   #155
 
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Next step is to dye them black along with the rest of the interior panels. The light gray definitely won't do.
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Old 06-28-2014, 01:34 PM   #156
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Old 06-29-2014, 05:11 PM   #157
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Amazing work Sam! Very well done. Maybe I could get some sand beige Aero seats and dye them red to go in my 85
Red would look really neat! I was considering black with one yellow stripe and one red stripe to match my Carlsson steering wheel. It would probably look stupid though - gotta photoshop it first.
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Old 06-30-2014, 08:08 AM   #158
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DIY SHORT THROW SHIFTER:

Loving this customization thing. At the same time as the aero seat mod, I was building a DIY short throw shifter - instructions found here (thanks Turbocon!):

saabce.com

The short-throw shifter relocates the pivot point of the shifter lever to make for shorter, smoother "throw" between gears. There have been a couple of companies that have and still do manufacture these for the c900, but the manufactured ones do not retain reverse lockout, and do not have a pin to stop the shaft from spinning when when mounted in the housing.

PREP: I figured this could be a test run, so I pulled the metal-ball shifter from my '93 parts car. It was rusted beyond all recognition, but after stripping it down and running it through the metal wire wheel, it looked like this:



I used a dremel grinder to grind off the welds on the ball, then like it says on the site, I made a mark where the top of the ball was, and where the spinlock pin was (VERY IMPORTANT). Then gave a tap from above and the ball popped free of the remaining welds. With the shaft bare, I cleaned it and pounded it straight. Now it was ready to modify.

SHAFT MODIFICATION: Next, I measured 1" upward from the original position of the ball and marked it as the new ball height. Then made sure to align the spin pin and spot welded the ball back to the shaft (The website says to tap and insert a set screw, but I figured I would try a weld - seems like you could do either, but the set screw would make it adjustable in the future). Here you can see the new weld and the spin pin above.



RISER: Now the shaft was done, it was time to create the riser. I took the beat up old shifter housing from the same car and cut it down using an angle grinder and a circular bandsaw and flattened it with a belt sander - worked great! Trim it so that it is flush on the bottom to the small platform underneath (more details on saabce.com).

BEFORE:


DURING:


AFTER:


As you can see in the above image, you need to drill out the mounting holes next. Keep it as tight as possible or the shifter will have more play when mounted.

Next, find a 1 1/2" PVC coupler (mine was like 65 cents at Home Depot), and measure it against the recently modified housing. Mark where together they make 1".



Cut the PVC at the mark - Saabce suggests a chop saw, but mine caused the PVC coupler to explode. So I used a hand saw and finished and flattened it with a belt sander. Next, trim three recesses for the mounting screws to slide past, and when finished it should look something like this when reassembled (short shifter on the left, regular shifter on the right):



The mounting screws came from the under-side of the donor housing (explained on saabce.com). There are only two however, so I am still in the process of snagging a third from another parts car.

So after installing it in the car, it worked great! Throw between shifts was very smooth, easier to find, and shorter in between. Reverse lockout was retained, and the shifter did not spin. However, I had a couple of problems - first, the donor shifter was in bad shape to begin with - deep rust and had to be pounded straight; second, I lost my 1" mark before welding the ball and had to estimate - this turned out to be a big problem because it made the reverse lockout catch, 5th and reverse did not engage, and after only a few tries, ended up breaking the shifter off mid-ball. So "round two" is already in progress - this time I will measure and mark at 7/8ths inch rather than 1".

Last edited by RadioFlyer; 06-30-2014 at 08:12 AM.
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Old 06-30-2014, 08:32 AM   #159
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Cool. Just keep an eye on that PVC spacer. I did have one break on me, so I started making them out of aluminum. I cut mine by hand with flat stock on a scroll saw, but a piece of aluminum pipe would work too. I considered having a CNC shop make a batch of 1-piece risers for me, but the market won't support the effort.

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Old 06-30-2014, 08:55 AM   #160
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Got any of those aluminum spacers left?
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