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Old 10-31-2008, 11:42 AM   #1
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Pulling motor

Alright, iv tried to drill those bolts out that broke, no luck and i pretty much think its impossible to do with the motor in the car,


My question to all of you, how hard is it to pull a motor? i have the head off can i still pull the block out or do i need to reinstall the head to successfully pull the motor? iv never done it before and now im thinking of just making this my winter project

Thanks
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Old 10-31-2008, 11:52 AM   #2
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Use 2 head bolts and a chain into the block and pull it out.
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Old 10-31-2008, 12:07 PM   #3
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Use 2 head bolts and a chain into the block and pull it out.
Two that you don't plan on re-using
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Old 10-31-2008, 12:14 PM   #4
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i wasnt going to reuse any, i have new ones, do i leave the trans in or does that come out or what, like i said i have never done it before, whats involved
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Old 10-31-2008, 12:19 PM   #5
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I pulled the trans out with the motor.
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Old 10-31-2008, 12:24 PM   #6
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Remove ps pump from block(less mess) Don't break the two bolts!
Oil cooler with motor(less mess)
Harness/cowl with motor (easier)
Trans with motor (easier)
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Old 10-31-2008, 02:53 PM   #7
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wow didnt know i could pull the trans from the top, im a little confused on how to pull the block, you said put 2 head bolts back in? and just hook it up 2 that?
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Old 10-31-2008, 05:16 PM   #8
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Remove ps pump from block(less mess) Don't break the two bolts!
Oil cooler with motor(less mess)
Harness/cowl with motor (easier)
Trans with motor (easier)
Ditto! Makes it pretty damn easy. Unhook axles, unhook shifter, unhook coolant, fuel, and exhaust and pretty much good to pull!

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wow didnt know i could pull the trans from the top, im a little confused on how to pull the block, you said put 2 head bolts back in? and just hook it up 2 that?
Thread in a head bolt on either end of the block, I have a chain big enough that I thread them through the links, and then hook the chain to your hoist and pull it up!
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Old 10-31-2008, 05:19 PM   #9
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Ditto! Makes it pretty damn easy. Unhook axles, unhook shifter, unhook coolant, fuel, and exhaust and pretty much good to pull!



Thread in a head bolt on either end of the block, I have a chain big enough that I thread them through the links, and then hook the chain to your hoist and pull it up!
interesting, the threads are strong enough to handle the weight of the block?
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Old 10-31-2008, 07:50 PM   #10
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Here ya go....I put together a rediculously detailed instructional on what it takes to pull the motor. HANDS DOWN the best way is to do the motor and trans as a unit, both out the top. As you will read in the responses, you can leave the CV's attached at the wheels, separate them from the tranny, and you'll be good.

http://www.saabnet.com/tsn/bb/9000/i...tml?bID=264869
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Old 10-31-2008, 11:45 PM   #11
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Wow thats great, thanks man, i tried searching and came up empty on a step by step, i just gota locate a engine hoist and go out and buy a engine stand and what not,

Last thing, when the tranny and block come out, can i detach the tranny or is that alot of extra work?

on a side note

When the block is out, since its a winter project its gona be like 3 months before it goes back in to the car, what should i do as far as replacing/maintenance/performance upgrades? should i just rebuild the motor ie pistons rings etc etc, whats important to change and replace while its out?
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Old 11-01-2008, 01:04 PM   #12
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Alright i spoke with a mechanic friend of mine and he said the easiest way to go about this is to jack the car up really high, unbolt everything and drop it down onto a dolly or what ever and just roll the transmission and block out from underneath he said it would be harder to pull everything from the top, anyone do this? whats involved when doing this, he said he would help me so i just want to scope things out for my self, i also asked him about the engine stands and he said most stands are for american cars so it would be hard to mount my block to the stand, he said simplest thing would be to place the block on a table and just do the work like that
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Old 11-01-2008, 05:19 PM   #13
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I suggest that you talk to a mechanic more familiar with Saabs The 9000 block will fit on a standard engine stand, you may need additional longer bolts, but it will work, separated from the trans. If the trans is still attached, better to work on some blocks or mini/cradle.

Yes it is preferred to pull from the bottom, but can you get your car ~3 feet in the air on jackstands? If you have a full lift, sure it can come out the bottom.. Its isn't hard to pull it out the top. you may have to make an engine brace/support using a 4x4 and an eyehook.

Couple of thoughts ...


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Alright i spoke with a mechanic friend of mine and he said the easiest way to go about this is to jack the car up really high, unbolt everything and drop it down onto a dolly or what ever and just roll the transmission and block out from underneath he said it would be harder to pull everything from the top, anyone do this? whats involved when doing this, he said he would help me so i just want to scope things out for my self, i also asked him about the engine stands and he said most stands are for american cars so it would be hard to mount my block to the stand, he said simplest thing would be to place the block on a table and just do the work like that
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Old 11-01-2008, 07:30 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oliversexpedition View Post
I suggest that you talk to a mechanic more familiar with Saabs The 9000 block will fit on a standard engine stand, you may need additional longer bolts, but it will work, separated from the trans. If the trans is still attached, better to work on some blocks or mini/cradle.

Yes it is preferred to pull from the bottom, but can you get your car ~3 feet in the air on jackstands? If you have a full lift, sure it can come out the bottom.. Its isn't hard to pull it out the top. you may have to make an engine brace/support using a 4x4 and an eyehook.

