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Old 08-19-2014, 09:39 AM   #1
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Dead Viggen... caught me cheating

I was taking my youngest to watch my oldest at his first HS soccer game of the year. Pointed out a Ford Focus and said that is a car I am thinking of replacing this car with... but the sportier version. She said YUK... it's ugly... that back is just weird.... front OK... get a normal looking car & she pointed out a honda civic as we passed it... she likes the sedan look

Then a few miles later saw a GTi & again I mentioned that's a possibility & of coarse.... she thinks it's ugly.

So a few hours later we went to grab dinner with the soccer game and the viggen won't start. It cranks over (new starter a few months ago) but nothing else. Last night I swapped DI's hopeing that was the cause.... I had a spare DI that was suppose to be good but after the swap no luck.

Had the car on a flatbed this morning.... hopefully it's nothing to major. When we were putting it on the flatbed I saw the inside of my front tires are at the chords...... thus car shopping.

Conti DWS or Nokian WRg3 is what I am leaning towards. Snow tires are shot and I figure one of these should get me through the winter OK. Purchased a miata so I shouldn't be driving this as much 9 months out of the year..... Nokian's are $80 ish more a tire.... is it worth it??
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Old 08-19-2014, 09:47 AM   #2
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DWS are alright, they sure last a long time. Had a set on my wife's car for about 45k, still had another 10k in them but we blew one out on the highway a while back. Noisy though, to the point where I wasn't too upset to replace them with a set of Michelin Pilots.

RE: your no-start, I'd check CPS first, fuel pump second. In theory, CPS should give you a little warning when it's going bad and still start when the car is cold, just not when its hot. If the tach needle jumps around while cranking, then the CPS is still alright. Fuel pump, you should be able to hear it prime when you turn the key to run, or just press in the valve on the fuel rail and see if you get gas shooting out (watch out, under 30~ psi of pressure). If both seem to be working, try another DI.
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Old 08-19-2014, 11:57 AM   #3
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Old 08-20-2014, 09:06 AM   #4
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thanks for the info.... there was zero warning, car just died. Ran fine all day and fortunately left me stranded 1 mile from home after dinner and my wife drove separately. Just made it back from a 80 mile trip watching my oldests first HS soccer game... could of been a much bigger PITA!!!

Tire wise I went to the local shop who sells Continental & Nokian & he thought it's worth the added money for the WRg3's, around $400 more. Since I just purchased a Miata I figure I can deal with all seasons on the Viggen.
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Old 08-20-2014, 11:36 AM   #5
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I think a year from now I will be in the same boat, shopping for an all-season extreme weather rated tire. I put very few miles on the Aero in the summer and not sure it's worth swapping wheels/tires plus having to always store the 2nd set. Only thing I would feel a little bit bad about is running RK1's in the winter up here in NH.
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Old 08-20-2014, 01:05 PM   #6
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Sounds like the Fuel pump.
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Old 08-22-2014, 10:24 AM   #7
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of coarse the car has been running fine since it was towed. I didnt try starting it up before it left on the flatbed which I should of.... probably would of started.
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Old 08-22-2014, 01:23 PM   #8
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Wait your post said car shopping. Did you mean tire shopping?

Are you going to fix the issue that wore the tires unevenly?
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Old 08-22-2014, 02:24 PM   #9
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of coarse the car has been running fine since it was towed. I didnt try starting it up before it left on the flatbed which I should of.... probably would of started.
This happened to me with my spg, car just died, couldn't start it. Tow truc kcame, towed it to shop, pulled it off, tried starting it, it fired right up. Did it gain, fuel pump. Just be careful, might be the cps too.
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Old 08-22-2014, 03:44 PM   #10
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Yes to car and tire shopping. Tires will be soon.... Car will hopefully be in a few years.

Due to age... Maybe just replace both the cps and fuel pump to be safe.

Yes I will be looking into tire wear on the inside of the front wheels. All tires are just barely over the min tread indicators so not sure yet if its just the alignment of if something else is going on.
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Old 08-27-2014, 07:56 PM   #11
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Couldn't get the car to replicate the notwantingtostart syndrome... So it has a new fuel pump and cps sensor

Ordered new tires today and will hopefully get them installed tomorrow or Friday. Decided to pay a bit more and get the nokian wrg3

Going to suck having a all season tires on the viggen. Hopefully they will perform ok especially in the snow/ice
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Old 08-28-2014, 07:25 PM   #12
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New tires on on.... Picked the car up from the tire shop and now the check engine light is on

When the car first died on me I swapped di cassettes to a used one which was suppose to be in good condition. Now that the check engine light is on.... Going to swap the old di back into the car and hopefully that will solve the problem.

