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Old 08-26-2012, 01:55 PM   #1
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No start only clicking in ignition relay

Replaced the electrical part of the ignition a while back after the internal spring broke and stopped returning the key to ON. Starter ran with the engine for maybe 30 seconds before I realized what the noise was. After replacing the switch, all has been good with no problems for weeks, however the readout has always shown around 10 volts on initial start since I bought the car this past May. Despite this, it has always started with no problems. Battery is less than 9 months old.

Fast forward: came back from a weeks vacation and the car won't start. All lights work fine, and the battery reads around 13V+ via a multimeter. When I attempt to start the car, it doesn't turn over at all. No action anywhere except for a clicking from the ignition relay. I pulled it out but no sign of being toast externally.

I took the battery and had it tested, and it was dead. Voltage was a little low, but more importantly the cold cranking amps were something like 6...yes 6...so it was bad. I bought a new battery and hooked it up, but the behavior is the same as before, so it is something else. Just the same little clicking.. A little worrisome beyond this particular problem because something is draining the battery, possibly the alternator on its way out. Oh well I'll get this starting issue sorted first and then look into it...

I've read all the threads I could find here, mostly citing ignition wire corrosion, and/or solenoid, starter, etc. Anybody has these exact symptoms and know what solved it? The starter is a possibility of course, but before I order one I was hoping to get a better idea of the culprit.

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Old 08-26-2012, 03:10 PM   #2
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I would say check the voltage at the starter solenoid lead. You should have voltage there, if not go back to the starter relay and check the voltage coming off that while trying to start.

I also wonder if its the relay it self. Have you tried jumping the contacts to get the starter to turn over?

Also how long was the new battery in the car before you tried starting it up again. Maybe it became drained over time if you had left it sit.
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Old 08-26-2012, 07:17 PM   #3
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There is a chance that the new battery maybe low, depending on how long it sat at the parts place.

I would check the wire that goes to the starter/solenoid, make sure that its hooked up and not corroded.

Its possible to pull the starter out of a 9K and test it, chance that it stayed engaged while you were running/driving and burned out. Put a used one in if you can locate one.
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Old 09-09-2012, 07:39 PM   #4
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This is still ongoing, sadly. Took the original starter out today and had it tested, and it's good. Battery is putting out 12V and 14 amps at the posts and at the starter. Relay seems fine, but I've got another on the way just to check 100%. The wires don't look corroded at all, at least not at the starter end. Took a pic of the battery post side, and there's a little bit of melting, but it doesn't look serious. What do you think guys? At this point I'm planning on roll starting it this week and taking it to my indy. I'm out of ideas.
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Old 09-11-2012, 12:36 PM   #5
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I'd replace that entire cable next step, also, if different, carefully check the cable providing power to the starter for corrosion. If all checks out then perhaps the ignition switch is not well?
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Old 09-11-2012, 01:33 PM   #6
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I'd replace that entire cable next step, also, if different, carefully check the cable providing power to the starter for corrosion. If all checks out then perhaps the ignition switch is not well?
Yeah I've got a new cable on order. I JUST replaced the ignition switch(electrical part) a little over a month ago, because the the internal spring broke and it would stick at "start". Hopefully that new one hasn't one bad already...
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Old 09-20-2012, 09:46 AM   #7
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Update!

Replaced the battery cable; no change

Took the brand new battery back to the store, and it had a bad cell. They gave me a replacement, I took it home and hooked it up, and as soon as I connected it the alarm started going off. Got in the car pulled fuse 19, got out, key in the door 3 times to the left, once to right, then unlocked car with fob. Alarm should be reset now for sure except....

Still no start. I connected a jumper wire from the battery cable connection on the starter to the yellow solenoid wire, and it fired up. My first hotwire! This confirms it's not the starter, the solenoid, the battery cable, or the battery.

All that's left is the ignition (only 3 months old), relay(unlikely, I've swapped in a new one), anti-theft or wiring itself.

Now at least I can get it to the shop for them to have a look to see what's going on...
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Old 09-20-2012, 11:11 AM   #8
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thus is the gremlins that make the 9000 almost reliable sometimes. I hope it gets sorted out soon for you.
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Old 09-24-2012, 10:21 AM   #9
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Guys. You won't believe this. Well, maybe you will. Turns out it WAS the new ignition switch, which was not even 3 months old. I'm so p****d that I replaced everything else, and then had to take it in. I'm sure they will charge me $80 for and hour labor, and probably $80 for the part just for this, and since thesaabsite.com doesn't give refunds on electrical parts I think I'm out of luck. I've been trying to call those guys for over a week just to see if they would switch out the part but they haven't called me back or answered. If they had, I could have already swapped the switch out and not had to take it in to the mechanic at all. Arghhh!
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Old 09-24-2012, 12:30 PM   #10
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Yuk, if you have the proceedure to test an ignition switch please post it here.
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Old 09-24-2012, 12:38 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Guys. You won't believe this. Well, maybe you will. Turns out it WAS the new ignition switch, which was not even 3 months old. I'm so p****d that I replaced everything else, and then had to take it in. I'm sure they will charge me $80 for and hour labor, and probably $80 for the part just for this, and since thesaabsite.com doesn't give refunds on electrical parts I think I'm out of luck. I've been trying to call those guys for over a week just to see if they would switch out the part but they haven't called me back or answered. If they had, I could have already swapped the switch out and not had to take it in to the mechanic at all. Arghhh!
Made in China?

Sorry - couldn't resist.

Glad to hear you figured it out!
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i don't think a c900 has sold for 28k since the day one left the dealership new.
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Old 09-24-2012, 12:42 PM   #12
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Made in China?

Sorry - couldn't resist.

Glad to hear you figured it out!
Thanks man. what a PITA. Scantech junk I guess.
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Old 09-24-2012, 01:34 PM   #13
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Thanks man. what a PITA. Scantech junk I guess.
Scantech = China.
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i don't think a c900 has sold for 28k since the day one left the dealership new.
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Old 10-07-2019, 03:02 PM   #14
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I'm about to deal with this exact issue today with my 9k carlsson. Car has been partly-disassembled over a year. Put motor back together last week, couldn't get it to start with fully charged battery. Did the hotwire thing from batt + direct to solenoid terminal and starter worked.

But with key, nothing. Ok not totally nothing - when I turn key to start the elec system seems to go 'dark' like there's a big load, I get a click from behind the glovebox, but nothing else. Haven't popped any fuses (I couldn't find one specific to the starter relay and ignition fuse is fine).

I have a new genuine ignition switch (got it from eEuroparts before they nearly went bust), and want to now try exploring if the current ignition switch is dud, or there's a problem with a relay.

I've never tried to access or work on a 9k ignition switch so I'm sure this is going to be interesting.

I also need to replace the ignition lock barrel as I have a full new lockset ready to go in as for the existing lockset I only have 1 key without a spare.

Craig.
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Last edited by c900; 10-07-2019 at 03:04 PM.
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Old 10-08-2019, 02:51 AM   #15
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On your '92, check the connection at the big round plug in the firewall area at base of windshield ("fish tank")
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Old 10-10-2019, 04:53 AM   #16
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I worked out I had two problems - the original ignition switch was toast, and I'd forgotten that I'd unplugged the alarm (no way to identify it's origins or manufacturer or work out if it is 'original' to the vehicle or added later) at some point. Correcting those two things solved it and I had the car running for the first time in over a year.
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