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Old 01-14-2015, 10:43 AM   #1
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900SET crank no start

Hey guys,

Need some help located in Philadelphia, PA. 1997 900 SE turbo 176k owned for 12k so far and this is first issue.

2 weeks ago I was driving my very Low SAAB with 3 people in the car at least 550 extra lbs. I hit a huge dip in the road, car bottomed out, stalled...

Now I have some time to fix and I need I input/help.

Car threw a CEL that I cant read because my buddy has a shit scan too.

My thoughts - CPS, DI, Fuel pump, relays, or DICE/TWICE system.

Anyone have a code reader they can lend out?
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Old 01-14-2015, 10:47 AM   #2
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I've been reading up a lot and this image attached has got me thinking about the TWICE causing no start.
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File Type: jpg image_1421261191383.jpg (139.9 KB, 9 views)
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Old 01-14-2015, 02:10 PM   #3
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Your car does not have TWICE, that was '99+.

You might have sliced up one of the fuel lines, they run under the car. You should get under there and see if anything is damaged before chasing wascally wabbits.

What does it do when you try to crank it? Will it fire on starter fluid, or not? Does your remote still lock and unlock the car?
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Old 01-14-2015, 02:44 PM   #4
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Okay thanks for the clarification Drew. It currently does not start on starter fluid according to my mechanic buddy it's sittin outside his workplace now.

We checked power to FP #32? Fuse and it is getting power. Can't hear the fuel pump priming when ignition is ON position.
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Old 01-14-2015, 06:03 PM   #5
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If you jump power across the pump and tap on top of the pump housing or bang on the bottom of the fuel tank with a rubber mallet or something sometimes they will free up.

If you put a volt meter across the terminals that power the pump there should be continuity (a few ohms). If it's got no continuity or high resistance the pump may be fried.
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Old 01-21-2015, 09:20 AM   #6
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Just bought a code reader harbor freight centech CAN OBD2 scan tool with ABS...well it doesn't read the code either.

Took sensor off intake manifold sprayed some starter fluid in, reconnect sensor, try to start...crank but no start.

So I check power to FP fuse #32 crank and it is getting voltage. Swapped out DI with a previously working one, same crank no start.

If it was FP then it would start on starter fluid...
If it was CPS then would I be getting power to fuse #32?

Anyone have a tech 2 philadelphia area? I have $ and 900 parts if anyone can help me solve this.

Next step?
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Old 01-21-2015, 09:37 AM   #7
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Video of right after it stalled:
http://youtu.be/0hWpCLbkUrE

Video after adding starter fluid:
http://youtu.be/AyVzXk3Yj_g
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Old 01-21-2015, 10:02 AM   #8
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The fuse is always powered when the key is on, the relay that switches the fuel pump on is after the fuse.

You should check for power at the connector that plugs into the pump.

Crank with no start on starter fluid is going to be either CPS, or a problem with the ignition system, possibly in the wiring to the DI cassette.

Does the tachometer needle move up a little bit and stay there when cranking?

From your video your battery is almost dead, make sure to get that on a charger and get fresh juice in there before doing too much more diagnosing. Sometimes a low battery will throw you for a loop.
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Old 01-21-2015, 10:02 AM   #9
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buy this Mini ELM327 V1 5 OBD2 II Bluetooth Diagnostic Car Auto Interface Scanner SS | eBay
and download the "Torque" app for your phone. I have had very good luck reading codes, clearing codes, checking readiness of monitors, and getting real time data out of the car. Total cost is right around $10.
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Old 01-21-2015, 10:13 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by DrewP View Post
The fuse is always powered when the key is on, the relay that switches the fuel pump on is after the fuse.

You should check for power at the connector that plugs into the pump.

Crank with no start on starter fluid is going to be either CPS, or a problem with the ignition system, possibly in the wiring to the DI cassette.

Does the tachometer needle move up a little bit and stay there when cranking?

From your video your battery is almost dead, make sure to get that on a charger and get fresh juice in there before doing too much more diagnosing. Sometimes a low battery will throw you for a loop.
The tachometer needle stays put while cranking. I charged the battery via jumper cables and the last video was the last time I tried to start it.

So from what your saying right now it could be: FP relay, FP, CPS, DI or wiring. Any idea why I can't read the code?

EDIT: Will have another ride to try to fix at 7PM. 1st thing I'll do is test power to connector under rear seats. Then I will test CPS sensor make sure it reads 540 OHM +/-50...How can I test the connector to the DI?

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Originally Posted by BuHuSPG View Post
buy this Mini ELM327 V1 5 OBD2 II Bluetooth Diagnostic Car Auto Interface Scanner SS | eBay
and download the "Torque" app for your phone. I have had very good luck reading codes, clearing codes, checking readiness of monitors, and getting real time data out of the car. Total cost is right around $10.
I will get on this ASAP. I had a feeling the code reader I bought wouldn't work: OBD II & CAN Scan Tool with ABS
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Last edited by BluAero; 01-21-2015 at 10:17 AM.
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Old 01-21-2015, 05:27 PM   #11
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Here's a video of attempting to start (hooked up with jumper cables). It definitely sounded starved.

http://youtu.be/nKIDhGRjADA

I took the connector off that goes to FP. Gas gauge still worked so I had the correct connector.

Checked voltage with ignition on and it read 0.

So I am not getting power to the Fuel pump. Did not have an extra set of hands to test power while cranking.

The central locking works perfect. Updated the code scanner and tried to read code to no avail.
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Old 01-22-2015, 06:17 PM   #12
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Solved!!! Turned outs the relay under the kickpanel was half was plugged in. Wow sometimes it is the simplest at fix. Lower car 176k ahoulda known! Thanks for the help!

http://youtu.be/voMrnsFLmSk
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Old 01-23-2015, 12:32 PM   #13
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Congratulations. We all know what a find like that feels like. It is good!
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