Tire wise... Amazing how much different a car feels with warn out tires at the min tread marking vs brand new rubber. Being a non performance tire steering is substantially lighter and due to check engine light.... I haven't "tested" the tires yet
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Old 08-29-2014, 02:18 AM   #13
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Once you get a few miles on them definitely let us know how the WRg3's are!
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Old 08-29-2014, 07:09 AM   #14
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Check the sticker on the DIC, may be a knockoff or an older version, or just not as 'good' as advertised. The misfire code is pretty sensitive - only two codes I ever had on my LBV were for misfire and slow o2, neither of which manifested in any way I could feel. How are the plugs?
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Old 08-29-2014, 12:17 PM   #15
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I swapped the di last night back to what was in there before it died on me.... Light was still on.

This morning started the car up and it was gone... Drove 100 or so miles and it has stayed off. My guess is possibly the tire shop messed with something causing the check engine light?? They listed a bunch of things that I need to repair on the car... including motor oil, trans oil, sparkplugs, coolant and the list went on

Plus are 14K miles old, motor oil 2,500 & trans fluid 40K miles.... they told me no mileage warrantly because I didn't want them to do a alignment.

I do hope to swap my plugs soon and with the DI being I think almost 50K miles old... should I replace that? Anything else I should do for it's 150,000 mile checkup??

Tire wise... I haven't pushed them in turns at all only cruised down city streets and the highway. Steering feels quite a bit lighter vs the pilot super sports and the ride is a bit softer but the steering feel is similar to what it was... be it good or bad

Looking forward to seeing how they perform in the winter.... I will post updates
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Old 08-29-2014, 05:50 PM   #16
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Did you get 225/45/17 or 215? Just out of curiosity and if you don't mind, what did you pay for all 4 mounted and balanced?

Been meaning to get a quote from my Nokian dealer next time I'm passing by.
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Old 08-30-2014, 05:07 AM   #17
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I actually use 225-40-18 and paid $1080 ish mounted balanced tax etc. It was $255 ish a tire plus tax.

So far so good... We got dumped on with rain last night and they did quite good through standing water, acceleration runs etc. Much better then I thought actually

I wonder if nokian does set pricing for tires. I checked online and at a local shop and it was the same price per tire.
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Old 08-30-2014, 05:22 AM   #18
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Ah should have known you'd be running 18's. So that would drive the price up significantly from the 17's I'd run.

Glad to hear they're at least meeting if not exceeding your expectations so far. I've always had amazing luck with nokians. Only exception was the summer only set I got on the 9k years ago, but things like a blown wheel bearing after 1k miles and a few other variables were probably more at blame than anything.

My Nokian Nordman's will get me through this winter and the DW's I got with the black wagon should get me through next summer. But like I say, 12 months from now I think the WrG3 will be the tire for me!
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Old 09-04-2014, 01:04 PM   #19
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Yea they are a bit more vs the 17's

I looked at the cost of the tires from a local shop and 215-45-17's were just shy of $190 each

Wet grip I think is worse vs the pilot super sports. They seem to spin a lot easier in 3rd gear vs the old super sports and also lock up a lot quicker. I am looking forward to the first dumping of snow so I can see how they work. I also worry how long they will work in the snow. Their is a snow symbol on the tread and when that's gone... they aren's suppose to work so well in the snow/ice.

My viggen broke down on me today, I was on the throttle a bit and hit a dip in the road on the left front which I didn't see. The left drivesahft popped out, hopefully it didn't do any other damage. Trans still shifts gears OK & hopefully no trans damage.....
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Old 09-11-2014, 11:03 AM   #20
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What a mess.... But it's back on the road!!

We believe the ball joint failed.... Causing the main motor mount to snap (if I recall it was a genuine Saab performance mount)... Left drive axel popped out of the Trans and the entire motor/Trans moved to the passenger side a bit.

New engine mount
Control arm and bushing
Cv boot/joint

I need to replace the control arm on the other side.... Its kinda loose but not horrible.

Trans is shifter better then it has for a long time
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