Couple of thoughts ...
Thanks, lifting the car up i dont think should be a problem ill just go out and get some taller jack stands, i have a proper floor jack so no worries about that, im just worried about being able to work on it, im sure the block is heavy unlike the head, i want to look into a engine block stand because i think it will make my life easier moving it around and being able to rotate it to get the sump off and what not, ill have to go out and look at it, my local harbor freight store has a 1000lb capacity one for about $50, i think having the block on a cradle or dolly will make it hard for me to work on it, idk, im just curious how hard is it to change rings, he was telling me that i should change the rings because most of the compression/power is lost when the rings go bad or get old, any words, what else should i look into while the block is out, thanks
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Old 11-01-2008, 07:38 PM   #15
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Thanks, lifting the car up i dont think should be a problem ill just go out and get some taller jack stands, i have a proper floor jack so no worries about that, im just worried about being able to work on it, im sure the block is heavy unlike the head, i want to look into a engine block stand because i think it will make my life easier moving it around and being able to rotate it to get the sump off and what not, ill have to go out and look at it, my local harbor freight store has a 1000lb capacity one for about $50, i think having the block on a cradle or dolly will make it hard for me to work on it, idk, im just curious how hard is it to change rings, he was telling me that i should change the rings because most of the compression/power is lost when the rings go bad or get old, any words, what else should i look into while the block is out, thanks
I'm being dead serious....don't screw around with dropping the ENTIRE subframe out from under the car. You'll have to unbolt everything from the subframe anyway, so just leave it and pull everything from the top. WAY safer, and I've got to believe its quicker. I've done the job probabably 8-10 times now, and I can EASILY drive a 9000 into the garage, pull the motor and tranny, split them, rejoin them, reinstall and drive back out in 5-6 hours. It really isn't tough.

Unless you feel you are getting serious blowby, I wouldn't touch the rings. Leave the slugs in the holes and focus on the bottom end.

Get an engine stand from you local parts store. Well worth the $75, and once you're done, sell it on CL to recoup some cost. Use grade 8 hardware to hold the block to the stand.
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Old 11-01-2008, 07:49 PM   #16
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I'm being dead serious....don't screw around with dropping the ENTIRE subframe out from under the car. You'll have to unbolt everything from the subframe anyway, so just leave it and pull everything from the top. WAY safer, and I've got to believe its quicker. I've done the job probabably 8-10 times now, and I can EASILY drive a 9000 into the garage, pull the motor and tranny, split them, rejoin them, reinstall and drive back out in 5-6 hours. It really isn't tough.

Unless you feel you are getting serious blowby, I wouldn't touch the rings. Leave the slugs in the holes and focus on the bottom end.

Get an engine stand from you local parts store. Well worth the $75, and once you're done, sell it on CL to recoup some cost. Use grade 8 hardware to hold the block to the stand.
Do you have to drop the subframe to get the block and trans out from underneath the car? ugh i dont want to mess with the subframe, im sure those bolts are rusted to shit and will break when i try to unbolt them,

When you say focus on the bottom end what do you mean exactly
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Old 11-01-2008, 07:58 PM   #17
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Do you have to drop the subframe to get the block and trans out from underneath the car? ugh i dont want to mess with the subframe, im sure those bolts are rusted to shit and will break when i try to unbolt them,

When you say focus on the bottom end what do you mean exactly
Subframe stays. The motor / transmission unit is held in place with 4 bolts. One on the lower front end of the tranny, one on the lower front end of the motor (under water pump area), one on the lower rear end of the motor, and one on the upper rear end of the motor. Those 4 bolts are all that holds it in place. All the work is in removing the peripheral stuff to free up the unit for removal; stuff like exhaust, power steering pump, wiring, fuel lines, etc.

I said to focus on the bottom end, meaning the bottom end of the motor; oil pump, crank, bearings etc. Isn't that why you're removing the motor?
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Old 11-01-2008, 08:05 PM   #18
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no unfortunately not, idk if you read my original thread, but what had happened was, the drive shaft bracket, the one bolted to the block, well, those bolts snapped and are now lodged it the block, theres hardly any room for me to drill them out, i thought if i removed the head i would be able to get enough room to do it, i was wrong also when i removed the head i realized my headgasket was gona fail anytime, so i caught that before any major damage was done, but im gona pull the block have it in front of me so i can drill those bolts out, and since its getting really cold here and my garage is packed with boxes, iv been doing this outside, so the plan is to pull the block, get a stand move it into the garage where theres enough room for me to work, and just clean shit up, replace anything that i think i need to replace,

You said the problem with dropping the motor is that i need to remove alot of other stuff first right? wouldnt i have to remove most of that anyways if i was gona pull it from the top??
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Old 11-02-2008, 05:57 AM   #19
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To remove stuff from the bottom, I see you needing to remove the exhaust, the wiring harness, the fuel lines, intercooler / radiator plumbing and some other random stuff. To remove it from the top, you need to remove all of the same stuff, plus the alternator, the power steering pump and the CV's. About 20mins more work.

The BAD part of removing from the bottom is that once you drop the whole subframe, the car A) needs to remain hoisted, B) it cannot move, and C) the removed assembly will be one huge mass to "roll" around. You would still have to remove the transmission, motor and power steering pump after you have the whole large assembly out. With picking everything from the top, once you have the motor / trans assembly out, you can put the 2 bolts back in that hold the lower strut to the spindle, and the car can be towed, rolled around, and moved as need be (you said its going on outside, right?). Plus, its a lot smaller of a package to deal with; motor/trans -vs- motor/trans/subframe/steering rack/lower control arms/spindles/CV's/brakes.

I PM'd with my number, give me a ring if you want.
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Old 11-02-2008, 07:08 AM   #20
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hi moreboost whats your location in NJ if you need help give me a call 212 889 8188 jonesy, it very easy too take engine out from the top of all the saab, the 9000 engine 1hr and 30mins on the ground if all the bolt work whit you.
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