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Old 10-14-2014, 01:38 PM   #1
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Before I tear apart my wiring harness

This will be a bit lengthy, but I want to make sure I cover everything that could have an effect on the issue. Thanks in advance for any help.

So, back in August, I swapped a 2.3 from a 98 9000 into my 95 NG900. Before the swap, there were no problems with the car. The 2.3 also ran perfectly when pulled from the donor. The motor was pulled from my car, and it sat for a couple days. I sprayed the engine bay with some organic degreaser and pressure washed the engine bay. I didn't go crazy near any of the electric components. It sat for another couple days, as I pulled everything out to paint most of the engine bay.

I took all the parts I needed to put on the 2.3, sandblasted and either cleared or painted them black. Everything was re-installed on the motor. I install everything into the 900, fill her up with fluids and hook up the battery. At this point, the only part that has changed is the cps, which was left on the 2.3 block. I start the car for the first time, and it throws a code. Turns out to be a bad TPS. I did take it off when I tore the TB apart, so I figure nbd, Ill throw a spare on.

I clear the code, start it up again, and the code is gone. Now I get a p0131, low o2 voltage. So at this point, before I went any further, I flashed the tune for the 2.3 ( Thanks Mike D. !) I put the ecu back in with the new tune, and start the car. Its got a somewhat rough idle, bad throttle response, and it sounds like it is missing, and still has the p0131. Same as before the flash.

I had replaced all of the vacuum lines, but I checked them all again. No problems. I checked, cleaned, and tried another AIC. No change. I swapped in another D.I. No change. I checked the grounds at the intake manifold. All good there. So I buy a universal Bosch o2. I put that in, and it doesn't really do anything.

I swap in a spare MAP, which helps a little, and the car is actually somewhat drive-able now. But it still isn't quite right. If you drive it, no codes. if it sits and idles it will throw a p0131 or p0130. Cant seem to make up its mind. I hooked up the scanner. At idle, it will jack up the short term fuel trim to 24% almost immediately. I let some propane gas into the intake, and the o2 signal spiked to .8 or so volts, so it is getting through to the ecu.

I check the plugs. They are all very black and sooty( they were brand new). The exact same for all four cylinders. I checked the tps gain and it seemed a little crappy. So I bought a brand new Bosch. It didn't really do anything either. I swapped in another spare MAP, with no change.

The MAP sensor reading from the two good ones I tried doesn't seem to match what my Autometer reads at about 2k rpm, just free revving, but both maps had read about the same, so I assume they are good.

My next step is to swap in another harness that has had the ground junctions checked and repaired. I am open to other suggestions. I may have missed or left out some things, I spent many many hours looking over this, and have had some other people weigh in as well.
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Old 10-14-2014, 03:55 PM   #2
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Did you swap the O2 sensors from the donor vehicle or did MikeD compensate for them? Evap valve bad?
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Old 10-14-2014, 04:19 PM   #3
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o2 sensors are factory ng900 units. The universal is the correct part number per eeuro for my car. As far as I know the engine shouldnt change what o2 sensor I need.

I blocked off the evap from the throttle body and it made no change. I assume that would have helped if it was bad.
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Old 10-14-2014, 05:30 PM   #4
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I've also tried another ECU, it doesn't have the proper tune, but it still should have been able to idle the car with no issues.
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Old 10-14-2014, 06:05 PM   #5
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Maybe an injector took a crap. Happen to me out of the blue. Car was running fine ran into a store came out and car barley wants to run.

Edit:
This happened with my deka 60s and I changed just about everything before figuring out it was the injectors. Even bench testep them and they tested fine but one or 2 had something wrong with them.
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Old 10-14-2014, 06:08 PM   #6
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I thought of that too, but all the plugs had the same black sooty color. If one injector was bad the plug in that cylinder should look very different.
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Old 10-14-2014, 06:30 PM   #7
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Same thing with me. Plugs showed fine but I just threw a set of known good 60s from my friends car without changing anything else and it fixed my issue. I also had my harness out 4 times checking it.
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Old 10-14-2014, 06:33 PM   #8
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How did the car run under a little bit of boost? Mine gets a little better once I get moving
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Old 10-14-2014, 06:36 PM   #9
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According to my dad, who drove behind me at one point, the exhaust smelled terrible and it was puffing black sometimes
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Old 10-14-2014, 06:45 PM   #10
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Any chance you get access to a Tech-II or T5Suite?
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Old 10-14-2014, 06:47 PM   #11
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I have access to both. I've been using a generic scanner to check the codes and some data for now.
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Old 10-15-2014, 04:36 AM   #12
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Yea mine would idle half ass ok just on the extremely lean side. And if I went in boost it sounded like I had a 2 step or anti lag on all the time. Plus the car was completely undriveable
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Old 10-15-2014, 05:15 AM   #13
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I'll check it out, but it isnt nearly that bad. It actually seems to run and sound a little better once it has some boost. Not perfect, but it isnt terrible.
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Old 10-15-2014, 06:41 AM   #14
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Pull the vacuum line off the FPR when its running. I had one go bad and was sending fuel into the intake manifold via the vac line. It could also see if the FPR is failed in any other way.
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Old 10-15-2014, 06:45 AM   #15
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I think I checked the line once for fuel, but I will give that another try with the engine running like you mentioned.
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Old 10-15-2014, 06:52 AM   #16
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I think I checked the line once for fuel, but I will give that another try with the engine running like you mentioned.
Just an idea. In my situation the car kept running worse and worse and the ECU kept trying to pull fuel but it just idled very badly and had some blackness in the exhaust.
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Old 10-15-2014, 06:55 AM   #17
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I appreciate your input. I didn't have the car running at the time so it is definitely worth another look. I'm all about checking little things like that before I go any further.
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Old 10-15-2014, 11:33 AM   #18
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I forget which codes my car threw but you seem to be having the same issue I had when I upgraded my MAP sensor and the connection wasn't seated right. It would run, but not there was obviously something wrong. Car seems to be getting WAY too much fuel. I'm sure your MPG is through the basement.
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Old 10-15-2014, 12:30 PM   #19
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I forget which codes my car threw but you seem to be having the same issue I had when I upgraded my MAP sensor and the connection wasn't seated right. It would run, but not there was obviously something wrong. Car seems to be getting WAY too much fuel. I'm sure your MPG is through the basement.
I'll look into that too. I agree, it seems like the car is getting much more fuel than it should. I honestly don't think I've driven it enough to use more than a gallon or two since I put the new motor in
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Old 10-17-2014, 07:44 AM   #20
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I'm headed home today and will be able to mess around with the car a little over the weekend. Any other suggestions or ideas?
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